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[MPS] Rear Side Window Molle for Xterra

FOR SALE 
18K views 84 replies 16 participants last post by  roXterra 
#1 · (Edited)
Rear side window Molle for Xterra
Price and more pictures at www.roXterra.com
14 gauge cold rolled steel, weighs 4 lb -- sand it and paint it yourself -- fits drivers side (label faces inside) or passenger side (label faces outside)
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includes 6 L brackets shown, outer hole has nutsert installed
6 bolts screw into the above nutserts
8 self tapping screws - 2 each in bottom L brackets, 1 in each of the side ones
6 1x1.5 inch steel cutouts for placing on the other side of the plastic to form a strong anchor
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Version 1.0 in use (without side mounts) -- sample use
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History of the Molle, installation tips at the end...

Hardware included
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#29 ·
Tighten bottom L brackets to Molle, align with plastic, mark both holes.
Remove Molle, drill plastic, drill metal tabs with the same hole spacing.
Drive self tapping screw first through the metal tab before it goes behind plastic, to have right sized hole (easier to deal with when it will be behind plastic trim).

Self tapping screw through L bracket, through plastic (pull on the plastic a bit, insert metal behind it), find the hole in metal tab with the tip of the self tapping screw, then the other next to it.

by pulling a lot, he plastic trim will pop out more (you may have to pop out the pillar plastic first), but usually you can just get your fingers and tab behind there without popping it out.
 
#32 ·
We are considering laser cutting them instead of plasma cutting, would that make a difference to anyone?

Someone was interested in a Molle for front door, I think it would interfere with my knee room, but would anyone else like a Molle there too?

Where the Molles have gone this year.

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#33 ·
First Gen 2000-2004 Molles are just around the corner.
Totally different shape of the Molle, but there is a hook spot on the First Gen, in the right spot, on each side...

Plastic "hooks" which don't seem strong enough, but Gen2 hooks fit perfectly into the spots for Gen1, even the bolts fit.
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Gen2 Molles still available too...
 
#35 ·
@Knightak22, I will send you a PM about current Molles.

Only 1 person was interested in front ones, and he didn’t provide details, can you identify the spots where you would like Molles?

And which year is yours too, doors changed a bit after 2010. Picture would help too, here or at roxterra1@gmail.com
 
#38 ·
@Knightak22, I will send you a PM about current Molles.

Only 1 person was interested in front ones, and he didn’t provide details, can you identify the spots where you would like Molles?

And which year is yours too, doors changed a bit after 2010. Picture would help too, here or at roxterra1@gmail.com
Add me as interested in the molle panels for front doors! I’ve got a 2014.
 
#37 ·
Gen1 Molles now available too -- there has been interest.
Needs Gen2 hook (pictured below), I have some at $10 each.
Gen1 only has a plastic piece in place of the metal hook, but the housing insert and the bolt are the same... you just need the metal hook part pictured below from Gen2.

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#39 · (Edited)
Front doors.... 2010-2015.... ok that one will be next.

The last 2 were for a 4Runner Gen 3 (1996-2002) (almost double of Gen2 X), and Subaru Forester 2019-2021 (half of Gen2 X)

-------------------

I have 10 of Gen2 Xterra and 5 of Gen1 Xterra Molles right now, laser cut (they come in a group, laser cuts a 5x10 ft sheet).

I have been painting them too lately for extra $. Sanded, self etching primed, primed, then painted. Black, metallic dark gray, gunmetal gray, aluminum gray.

Still $95 each for bare metal (Gen2 or Gen1). 14 gauge cold rolled steel, weighs 4.2 lb

Sanded top and painted back in the picture.
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Hardware tabs now have laser holes pre-driled for self tapping screws. 2 for bottom, 1 for sides. Use just bottom 2, or all 6.
Nutserts installed,so you just run a stainless screw to hold
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#41 ·
Yes $95 includes shipping. Except Alaska, Hawaii, Puerto Rico, Canada... Canada shipping adds up, better with US pickup just over the border when possible.
I offered painting for $20 and that worked for people who ordered it.

My own (aluminum colored) ones were simply can sprayed after sanding, and they are fine after 10 months. It's dry here though... plus I didn't know how soon I would be repainting a different color.
Now that new Molles are laser cut, I notice the imperfections from mine being plasma cut.

The $20 painting includes grinding, rotary sanding, paint thinner wiping, self etching primer primed (makes paint stick better anywhere, like in the laser cut holes.... over 100 holes, will you get to every single spot with a sand paper?), then primer priming and finally color painting -- which is compressor gun sprayed for black and aluminum gray; or can sprayed for more exotic colors like metallic dark gray and gunmetal gray.

Painting is pretty simple, until things go wrong. When you're fixing that one last flaw or light paint, and then an accident happens and you are not done at all 😀. Unless it's just for yourself, then one may close an eye.

I can do less for less if preferred, if you add up just the spray cans cost, $20 covers just the paint and it's easy to rip up sanding disks on the 100+ holes. I can just sand it, or just sand+etch, or just sand and can spray -- less for less
 
#42 ·
The current project is the Gen2 front door panel, for 2005-2014, I had 2 requests for those since October.
Now for 2015, this area was cut in half because of safety design in the door plastic.

The red cup holder area should be cut out too.
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This is how it looks from the other side, red circles will be screws going through.
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And this is the right way to mount to plastic, a plastic sandwich with metal from both sides, self tapping screws to hold inside of a hole (photo from rear window Molle mounting).
Will buyers want to take the panel off, or risk it with just screws in plastic? For light loads it may work for a while. Glue on the threads may work too.
How to make the plastic mounts one-time thing, but have the Molle be removable with a power tool many times, without effecting the mounts in plastic?
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That screw looks long but it's only 3/4". Any shorter and it's awkward to deal with when you only lift the plastic up a bit and work by feel on the other side...
 
