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Just curious as to what precautions need to be taken when upgrading an alternator for lights, stereo/amp/sub, winch. I am thinking of a nations 270 or 320amp alt. Just upgrading the wiring or what would be recommended? Thanks in advance :)
 

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Just checked out nations starter. Pretty sure there alternators are from DC Power Inc which is a phenomenal company and highly respected in car audio.

Id probably just go ahead and get it from DC power though to cut out the middle man.
https://www.dcpowerinc.com/high-output-alternators.html?make=Nissan&model=Xterra&year=2005&engine=4.0L+V6+VQ40DE

It will take a little bit of time to get since they custom machine everything in house.


As far as precautions, I would definitely upgrade my main battery to the largest possible AGM battery (I personally run a kinetik HC2400 and it just barely fits)
Id also run an additional 1/0 + wire from the alt to your main battery (use tinned OFC wire, such as stinger hpm). And Id also go ahead and do the big 3 grounds in 1/0 as well (Engine to battery (at the very least), frame to battery, and alt case to battery (and body to battery for extra points))
 

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Nice... thanks much for the good to go info!

Not ready yet as I have some other projects that i want to get finished first. Appreciate it!!

Just checked out nations starter. Pretty sure there alternators are from DC Power Inc which is a phenomenal company and highly respected in car audio.

Id probably just go ahead and get it from DC power though to cut out the middle man.
https://www.dcpowerinc.com/high-output-alternators.html?make=Nissan&model=Xterra&year=2005&engine=4.0L+V6+VQ40DE

It will take a little bit of time to get since they custom machine everything in house.


As far as precautions, I would definitely upgrade my main battery to the largest possible AGM battery (I personally run a kinetik HC2400 and it just barely fits)
Id also run an additional 1/0 + wire from the alt to your main battery (use tinned OFC wire, such as stinger hpm). And Id also go ahead and do the big 3 grounds in 1/0 as well (Engine to battery (at the very least), frame to battery, and alt case to battery (and body to battery for extra points))
 

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I'd take caution on grounding battery to anything but the current ground. Just word to wise, our 12v systems use an inline sensor on the current ground to measure battery draw. If you bypass that sensor, they system won't know how much is being drawn out, thus, you won't get the full output of your alt.

CHG-7 of the FSM

Battery current sensor

"The battery current sensor is installed on the battery cable at the negative terminal. The battery current sensor detects the charg- ing/discharging current of the battery and sends a voltage signal to the ECM according to the current value detected"
 

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$600 for an alternator! Holy moly! Why not get a mean green? It's a high out put alternator too and only $400ish


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Not all alternators are created equal. The mean green is most likely just a rewound one in a new stock case with a smaller pulley and it does maybe 200amps at 2k rpm (ive never seen a bench test on one proving it to even do rated so)
As far as the DC units, if you have a need for that power they are worth it. Custom machined to fit much larger diodes and internals and they use 3 different types of winding to fit output needs.


I'd take caution on grounding battery to anything but the current ground. Just word to wise, our 12v systems use an inline sensor on the current ground to measure battery draw. If you bypass that sensor, they system won't know how much is being drawn out, thus, you won't get the full output of your alt.

CHG-7 of the FSM

Battery current sensor

"The battery current sensor is installed on the battery cable at the negative terminal. The battery current sensor detects the charg- ing/discharging current of the battery and sends a voltage signal to the ECM according to the current value detected"
I know the fsm says this, but I ditched mine completely a good while ago after I realized that my 1/0 ground wouldnt fit through it (and then added 3 more)
Im currently running a stereo that is ~7000 watts rms on the stock alt and 4 large batteries and slam on it frequently and have had no problems at all with voltage or lights dimming.
My voltage if anything is higher after taking it out generally is like 14.4 on start and stays around 13.9 after engine gets warm.
I know of one other person to take it out and hes on the frontier forum and hasnt had any issues when i talked to him either.
You will have a SES light though.
 

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So it must think that your always running a full load on the battery.

Just play on the side of caution, because it won't know that the battery has been fully charged if nothing is in use. A normal wet cell (stock) battery will not be able to handle over charging as well as AGM (Absorbed Glass Matt) will.
 

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So it must think that your always running a full load on the battery.

Just play on the side of caution, because it won't know that the battery has been fully charged if nothing is in use. A normal wet cell (stock) battery will not be able to handle over charging as well as AGM (Absorbed Glass Matt) will.
Possibly. Which I mean if the systems up I am.

And yeah, that's true. I seriously doubt he has anywhere near the current draw I've got (sub amp can pull damn near 500a alone) and I've also got 4 batteries all agm so

Anyways, op you could most likely just run a 4 gauge ofc wires from the frame and alternator case (like sand down a little where you bolt it to the truck and put the wire on the bolt) and run those to the grounding point on the engine block. Then from there replace the **** 4gauge factory ground with a nice 2awg ofc ground (2 gauge is somewhat hard to find. Try a welding supply place for it). I believe that the 2awg will fit through the sensor.

That is if you care to keep the sensor.


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