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Discussion Starter #41
Yes $95 includes shipping. Except Alaska, Hawaii, Puerto Rico, Canada... Canada shipping adds up, better with US pickup just over the border when possible.
I offered painting for $20 and that worked for people who ordered it.

My own (aluminum colored) ones were simply can sprayed after sanding, and they are fine after 10 months. It's dry here though... plus I didn't know how soon I would be repainting a different color.
Now that new Molles are laser cut, I notice the imperfections from mine being plasma cut.

The $20 painting includes grinding, rotary sanding, paint thinner wiping, self etching primer primed (makes paint stick better anywhere, like in the laser cut holes.... over 100 holes, will you get to every single spot with a sand paper?), then primer priming and finally color painting -- which is compressor gun sprayed for black and aluminum gray; or can sprayed for more exotic colors like metallic dark gray and gunmetal gray.

Painting is pretty simple, until things go wrong. When you're fixing that one last flaw or light paint, and then an accident happens and you are not done at all 馃榾. Unless it's just for yourself, then one may close an eye.

I can do less for less if preferred, if you add up just the spray cans cost, $20 covers just the paint and it's easy to rip up sanding disks on the 100+ holes. I can just sand it, or just sand+etch, or just sand and can spray -- less for less
 

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Joined
798 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
The current project is the Gen2 front door panel, for 2005-2014, I had 2 requests for those since October.
Now for 2015, this area was cut in half because of safety design in the door plastic.

The red cup holder area should be cut out too.
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This is how it looks from the other side, red circles will be screws going through.
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And this is the right way to mount to plastic, a plastic sandwich with metal from both sides, self tapping screws to hold inside of a hole (photo from rear window Molle mounting).
Will buyers want to take the panel off, or risk it with just screws in plastic? For light loads it may work for a while. Glue on the threads may work too.
How to make the plastic mounts one-time thing, but have the Molle be removable with a power tool many times, without effecting the mounts in plastic?
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That screw looks long but it's only 3/4". Any shorter and it's awkward to deal with when you only lift the plastic up a bit and work by feel on the other side...
 

Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #43
This may work... jack nut.
You drill sheet metal or plastic, use the jack nut tool to hold the screw from the outside, impact driver it inside, the nut pushes against plastic from the other side, and forms a base attached to plastic from both sides. Has anyone tried jack nuts on plastic?
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start at 1:50
 
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