#43 ·
This may work... jack nut.
You drill sheet metal or plastic, use the jack nut tool to hold the screw from the outside, impact driver it inside, the nut pushes against plastic from the other side, and forms a base attached to plastic from both sides. Has anyone tried jack nuts on plastic?
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start at 1:50
 
#45 ·
The door panel Molles are looking great!

I drive a 2015, but I pulled the front door panels from a u-pick 2005 specifically to be able to use full-door Molles. I plan to mount the Molles to the panels first (and maybe replace the window motors/regulators while swapping panels) but I like the idea of being able to remove and remount the Molles with the Jack nuts. :)


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#47 ·
It’s still very much a project-in-progress, unfortunately. :( The ‘05 door panels are tucked away in the garage, the TYC window regulators are in my save-for-later cart on Amazon, and I was trying to decide between maybe getting Hep’s Molle panels shipped up here to Canada or finding a local fabricator to work with 29erClan’s DIY files.

But then I saw your thread about doing door Molles, and seeing how well you’d done the low profile roof rack and window Molle I figured it’d be worth a longer wait to see how yours turned out! :)

Plus I’m kinda stuck waiting anyway with the Canada/US border mostly closed ATM. It’s gonna be a while before I can visit friends in VA and pick up my stack of Xterra stuff from their garage. Or even make the day trip to the friend-of-a-friend in Tonawanda who’s okay with me shipping to his business address.
 
#48 · (Edited)
We have the door panel Molles for sale now,
If you don't have manual windows..... but let us know if you do, we're curious.
2005-2014 front $110
2015 front short $60 (quite short due to the big bulge from side air bags?)
2005-2015 rear $80 (has cutout for upper left corner speaker, you might not have the speaker, but the Molle hole is still there)

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Second picture needs to be replaced with a larger hole one.

Spacers:
I am finalizing the right ones (would be included, 5 per panel)

How do they mount:
Easiest is taking the door pane off, run a screw, have a metal tab (1.5 x 1 inch) to anchor to behind the plastic, the same plastic sandwich as for rear side window Molles.

Better way:
JackNuts, which are not cheap and you have to install them yourself, there is a tool sold but you may do it without a tool.

Worse way: Risk it with self tapping screws anchored in plastic only? I wouldn't try that myself, but if you do, I would like hearing the feedback on it.

Other ways? Let me know
 
#49 ·
Prototypes selling:

I have several sets of the prototypes that fit, not ideally but they fit.

3/8" mounting holes instead of the right sized 1/4" -- so use a washer, or use a bigger screw/bolt.
Some curvature may not be a circle but more oval shape.
Some other imperfections from the laser cuts or adapting to fit.

$60 each, shipped, mounting supplies tbd, some of it will be up to you.
I will have pictures soon if there is interest, I will label them 1 to 10. Let me know if you're interested, that will speed up my picture posting.
 
#50 · (Edited)
These are the prototypes for sale.
They have been sanded with rotary 80 grit, will be a little more, to take off the 218/216/SAT/etc labels
The red line will be cut too, to match the shape of the latest version

These are fronts, 2005-2014 (2015 has a half sized one that only fits, if you have a 2015 that fits a long one, let me know)
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These are rear passenger doors, fits either side (mirror image)
5 and 6 look nicer, 8 has half openings.... could be shaved more off if you prefer
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How to mount these:
1)
up to you to get (this method avoids needing to take off the door panels)
spacers, 1/2 inch to lift it off the plastic
jack nuts to anchor into plastic (without taking off the panel)
jack nut tool ($10) to hold the front as you collapse the back (look it up on Amazon)


or (would need you to take off the door panel)
2)
I can provide: self tapping screws 3/4" long (the only size I have)... not enough room with 1/2" spacers, but with 1/4" spacers they would be long enough... but 1/4" is not much of a spacer
I can provide: 1.5x1 inch tabs to anchor into through the plastic
 
#52 ·
Door panels installed on 2011 Pro-4X,
without removing the door panels
Jack nuts are like rivnuts, but are used when you don't have access to the back of the panel. Post #43 above shows a jack nut. Jacknuts compact and collapse from the back, making a sandwich of the weaker surface going through, plastic or thin sheet metal, in this case plastic door panels.


Installing Jacknuts to hold Door Panel Molles:

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5 on each door of:
3/8" spacers in 10-24 size
10-24 bolts 1.5" length
10-24 Jacknuts
Jacknut tool (holds the Jacknut from turning)

You install like this:
mark holes while holding the Molle on the door. Remove it.
Drill 1/8" hole, then 1/4" then 3/8" (size to be confirmed... all was done in the dark)
insert Jacknut
place the bolt on top of Jacknut tool (run through its hole), then run power tool (or manual screw driver) to make the Jacknut collapse. After the bolt runs out of free threads, you get resistance, that's when you switch to manual screwdriver/ratchet for sure. Keep turning until you get real resistance.
Stop at at that resistance. Jack nut is in place.

Place Molle on the door
spacer behind Molle, locking Nut in front, 1.5" 10-24 bolt goes through

back door
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front door
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#53 ·
Door Molle assembly mounting

Bolt + locking washer, spacer and jack nut on the other side
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3/4", 1" and 1.5" bolts. 3/8" spacer. Jack Nut tool
1" may not be long enough to install (or just enough)
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Different sides of Jack Nut... jack nuts are about $1 each in 10-24 size
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Bolt, locking washer, Molle, spacer, Jack nut (would be collapsed prior to use)
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