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Why not just stand on top of the rear tire?
you could do that ... but I believe the ladder is more of the people who also have a aftermarket ladder rack that you could actually walk on.. or if you have a tent on the roof you could work on it..
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
First 2 ladders (identical), 2 inches narrower in width from before, and 1” thickness throughout
Automotive tire Bumper Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Fender

One is going to Washington state, the other is my demo. Both are getting powder coated.

If there is enough interest, these will need to be ordered with 10 buyers at a time.

passenger side only, future driver side would depend on interest. I want to try passenger side one day (both at once) but I will have to wait too.

does it fit with a swing arm?
Anyone in Tucson/Phoenix with a swing arm to let me test? Or just a steel bumper like Shrockworks?
Some adjustment many be needed for that

$400 powder coated, or
$360 for bare metal
$40 shipping

Easier thought than done, the bending without a computer aided bender made these 2 solid 3 days’ work of effort but the groundwork and a jig are now laid out, hopefully there will be interest, so this wasn’t just an expensive learning exercise.

does anyone know if Gen2 ladder can fit Gen1 too?

anyone painted a ladder before? Did it work well? Bedliner that’s not too coarse perhaps? In case powder coat alternative is needed
 

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$400 powder coated, or
$360 for bare metal
$40 shipping

anyone painted a ladder before? Did it work well? Bedliner that’s not too coarse perhaps? In case powder coat alternative is needed
I've painted other parts and they can turn out ok, but if you factor in the cost of the paint and the time needed to make it look good... $40 for powder coat is a no-brainer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Sand blasting alone is $40+ at pro shops (we use pro shops for powder coating) and dealing with steel welds makes sand blasting a better choice (curvature of welds especially). Sanding by hand is not as penetrating as sand blasting, and it’s all about the prep that determines how the paint/powder sticks.

I've painted other parts and they can turn out ok, but if you factor in the cost of the paint and the time needed to make it look good... $40 for powder coat is a no-brainer.
 

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I'm sure this is a long shot, but any chance you could do some in aluminum? I'm in the rust belt and do not have a ladder as I want to avoid rust as much as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Aluminum round tubing is a lot less common, I have not seen anyone in town who has it (and thick enough). Square tubing is common, round not so much, probably because it's not as cost efficient or in demand.
Not being available increases the cost of getting it, and selling price. ( can get steel in seconds, 2 places at least, 20ft vs the 12ft and 16ft aluminum which costs more than steel in 20ft, if available)
Aluminum would need to be thicker than the 3/32 or 1/8 steel thickness. Like 3/16. If it was a load only carrying ladder (under 50 lb) that would be easier, but to be stepped on (and have 250lb carrying ability), it needs 3/16.
Finding a supply and having 10 people ready to pay for aluminum would help.

Where is your area of rust concern? hidden parts or visible ones?
The wrap around the door lips has to be steel (one separate bracket on each end), aluminum doesn't bend like that and stay strong, it's a half circle shape with a tight radius.
That bolts to the ladder+brackets single piece which could be aluminum if it was cost effective (and demanded by buyers).

I'm sure this is a long shot, but any chance you could do some in aluminum? I'm in the rust belt and do not have a ladder as I want to avoid rust as much as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Stainless steel (which can be painted, powder coated), that would be different
Harder to bend than normal steel (so fabrication costs more), has its own stubborn behavior especially when welding, it likes to 'spring' rather than 'stay' or bend like normal steel would. And stainless prices have multiplied by 4 in the last 2 years, already costing more than regular steel in first place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Powder coated rack is ready
2” narrower than first model, 1” tubing everywhere
Weighs in at 12.65lb after being powder coated (the detachable top and bottom brackets a little more)
Automotive parking light Automotive tail & brake light Car Automotive side marker light Land vehicle


Are 2 ladders better?
It needs to be a mirror image on the left to look right
Automotive parking light Automotive tail & brake light Wheel Automotive side marker light Tire
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Hold on to the ladder bar when opening, pull on the ladder to open hatch
Automotive tail & brake light Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Grille


hold on to flat bottom when closing, better then fingerprints on car paint
Pulling on the ladder afterwards will let you know if hatch closed right.
Vehicle Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Wheel
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Width scale showing with Rotopax
Not the right place for a gas can for me, maybe water, but it’s good to have options.
Automotive tail & brake light Car Automotive carrying rack Tire Vehicle


Ladder single piece, mounts to top and bottom brackets.
Same width top to bottom, camera wide angle distorts a little
Automotive parking light Tire Automotive tail & brake light Vehicle Automotive lighting
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Top bracket is a round wraparound. Padded by a rubber trim.
Bottom is a right angle clamp between brackets, again with (supplied) rubber trim padding.

