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Discussion Starter #1
My AC is blowing hot.

Compressor is not engaging.
Blower motor works
My pressures are good, again MY PRESSURES ARE GOOD on high and low side. I have gauges, (high side a little low but that will not keep the compressor from kicking on)
Fuses are good
Compressor spins by hand

The AC light is on in the vehicle
I do have switch the fan speed to get it to come on. Sometime the light comes on at speed 1,2,3, or 4 , sometimes only 1,3,4 , sometimes 2,3,4 - weird huh
The AC light does not turn off when I push the button but does turn off and on when I switch fan speeds.

Please help me troubleshoot. My guess is the I m ay have an issue with the resister under the glove box (but my light comes on and the new resistor seems to be the fix if your blower or light does not work)
or could be the low side pressure sensor

What else can it be?
How do troubleshoot these?

I read to put straight 12v to the compressor for just a second with the engine off to see if the compressor clicks (magnet engaging the clutch)
and not sure if I should try this or if there is better way to locate the problem. I would hate to buy a resistor and pressure switch if the compressor is the problem.
 

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Do an ipdm test. key on then press the door switch 10 times... then key off and key back on. The horn should sound letting you know you did it correctly. It will then cycle through all the components controlled by the ipdm. wipers, lights, cooling fans, and the compressor should cycle on regardless of the pressure sensors. Once the wipers turn back on again it completed a full cycle. If the compressor clutch didn't engage then you either have an issue in the a/c circuit (power or ground) or with the a/c clutch internally open. To exit from the ipdm test just cycle the key again. Hope this helps.
 

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The above test, key in run but engine not running. Do NOT start the engine.
 

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I had somewhat of similar symptoms where my AC would not work at certain fan speeds. The AC button light would be on but no cold air unless I change fan speeds. Very random at times. I ended up changing the AC resistor at the passenger/glovebox foot well and it solved the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Do an ipdm test. key on then press the door switch 10 times... then key off and key back on. The horn should sound letting you know you did it correctly. It will then cycle through all the components controlled by the ipdm. wipers, lights, cooling fans, and the compressor should cycle on regardless of the pressure sensors. Once the wipers turn back on again it completed a full cycle. If the compressor clutch didn't engage then you either have an issue in the a/c circuit (power or ground) or with the a/c clutch internally open. To exit from the ipdm test just cycle the key again. Hope this helps.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU. The clutch did not click. Can I put 12v straight from the battery to the compressor to see if the clutch clicks?? That way I can confirm it’s dead or I need to look elsewhere? I was sure the fan would not keep my compressor from engaging,, lol 😂
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Do an ipdm test. key on then press the door switch 10 times... then key off and key back on. The horn should sound letting you know you did it correctly. It will then cycle through all the components controlled by the ipdm. wipers, lights, cooling fans, and the compressor should cycle on regardless of the pressure sensors. Once the wipers turn back on again it completed a full cycle. If the compressor clutch didn't engage then you either have an issue in the a/c circuit (power or ground) or with the a/c clutch internally open. To exit from the ipdm test just cycle the key again. Hope this helps.
Still need help. UPDATE: pressures still good, fan good, NEW resistor and all sports of the fan keep the AC light on. I did the IPDM test and heard not click from the compressor. I re-did the test with volt gauge in the fuse slots for AC comp, and got .3 to .5 volts on occasion , I am guessing that .5 is a signal to activate a relay to send 12 v to the compressor?????? I am guessing. I can’t get the wire off the compressor to see what voltage it is or isn’t getting. Help on tips getting that wire clip by the compressor off and maybe someone may know if getting .5 volts at the fuse is a good or bad thing. I don’t have the money to take this to the shop right now
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Still need help. UPDATE: pressures still good, fan good, NEW resistor and all speeds of the fan keep the AC light on. I did the IPDM test and heard not click from the compressor. I put the volt gauge in the fuse slots for AC comp, and got .9 volts with AC on , I am guessing that .9 is a signal to activate a relay to send 12 v to the compressor?????? I am guessing. I can’t get the wire off the compressor to see what voltage it is or isn’t getting. Help on tips getting that wire clip by the compressor off and maybe someone may know if getting .9 volts at the fuse is a good or bad thing. I don’t have the money to take this to the shop right now
HELP leaving on road trip in a few weeks. Shop want over $100 to diagnose.
 

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Replied to your post in the electrical section; Are your fuses intact in the IPDM/engine bay?
 
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