I did mine slightly different than others that I've seen. I attempted to make it look as OEM as I could. It looks pretty good even when the lights are off. I'm really happy with the results.
I initially wanted to 3D print an insert to put into the empty diamonds and install the lights in there. However, I'm new to 3D printing and the shape and odd angles would probably take way more time than I wanted. So instead, I bought a piece of black 1/8" thick acrylic, cut it to shape, and super glued it to the inside of the grille. Basically the same thing I'd 3D print anyway for 1/100th the effort. If I were to do it again, I would find a matte acrylic instead of the glossy that I got.
I wired the lights directly into the F7 fuse, using an Add-a-circuit which means that these lights turn on with the tail lights and "running lights."
There are the lights I used: Oznium flush mount grille lights.
Install steps are below.
But first, the finished product.
Installation steps:
Pull off the grille to attach the acrylic backing and lights. I used an orange construction pencil and paper to rub and find exactly the shape of the diamond's outside edge.
Cut out the shape and transfer to your piece of acrylic. Cut it out. I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel. It worked well but boy does it throw shavings of itchy plastic everywhere!
Attach the acrylic cut outs to the inside of the grille. I used Gorilla super glue and let it set completely with some weight on it. I assume this will hold. It's not like these have a lot of weight or shifting. I'll report back after a few off-road trails.
The lights I bought install with their own screw nut from the backside. Drill the holes starting with a small pilot hole, then using a step bit, up to about 7/16" diameter. Thread the lights through from the front and screw down with the supplied nuts. I didn't use loctite but now I'm wondering if I should. Maybe tomorrow, it's getting late.
Put your grille back in its place but don't secure it quite yet. You want to measure out enough positive and negative wiring. I cut the wires coming from each light such that they can be soldered together and extended with extra wire instead of soldering and splicing 3 times for both positive and negative. For the negative, I added an eyelet connector to the end to go directly to the negative on the battery. It's right where the wires came out from the grille so the additional wire was maybe only 6"of black 16 AWG. For the red positive wire, I added a connector on the end that can be disconnected inside of the fuse box. While I was soldering it up, I realized that if I had created a single piece of wire directly to the fuse, I wouldn't be able to take off the grille. Now, I can disconnect the postive with this connector and disconnect the negative from the battery to remove my grille if I need to. This means that I cut off the end of the Add-a-circuit and added the female connector of the same type.
I didn't want to cut a new hole in the fuse box but I did find a hole in the bottom, probably for drainage, that I slightly enlarged with a drill to fish the positive wire through.
Install the Add-a-circuit into the F7 fuse spot. Use the existing 10A fuse for the tail lights and add an additional fuse, I used 15A because it's what I had on hand, to the extra spot for the new circuit for the lights. I will say, I'm not super happy with this particular Add-a-circuit. The 90* angle of the wire coming off comes into contact with a harness in the fuse box. This makes it very difficult to push the Add-a-circuit all the way in and it doesn't feel completely seated. I'm going to look around for a better one. Luckily, I installed it with a connector so I can swap this out more easily in the future.
Connect the positive to the Add-a-circuit and the negative to the battery terminal, test it out, reattach your grille, and put everything back in its place. Done!
Now I've got to get out on the trail and get some better pics!!!
I initially wanted to 3D print an insert to put into the empty diamonds and install the lights in there. However, I'm new to 3D printing and the shape and odd angles would probably take way more time than I wanted. So instead, I bought a piece of black 1/8" thick acrylic, cut it to shape, and super glued it to the inside of the grille. Basically the same thing I'd 3D print anyway for 1/100th the effort. If I were to do it again, I would find a matte acrylic instead of the glossy that I got.
I wired the lights directly into the F7 fuse, using an Add-a-circuit which means that these lights turn on with the tail lights and "running lights."
There are the lights I used: Oznium flush mount grille lights.
Install steps are below.
But first, the finished product.
Installation steps:
Pull off the grille to attach the acrylic backing and lights. I used an orange construction pencil and paper to rub and find exactly the shape of the diamond's outside edge.
Cut out the shape and transfer to your piece of acrylic. Cut it out. I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel. It worked well but boy does it throw shavings of itchy plastic everywhere!
Attach the acrylic cut outs to the inside of the grille. I used Gorilla super glue and let it set completely with some weight on it. I assume this will hold. It's not like these have a lot of weight or shifting. I'll report back after a few off-road trails.
The lights I bought install with their own screw nut from the backside. Drill the holes starting with a small pilot hole, then using a step bit, up to about 7/16" diameter. Thread the lights through from the front and screw down with the supplied nuts. I didn't use loctite but now I'm wondering if I should. Maybe tomorrow, it's getting late.
Put your grille back in its place but don't secure it quite yet. You want to measure out enough positive and negative wiring. I cut the wires coming from each light such that they can be soldered together and extended with extra wire instead of soldering and splicing 3 times for both positive and negative. For the negative, I added an eyelet connector to the end to go directly to the negative on the battery. It's right where the wires came out from the grille so the additional wire was maybe only 6"of black 16 AWG. For the red positive wire, I added a connector on the end that can be disconnected inside of the fuse box. While I was soldering it up, I realized that if I had created a single piece of wire directly to the fuse, I wouldn't be able to take off the grille. Now, I can disconnect the postive with this connector and disconnect the negative from the battery to remove my grille if I need to. This means that I cut off the end of the Add-a-circuit and added the female connector of the same type.
I didn't want to cut a new hole in the fuse box but I did find a hole in the bottom, probably for drainage, that I slightly enlarged with a drill to fish the positive wire through.
Install the Add-a-circuit into the F7 fuse spot. Use the existing 10A fuse for the tail lights and add an additional fuse, I used 15A because it's what I had on hand, to the extra spot for the new circuit for the lights. I will say, I'm not super happy with this particular Add-a-circuit. The 90* angle of the wire coming off comes into contact with a harness in the fuse box. This makes it very difficult to push the Add-a-circuit all the way in and it doesn't feel completely seated. I'm going to look around for a better one. Luckily, I installed it with a connector so I can swap this out more easily in the future.
Connect the positive to the Add-a-circuit and the negative to the battery terminal, test it out, reattach your grille, and put everything back in its place. Done!
Now I've got to get out on the trail and get some better pics!!!