You can see a hint of the top bracket curvature. I will take side/back view photos, and the rubber trim.

Rubber trim has embedded steel “staples” for tighter hold. Hand push it on or use a mallet, it makes nice contact and has a ribbed edge.

Bottom clamps and tightens with 4 bolts

This looks very interesting
so it gets mounted to the trim/lip of the door like it gets sandwiched on the top and bottom
 

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Really appreciate the response! I totally understand about the workability and prices of other materials. What would a stainless steel ladder cost if material prices are 4-5x higher and labor is more difficult? $800? $1,600?

I might need to fab something out of unistrut or something lol.

Stainless steel (which can be painted, powder coated), that would be different
Harder to bend than normal steel (so fabrication costs more), has its own stubborn behavior especially when welding, it likes to 'spring' rather than 'stay' or bend like normal steel would. And stainless prices have multiplied by 4 in the last 2 years, already costing more than regular steel in first place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Just a mirror image for same ladder (same shop) makes them treat it like a new product.

Stainless steel is twice as tough and feels 4X as tough as regular. (2 on paper feels like 4 in practice)
I just had to enlarge the holes with a file and drill from being laser cut and this thin 20 gauge stainless was giving a big fight, sparks all over and nothing to show for progress. Sharpened not cut edges.

Wood Temperature Gas Tints and shades Auto part


You would have to locate the material first. Right bender person. Right bender tool. Right die for the tube. I get hard enough process with regular steel.
 

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Saw the roXterra ladder in person today. Very, very nice. The powdercoating and welds look solid as well as the design. You can tell a lot of thought went into this ladder. Also was able to compare the equivalent Gobi ladder side by side with the roXterra ladder. The roXterra version is slightly wider and more usable (lucky to put one foot per step on the Gobi which means you don't have a stable platform to load the rack when you are on the ladder) and just looks better! The Gobi is more decorative than functional to me. I haven't yet decided whether I want a ladder but would not even consider the Gobi after seeing the roXterra.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Thank you @Argan! Yes make sure the tool is the right kind of tool.
I went back and forth about having a rear tire carrier. Super cool, very useful. Downside? Opening the hatch 20 times a day on many days. Room behind car needed to open.

Ladder benefits for me:
  • Looks cool (not a benefit)
  • Hatch door openinclosing, and controlling it with ladder on - I don’t want a hatch door without a ladder anymore
  • actually using it for climbing - should be primary reason for most
  • garage door accidents - I had many teeth clenching accidents before — how badly did I scratch the car paint this time on e garage door handle/metal? Oh I scratched the ladder too but you can repaint the whole ladder for a lot less than the hatch door (worst case)
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Negatives?
You will need heavier hatch struts.
145lb is factory strength.
175lb from McMaster (USA made struts) are a good choice. Anyone with a link to these or other 175lb or so hatch struts? Mine are separate struts with M8 ball mounts on each end (I called my order in with TheNewX listed part numbers but I can’t find the thread anymore)

After a couple of weeks with a very eager hatch door (with a ladder) the struts will settle. Colder temps help it settle faster. Arizona summer is not the quickest for settling.
 

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I received my ladder from Robert and was able to install it today. First impressions out of the box:

Clean welds
Perfect powder coating
Minimal parts

There are no instructions, but, having talked to Robert and looking at this thread, the installation was pretty intuitive, and took about 30 minutes

I admit the bottom bracket made me scratch my head a little bit, but, I figured it

The ladder feels really solid, and I have no doubt it will allow me to access the top rack of my X easier. As always, Robert is fantastic with his communications and customer service.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

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Discussion Starter · #40 · (Edited)
Thank you @Skypig for the review and solving the puzzle! I will have instructions within a day, with pictures, so that it can be a 5 minute process, that is my goal. I already took photos of the steps earlier today.

Do you find the ladder beneficial in controlling the hatch door motion?
 
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