Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums banner

1 - 20 of 90 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, thanks for having me. I have been reading a lot of threads but can’t seem to pin point my issue.. Nissan Xterra 2006 s with 215000km ..

So I can’t seem to get rid of these lights.... speedometer and tripometer also don’t work... have done the following.

1. Changed front left ABS sensor
2. Checked my battery and alternator to make sure it’s not power issue.
3. Did IPDM-ER test and all is normal
4. Pulled the ABS fuse, left it for 20 min then drove awhile and put it back .. no change
5. Checked break fluid all is good
6. Checked all breaks in front and back + redid pads in front and back
7. I have switched the deffogger relay with the ECM and this caused no change either.
UPDATE
8. I switched IPDM modules with my wifes truck since we both have 2006, didnt change anything... so ruling that out?


I’m stumped at what it could be at this point. I’ve read so many threads but can’t seem to find where to go next... 😓😓😓

My battery tests at 13.32v when running maybe my alternator is going??

Thank you all in advance
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,474 Posts
Mine acted kinda like that when the old white IPDM died. If you have the old version white plastic fuse/relay box, you may want to consider getting the updated black version. A good scanner will find U1000 codes in various places, and I think it's because the IPDM isn't doing a good job providing steady power and they all keep crashing/rebooting and flooding the canbus with garbage. (And the dash is partly just a display for canbus data.)

Other causes could be battery, battery terminals, ground terminals, etc., but it sounds like you've already covered all those bases.

284B7-ZE03B or ZE03C should do it, but I honestly don't know why the C version costs so much more. Both B and C have fewer external relays and dedicated canbus chips compared to the old white versions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Mine acted kinda like that when the old white IPDM died. If you have the old version white plastic fuse/relay box, you may want to consider getting the updated black version. A good scanner will find U1000 codes in various places, and I think it's because the IPDM isn't doing a good job providing steady power and they all keep crashing/rebooting and flooding the canbus with garbage. (And the dash is partly just a display for canbus data.)

Other causes could be battery, battery terminals, ground terminals, etc., but it sounds like you've already covered all those bases.

284B7-ZE03B or ZE03C should do it, but I honestly don't know why the C version costs so much more. Both B and C have fewer external relays and dedicated canbus chips compared to the old white versions.
Hey thanks for the reply!

1. I have the white box... so maybe it could be that but when i do the IPDM test it all acts normal....
2. On my battery I tested at 13.32v ... my friend is telling me that is low for this truck, should be closer to 14v... thoughts? He is saying maybe the alternator is going causing issues
3. Is the replacement pretty easy? everything looks accessible for the hood.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,474 Posts
The IPDM self test that does the lights and fan? I don't think that helps you know if it isn't sending good power to the ecm, tcm, bcm, etc. Getting U1000 in the transmission controller, abs controller, transfer case controller, or others is a good clue that the IPDM isn't keeping them happy. The dash controller is called "meter" on my scanner.

The voltage depends on the charging cycle. Mine shows 14.1v when charging and 13.3-13.5 when not. A bad ground connection at the battery or frame can mess with the current sensor, and that ties into the alternator's voltage regulator somehow. Have you checked the bottom end of the ground cable yet?

An IPDM swap is plug-in easy. All the connections are unique shapes and only fit into the right things. It does help to have needle nose pliers or a blunt screwdriver to help with the lock tabs if you don't have small fingers. You'll want the new cover too, I think it's a bit bigger and also has the correct new fuse and relay labels.

Sometimes a very dead battery or very corroded connection will give similar troubles. It's up to you if you want to keep hunting or risk the $50-300 on the updated IPDM. (I've had good luck with junk yard pulls for cheap, just make sure it's the B or C version.) Your call.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The IPDM self test that does the lights and fan? I don't think that helps you know if it isn't sending good power to the ecm, tcm, bcm, etc. Getting U1000 in the transmission controller, abs controller, transfer case controller, or others is a good clue that the IPDM isn't keeping them happy. The dash controller is called "meter" on my scanner.

