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You will need to access the Wiring Harness at the Differential Lock Control Unit (DLCU). It may be easier to do this by removing the Driver-side Door Seal and the Knee Knocker Panel under the Steering Column.

Perform the changes on This Schematic. Operating Instructions and Warnings are on the Schematic.

It allows anytime engagement of the factory installed M226 eLocker in 2HI and 4HI, without the 4 mph limit, without the associated warning lights, extra switches, and extra wiring of the 2005 Off Road Magazine / "Austin Mod". You will still use your factor Diff Lock switch and have indication on your factory Diff Lock indicator.

It installs in under two minutes, or as fast as thirty seconds (per some reviews).

It consists of locating the Differential Lock Control Unit (DLCU), near the hood release on Xterra's and Frontier's, near the rear bulkhead near the jack on gas Titans (not compatible with diesel Titans), unplugging the factory wiring harness from the DLCU, plugging this unit into the DLCU, and plugging the factory harness back into the included unit. Included instructions here.

This modification gives you the ability to lock the rear differential anytime as with with ARB Air Locker and Eaton E Locker. If you are uncertain about when to lock the differential, refer to the factory parameters of 4LO and under 5 MPH.

ENGAGING THE LOCKER UNDER THE WRONG CIRCUMSTANCES CAN LEAD TO DRIVE TRAIN DAMAGE

Shipping included in price to lower 48, USPS Priority Class, including tracking information.

Units are built on demand. Current wait is 4-6 weeks. No pre purchase necessary to get on the waiting list. I will notify you for payment when I have a unit for you, ready to go.

THE LIST
 

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Trust him, it works. Did this mod in about 15 mins. DLCU harness is kind of awkward to work on even with the lower steering column removed but it's easily doable....just uncomfortable when stripping and crimping.

Locks and unlocks within seconds, no more blinky while engaging/disengaging but who cares. Once that light comes on solid, carry on over the obstacle.

Thanks for doing the dirty work figuring this one out!!
 

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I know this is an old post but I am acutally looking into doing this mod this weekend. However I am not a big electrical guy and the 5 or six threads I have read discussing this didn't really answer this question for me soooooo:

Since you don't cut wires on pins 1 and 3 and you are splicing pin 22 and pin 11 respectively to these wires, did you use a simple T-tap to acomplish this? This is currently my plan but I want to make sure there is no gotchas due to things like road vibration (found a article cautioning againts wire nuts for this reason).

Thanks in advance for any answers.
 

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All I did was get some small butt connectors, cut the wires, twisted one end of 1 and one end of 22 together, then put the other end of 1 into the other side of the butt connector (makes sense right?). Same with the other splice. Been a long time now with no issues but I made sure to get a good crimp on the wires. T tap will work perfect.

-----{}=== like that
 

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when i got mine done. I just took some wire strippers and pulled back some of the rubber back. then i took a little awl tool and made a hole. I then put the new wire into the hole, wrapped the wires around each other, black taped it and then wrapped a zip tie around it. so you can say it's a T tap but more reliable cause it's more solid connection that doesn't come loose.
-sass
 

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All I did was get some small butt connectors, cut the wires, twisted one end of 1 and one end of 22 together, then put the other end of 1 into the other side of the butt connector (makes sense right?). Same with the other splice. Been a long time now with no issues but I made sure to get a good crimp on the wires. T tap will work perfect.

-----{}=== like that


Thank your sir. I think I will do T-taps mainly because I like the simplicity and the fact that it looks like a clean wiring job. Of course on youtube they showed you with dummy wires on a desk, for this mod I will be working under the dash so hopefully I can also do it as cleanly :p
 

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when i got mine done. I just took some wire strippers and pulled back some of the rubber back. then i took a little awl tool and made a hole. I then put the new wire into the hole, wrapped the wires around each other, black taped it and then wrapped a zip tie around it. so you can say it's a T tap but more reliable cause it's more solid connection that doesn't come loose.
-sass

As cool as this sounds I think this is above my skill level. I think I would have to get some dummy wire and practice over and over before I could do this respectably working under a dash. But thank you for sharing how you acomplished the mod.
 

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Was probably my first mod, I was a broke ass and it was free. Happy to say it has survived Badlands and UP overland without any issues. Sorry to hear your having issues Snowjunkie.
 

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How exactly does this mod effect the vdc system?

Once the bypass has been completed, does the vdc turn off automatically once you engage the locker or do you have to manually switch off the vdc, and if the vdc can stay on whilst the diff is locked is it still effective or even work?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
How exactly does this mod effect the vdc system?

Once the bypass has been completed, does the vdc turn off automatically once you engage the locker or do you have to manually switch off the vdc, and if the vdc can stay on whilst the diff is locked is it still effective or even work?
The mod does not effect any other system. The DLCU is by passed and unaware of any locker operation. I usually have the VDC off due to my lift so I can not tell you how your vehicle will react / perform.
 

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The mod does not effect any other system. The DLCU is by passed and unaware of any locker operation. I usually have the VDC off due to my lift so I can not tell you how your vehicle will react / perform.
Exactly what I wanted to know, thank you.
 
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