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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Yes $95 includes shipping. Except Alaska, Hawaii, Puerto Rico, Canada... Canada shipping adds up, better with US pickup just over the border when possible.
I offered painting for $20 and that worked for people who ordered it.

My own (aluminum colored) ones were simply can sprayed after sanding, and they are fine after 10 months. It's dry here though... plus I didn't know how soon I would be repainting a different color.
Now that new Molles are laser cut, I notice the imperfections from mine being plasma cut.

The $20 painting includes grinding, rotary sanding, paint thinner wiping, self etching primer primed (makes paint stick better anywhere, like in the laser cut holes.... over 100 holes, will you get to every single spot with a sand paper?), then primer priming and finally color painting -- which is compressor gun sprayed for black and aluminum gray; or can sprayed for more exotic colors like metallic dark gray and gunmetal gray.

Painting is pretty simple, until things go wrong. When you're fixing that one last flaw or light paint, and then an accident happens and you are not done at all 馃榾. Unless it's just for yourself, then one may close an eye.

I can do less for less if preferred, if you add up just the spray cans cost, $20 covers just the paint and it's easy to rip up sanding disks on the 100+ holes. I can just sand it, or just sand+etch, or just sand and can spray -- less for less
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
The current project is the Gen2 front door panel, for 2005-2014, I had 2 requests for those since October.
Now for 2015, this area was cut in half because of safety design in the door plastic.

The red cup holder area should be cut out too.
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This is how it looks from the other side, red circles will be screws going through.
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And this is the right way to mount to plastic, a plastic sandwich with metal from both sides, self tapping screws to hold inside of a hole (photo from rear window Molle mounting).
Will buyers want to take the panel off, or risk it with just screws in plastic? For light loads it may work for a while. Glue on the threads may work too.
How to make the plastic mounts one-time thing, but have the Molle be removable with a power tool many times, without effecting the mounts in plastic?
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That screw looks long but it's only 3/4". Any shorter and it's awkward to deal with when you only lift the plastic up a bit and work by feel on the other side...
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
This may work... jack nut.
You drill sheet metal or plastic, use the jack nut tool to hold the screw from the outside, impact driver it inside, the nut pushes against plastic from the other side, and forms a base attached to plastic from both sides. Has anyone tried jack nuts on plastic?
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start at 1:50
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Front and back (driver/passenger) door panel Molles.
Working on Jack Nuts to make on/off easy. Jack Nuts insert once from the outside and hold the nut in plastic, so that your bolt can come in and out.

133163
 

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The door panel Molles are looking great!

I drive a 2015, but I pulled the front door panels from a u-pick 2005 specifically to be able to use full-door Molles. I plan to mount the Molles to the panels first (and maybe replace the window motors/regulators while swapping panels) but I like the idea of being able to remove and remount the Molles with the Jack nuts. :)


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It鈥檚 still very much a project-in-progress, unfortunately. :( The 鈥05 door panels are tucked away in the garage, the TYC window regulators are in my save-for-later cart on Amazon, and I was trying to decide between maybe getting Hep鈥檚 Molle panels shipped up here to Canada or finding a local fabricator to work with 29erClan鈥檚 DIY files.

But then I saw your thread about doing door Molles, and seeing how well you鈥檇 done the low profile roof rack and window Molle I figured it鈥檇 be worth a longer wait to see how yours turned out! :)

Plus I鈥檓 kinda stuck waiting anyway with the Canada/US border mostly closed ATM. It鈥檚 gonna be a while before I can visit friends in VA and pick up my stack of Xterra stuff from their garage. Or even make the day trip to the friend-of-a-friend in Tonawanda who鈥檚 okay with me shipping to his business address.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
We have the door panel Molles for sale now,
If you don't have manual windows..... but let us know if you do, we're curious.
2005-2014 front $110
2015 front short $60 (quite short due to the big bulge from side air bags?)
2005-2015 rear $80 (has cutout for upper left corner speaker, you might not have the speaker, but the Molle hole is still there)

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Second picture needs to be replaced with a larger hole one.

Spacers:
I am finalizing the right ones (would be included, 5 per panel)

How do they mount:
Easiest is taking the door pane off, run a screw, have a metal tab (1.5 x 1 inch) to anchor to behind the plastic, the same plastic sandwich as for rear side window Molles.

Better way:
JackNuts, which are not cheap and you have to install them yourself, there is a tool sold but you may do it without a tool.

Worse way: Risk it with self tapping screws anchored in plastic only? I wouldn't try that myself, but if you do, I would like hearing the feedback on it.

Other ways? Let me know
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Prototypes selling:

I have several sets of the prototypes that fit, not ideally but they fit.