The voltage depends on the charging cycle. Mine shows 14.1v when charging and 13.3-13.5 when not. A bad ground connection at the battery or frame can mess with the current sensor, and that ties into the alternator's voltage regulator somehow. Have you checked the bottom end of the ground cable yet?

An IPDM swap is plug-in easy. All the connections are unique shapes and only fit into the right things. It does help to have needle nose pliers or a blunt screwdriver to help with the lock tabs if you don't have small fingers. You'll want the new cover too, I think it's a bit bigger and also has the correct new fuse and relay labels.

Sometimes a very dead battery or very corroded connection will give similar troubles. It's up to you if you want to keep hunting or risk the $50-300 on the updated IPDM. (I've had good luck with junk yard pulls for cheap, just make sure it's the B or C version.) Your call.
thank you again for the prompt response! Ya I did the selft test and figured it is good if its acting normal, but you are very right. I think maybe at this point its best to bring it to a garage and have it scanned for codes, like I said my OBDII module is just the cheap 20$ amazon one so it doesnt seem to give me abs codes.

1. I checked the form IPDM swap looks easy and I can definitely get it done if thats the route I have to take
2.As for my battery it seems fine, I cleaned all the connections. And tests fine..
3. What do you mean by the bottom ground cable? I will go check just need some idea where to find it

Thank you again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,377 Posts
Not sure if this helps - but I have had several dead batteries over the years - my X chews up batteries - and it has never thrown all those lights. Have your battery tested, but I think its something else. The IPDM is most likely suspect.

Having said that, if you wanted to do some trouble shooting before you spend a bunch of dollars - I would see if the VDC / Slip light will reset using the reset procedure for that. Its posted here somewhere - but basically you need to find a nice, flat, smooth surface like a parking lot or empty street - make sure your moving forward perfectly straight - then shut your rig completely off, then start it up and drive straight forward to some speed of like 20mph, WITHOUT TOUCHING THE STEERING AT ALL. If you touch the wheel or the ground is rough enough to pull the wheels from straight at all - it won't work. It sometimes takes a few tries. Anyway, if that resets those two lights, then you might have multiple other problems. If it doesn't - then I would revert back to changing the IPDM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Not sure if this helps - but I have had several dead batteries over the years - my X chews up batteries - and it has never thrown all those lights. Have your battery tested, but I think its something else. The IPDM is most likely suspect.

Having said that, if you wanted to do some trouble shooting before you spend a bunch of dollars - I would see if the VDC / Slip light will reset using the reset procedure for that. Its posted here somewhere - but basically you need to find a nice, flat, smooth surface like a parking lot or empty street - make sure your moving forward perfectly straight - then shut your rig completely off, then start it up and drive straight forward to some speed of like 20mph, WITHOUT TOUCHING THE STEERING AT ALL. If you touch the wheel or the ground is rough enough to pull the wheels from straight at all - it won't work. It sometimes takes a few tries. Anyway, if that resets those two lights, then you might have multiple other problems. If it doesn't - then I would revert back to changing the IPDM.
Thanks for the reply, I will go check up that procedure and see what I get... but this wouldnt remove the ABS, E-brake and 4wd light would it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Throwing in some observations when my alternator went. Yes it did light up slip and brake lights, it also lit up the battery light.
If you start it and measure right away a working alternator will register 18v in open loop and then drop to 14 ish once the ecm enters closed loop.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,474 Posts
3. What do you mean by the bottom ground cable? I will go check just need some idea where to find it

Thank you again!
If you follow the cable from the terminal, through the hall effect sensor, then you should see where it attaches to the frame. (I hesitate to say screw or bolt, turns out I've probably been using the wrong words for years...:facepalm: )

Anyway, there's a good 10 pages or so in the FSM-PG section describing what body/frame grounds are where and for what things. It's good to find them all and make sure that they are still attached, maybe remove and scrub, maybe use some of that anti-ox paste stuff.

