You will need to access the Wiring Harness at the Differential Lock Control Unit (DLCU). It may be easier to do this by removing the Driver-side Door Seal and the Knee Knocker Panel under the Steering Column.
Perform the changes on This Schematic. Due to new security standards at Google, I may have to grant access. It's been hit and miss whether I have to do this. Operating Instructions and Warnings are on the Schematic.
It allows anytime engagement of the factory installed M226 eLocker in 2HI and 4HI, without the 4 mph limit, without the associated warning lights, extra switches, and extra wiring of the 2005 Off Road Magazine / "Austin Mod". You will still use your factor Diff Lock switch and have indication on your factory Diff Lock indicator.
FOR THE PLUG N PLAY MOD.....
It installs in under two minutes, or as fast as thirty seconds (per some reviews).
It consists of locating the Differential Lock Control Unit (DLCU), near the hood release on Xterra's and Frontier's, near the rear bulkhead near the jack on 2nd gen Titans (not compatible with diesel Titans), unplugging the factory wiring harness from the DLCU, plugging this unit into the DLCU, and plugging the factory harness back into the included unit. Included instructions here.
This modification gives you the ability to lock the rear differential anytime as with with ARB Air Locker and Eaton E Locker. If you are uncertain about when to lock the differential, refer to the factory parameters of 4LO and under 5 MPH.
ENGAGING THE LOCKER UNDER THE WRONG CIRCUMSTANCES CAN LEAD TO DRIVE TRAIN DAMAGE
The price is $130, shipping included in price to lower 48, USPS Priority Class, including tracking information.
Trust him, it works. Did this mod in about 15 mins. DLCU harness is kind of awkward to work on even with the lower steering column removed but it's easily doable....just uncomfortable when stripping and crimping.
Locks and unlocks within seconds, no more blinky while engaging/disengaging but who cares. Once that light comes on solid, carry on over the obstacle.
Thanks for doing the dirty work figuring this one out!!
I know this is an old post but I am acutally looking into doing this mod this weekend. However I am not a big electrical guy and the 5 or six threads I have read discussing this didn't really answer this question for me soooooo:
Since you don't cut wires on pins 1 and 3 and you are splicing pin 22 and pin 11 respectively to these wires, did you use a simple T-tap to acomplish this? This is currently my plan but I want to make sure there is no gotchas due to things like road vibration (found a article cautioning againts wire nuts for this reason).
All I did was get some small butt connectors, cut the wires, twisted one end of 1 and one end of 22 together, then put the other end of 1 into the other side of the butt connector (makes sense right?). Same with the other splice. Been a long time now with no issues but I made sure to get a good crimp on the wires. T tap will work perfect.
Thank your sir. I think I will do T-taps mainly because I like the simplicity and the fact that it looks like a clean wiring job. Of course on youtube they showed you with dummy wires on a desk, for this mod I will be working under the dash so hopefully I can also do it as cleanly
when i got mine done. I just took some wire strippers and pulled back some of the rubber back. then i took a little awl tool and made a hole. I then put the new wire into the hole, wrapped the wires around each other, black taped it and then wrapped a zip tie around it. so you can say it's a T tap but more reliable cause it's more solid connection that doesn't come loose.
-sass
As cool as this sounds I think this is above my skill level. I think I would have to get some dummy wire and practice over and over before I could do this respectably working under a dash. But thank you for sharing how you acomplished the mod.
can anyone comment as to what the actual wire size is on the wires to the DLCU? The print on the wire isn't legible and I want to make sure to use the right size connectors.
heh I was about to post never mind, I ended up using the wire strippers to measure them.....they are 18 gauge........and I have have completed the locker by pass .
I may have spoke to soon I think I have other issues with my locker which I just posted in the drivetrain part of the board. But I have a high degree of confidence I did the by pass correctly.
Was probably my first mod, I was a broke ass and it was free. Happy to say it has survived Badlands and UP overland without any issues. Sorry to hear your having issues Snowjunkie.
Yeah it looks like its just a sensor problem but the selector switch is in fact locking and unlocking so the locker works and the bypass works. I will look more into the sensor issue after my TSF run coming up this weekend.
Once the bypass has been completed, does the vdc turn off automatically once you engage the locker or do you have to manually switch off the vdc, and if the vdc can stay on whilst the diff is locked is it still effective or even work?
The mod does not effect any other system. The DLCU is by passed and unaware of any locker operation. I usually have the VDC off due to my lift so I can not tell you how your vehicle will react / perform.
So apologies but - what's the point of this mod? If I understand correctly there's a switch for the locking rear diff, right? Why would you want to override it? Wouldn't you just switch it on, and when done, switch it off?
Just curious because I want to do this, just cause I can and I love tinkering with this stuff - just not sure I follow a) the point and b) the benefits?
the system only allows you to lock the diff in 4lo....this mod lets u lock it anytime u want....2wd locker is awesome fun in snow... Posted via Mobile Device
Ahh I got ya. I remember the sales guy told me to only use it when stuck. If you remove the lock, when else would you use it? Other than playing around in the snow
The rest of the systems (ABS, VDC, courtesy light(kidding)) are no longer "aware" of locker use with this mod. Per the wiring changes, the systems always think the locker is disengaged. This is the advantage over the first mod method of manual locker engagement, where the systems saw locker engagement out of parameter and threw warnings.
no, while it could cause premature wear on the selector fork that engages/disengages the locker, it will not cause you to fly out of control if its accidentally turned on or left on while driving down the highway. as long as you aren't going around a corner, it will not affect driveability
I wasn't worried so much about being locked at speed, I'm worried about locking it at speed.
Functionally, it would be really nice to flip it on/off without stopping as you approached a obstacle where you think you might need it. Stock, the electronics won't let it change until you stop (or at least slow way down). Does this mod bypass that limitation as well, or just the 4lo limitation?
Will locking it while moving cause a problem? Does this mod allow you to?
The mod gives you direct, ungoverned control over the locker. If there is not instant engage upon switch actuation, it is because things are still aligning to engage in the differential and a little "differential rotation" is necessary before lock up, no different than stock configuration. If the locker does not disengage immediately upon switch actuation it is because there may be some torsional stress in the locker and things are a little bound. Usually some easy s turns will give it its happy place and it will disengage. Or I just turn it off and mind it and it usually disengages soon after (seconds).
Yes, you can flip the switch approaching an obstacle, not worrying about transfer case configuration or wheel speed, conquer, and disengage.
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