3/8" mounting holes instead of the right sized 1/4" -- so use a washer, or use a bigger screw/bolt.
Some curvature may not be a circle but more oval shape.
Some other imperfections from the laser cuts or adapting to fit.

$60 each, shipped, mounting supplies tbd, some of it will be up to you.
I will have pictures soon if there is interest, I will label them 1 to 10. Let me know if you're interested, that will speed up my picture posting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 · (Edited)
These are the prototypes for sale.
They have been sanded with rotary 80 grit, will be a little more, to take off the 218/216/SAT/etc labels
The red line will be cut too, to match the shape of the latest version

These are fronts, 2005-2014 (2015 has a half sized one that only fits, if you have a 2015 that fits a long one, let me know)
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These are rear passenger doors, fits either side (mirror image)
5 and 6 look nicer, 8 has half openings.... could be shaved more off if you prefer
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How to mount these:
1)
up to you to get (this method avoids needing to take off the door panels)
spacers, 1/2 inch to lift it off the plastic
jack nuts to anchor into plastic (without taking off the panel)
jack nut tool ($10) to hold the front as you collapse the back (look it up on Amazon)


or (would need you to take off the door panel)
2)
I can provide: self tapping screws 3/4" long (the only size I have)... not enough room with 1/2" spacers, but with 1/4" spacers they would be long enough... but 1/4" is not much of a spacer
I can provide: 1.5x1 inch tabs to anchor into through the plastic
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Door panels installed on 2011 Pro-4X,
without removing the door panels
Jack nuts are like rivnuts, but are used when you don't have access to the back of the panel. Post #43 above shows a jack nut. Jacknuts compact and collapse from the back, making a sandwich of the weaker surface going through, plastic or thin sheet metal, in this case plastic door panels.


Installing Jacknuts to hold Door Panel Molles:

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5 on each door of:
3/8" spacers in 10-24 size
10-24 bolts 1.5" length
10-24 Jacknuts
Jacknut tool (holds the Jacknut from turning)

You install like this:
mark holes while holding the Molle on the door. Remove it.
Drill 1/8" hole, then 1/4" then 3/8" (size to be confirmed... all was done in the dark)
insert Jacknut
place the bolt on top of Jacknut tool (run through its hole), then run power tool (or manual screw driver) to make the Jacknut collapse. After the bolt runs out of free threads, you get resistance, that's when you switch to manual screwdriver/ratchet for sure. Keep turning until you get real resistance.
Stop at at that resistance. Jack nut is in place.

Place Molle on the door
spacer behind Molle, locking Nut in front, 1.5" 10-24 bolt goes through

back door
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front door
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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Door Molle assembly mounting

Bolt + locking washer, spacer and jack nut on the other side
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3/4", 1" and 1.5" bolts. 3/8" spacer. Jack Nut tool
1" may not be long enough to install (or just enough)
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Different sides of Jack Nut... jack nuts are about $1 each in 10-24 size
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Bolt, locking washer, Molle, spacer, Jack nut (would be collapsed prior to use)
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2014 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x (Super Black)
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Got my door molle panels from Robert a while back and just getting around to posting about it. I鈥檝e put a thousand miles or so on my X since the install and they鈥檙e super solid and whisper quiet! Got some random pouches from Amazon and playing around with the setup but they really help with added interior storage/organization. Specifically excited about adding the water bottle holders for rear passengers.




Bonus pic!
If you pick up in person and plan accordingly Robert may hit some trails with you!




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Question on driver's side rear window panel.
Can you hit sheet metal with the bottom bracket screws, or are you depending on the plastic?
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
There is a picture of mounting parts far above in this thread, and there are 1.5x1 inch steel tabs included, pre drilled, for mounting steel Molle to steel piece with plastic trim in between.

Car steel is too far but with 3鈥 screws you would hit steel in some places. Ours are just 0.75 inch self tapping screws which anchor in the included steel piece behind the plastic.

134240



Question on driver's side rear window panel.
Can you hit sheet metal with the bottom bracket screws, or are you depending on the plastic?
 

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There is a picture of mounting parts far above in this thread, and there are 1.5x1 inch steel tabs included, pre drilled, for mounting steel Molle to steel piece with plastic trim in between.

Car steel is too far but with 3鈥 screws you would hit steel in some places. Ours are just 0.75 inch self tapping screws which anchor in the included steel piece behind the plastic.

View attachment 134240
Thanks.
Yep, I'm schooled up on the method for plastic. I knew there was a ledge of sheet metal back there under the plastic, but couldn't remember how far away it was.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Specifically for the bottom I don鈥檛 know but within a week I should have time to try it, not on mine...

The steel tabs did the job well. On 4Runner Gen3, 2.5 inch long 5/16 self tapping screws anchored top and bottom, but it鈥檚 different geometry and no top hook.
 
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