You're welcome, and good luck tracking down your gremlins. ;)

Edit: forgot to say that one of the reasons I suspect the IPDM is that the 4WD graphic is completely blank and that's not a common fail mode. My 2 cent bet is you'll see a U1000 in the transfer case controller.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
If you follow the cable from the terminal, through the hall effect sensor, then you should see where it attaches to the frame. (I hesitate to say screw or bolt, turns out I've probably been using the wrong words for years...:facepalm: )

Anyway, there's a good 10 pages or so in the FSM-PG section describing what body/frame grounds are where and for what things. It's good to find them all and make sure that they are still attached, maybe remove and scrub, maybe use some of that anti-ox paste stuff.

You're welcome, and good luck tracking down your gremlins. ;)

Edit: forgot to say that one of the reasons I suspect the IPDM is that the 4WD graphic is completely blank and that's not a common fail mode. My 2 cent bet is you'll see a U1000 in the transfer case controller.
Thank you very much, gonna get on that! Just so odd as everyone else i see with my issues have startup issues, or truck stalls or runs rough, mine is just lighting up but runs fine.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,474 Posts
Good news if you want to risk a junk yard pull... $51 shipped!

It says bcm but it's got the right part number (a B model, 2nd to latest version) and sure looks like the ipdm.

If you found the service manual pdfs, start with fwd.pdf and brc.pdf. But you'll eventually read them all. ;)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Good news if you want to risk a junk yard pull... $51 shipped!

It says bcm but it's got the right part number (a B model, 2nd to latest version) and sure looks like the ipdm.

If you found the service manual pdfs, start with fwd.pdf and brc.pdf. But you'll eventually read them all. ;)
Looks like what I need, worth 51$ to test it out!

Big thanks, hope its this. But the more I read the more I am unsure
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Good news if you want to risk a junk yard pull... $51 shipped!

It says bcm but it's got the right part number (a B model, 2nd to latest version) and sure looks like the ipdm.

If you found the service manual pdfs, start with fwd.pdf and brc.pdf. But you'll eventually read them all. ;)
Well **** he doesnt ship to Canada, back to searching hehe. I been checking local junkyards to see if a titan, pathfinder or xterra would come in with the newer one. Havent found anything yet...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
The IPDM self test that does the lights and fan? I don't think that helps you know if it isn't sending good power to the ecm, tcm, bcm, etc. Getting U1000 in the transmission controller, abs controller, transfer case controller, or others is a good clue that the IPDM isn't keeping them happy. The dash controller is called "meter" on my scanner.

The voltage depends on the charging cycle. Mine shows 14.1v when charging and 13.3-13.5 when not. A bad ground connection at the battery or frame can mess with the current sensor, and that ties into the alternator's voltage regulator somehow. Have you checked the bottom end of the ground cable yet?

An IPDM swap is plug-in easy. All the connections are unique shapes and only fit into the right things. It does help to have needle nose pliers or a blunt screwdriver to help with the lock tabs if you don't have small fingers. You'll want the new cover too, I think it's a bit bigger and also has the correct new fuse and relay labels.

Sometimes a very dead battery or very corroded connection will give similar troubles. It's up to you if you want to keep hunting or risk the $50-300 on the updated IPDM. (I've had good luck with junk yard pulls for cheap, just make sure it's the B or C version.) Your call.
For the IPDM module I saw some people have taken off the relay for the defogger in the back to test... if that works then it means the IPDM module is on its way out... Would love your thoughts on it all
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
UPDATE:

I tired to switch the defogger relay with the ECM... no change at all. Do you need to drive a bit or would the lights go off right away if that was the issue??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
The fog/defrost relay swap was more for a no-start scenario rather than an xmas tree iirc. Any percieved error code would need a while to clear by driving, or disconnecting the battery for a good while. I dont think a code reader can clear U codes if it cant read them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
The fog/defrost relay swap was more for a no-start scenario rather than an xmas tree iirc. Any percieved error code would need a while to clear by driving, or disconnecting the battery for a good while. I dont think a code reader can clear U codes if it cant read them.
Hmm so back to checking all my grounds... really stumped. Gonna try to find a ipdm module locally and try that too
 
1 - 20 of 90 Posts
Top