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I picked up a Hella FF75 Driving Light Kit from Summit for about $80. I liked the Low Profile of the FF75 and thought that they really wouldn't stick above the top of Rack. I also picked up some Horizontal Mighty Mounts, (29H... I think). According the Yakima Catalog, they're only supposed to work for the First Gens. However, I was able to grind down the Spacer Tab between the Clamps of each Bracket and they fit nice and tight.
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What you also see in the picture above are some Brackets that I cut out of 1/8 inch Aluminum. The dimensions were 1-3/16 x 5". I drilled a hole for the bolt on the Might Mounts and another hole of the same size as the hole in the Light Bracket. I also sanded and painted the Aluminum Brackets.
I decided to run both the of the Positive Wires for the Lights down the Passenger-side of the Rig. I took apart the Rear Roof Crossbar, (I had to slide it back from the Factory Position anyway), and drilled holes in the underside of the hollow Crossbar, so that I could run the Positive Wire from the Drivers-side Light over to the Passenger-Side and have a slightly cleaner look. I put some Silicone around the Wire leading into the holes.
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I grounded each of the Lights to the Rear Hatch Shock Bracket.
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There is a small recess in the Rear Roof Line leading to the Rear Hatch the seems to coincide with the Factory Roof Rack Channels. There is just enough room to run Wiring down there, and Wires won't be pinched when you open the Hatch. You may be able to see the screw holding the Harness against the Base of the Roof Crossbar. I picked up some 1/4 inch Plastic Wiring Clamps and secured them with Sheet Metal Screws. I also used these when running the Wiring Harness down into the Bumper. All of the Plastic Clamps I could find at the stores were White Nylon, so I took a piece of Sandpaper to them and sprayed them Black.
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I ran the Positive Wires down the Passenger-side. If you run it just to the right of where the Hatch Shock lays down, it won't interfere with the Hatch at all. I used a Die Grinder to grind a small notch in the top of the Plastic Tail Light Assembly and ran the Harness down into the Assembly and then down behind the Bumper.
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After you run your Harness over the Rear Axle there is a large Wiring Harness the runs the length of the Frame Rail and up to the Engine Compartment that you can Zip-tie to.
Finished Product:
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I ended up using about another 15 feet of Wire than what comes with the Kit, as well as some various Connectors. This Kit did not come with a Fuse, so I picked up one of those just to be safe.
Here's a night shot. I still need to adjust the lights, as they are aimed WAY too low.
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Anyway... If someone is interested in trying this, I've still got two Might Mounts left over. PM me if interested.
What you also see in the picture above are some Brackets that I cut out of 1/8 inch Aluminum. The dimensions were 1-3/16 x 5". I drilled a hole for the bolt on the Might Mounts and another hole of the same size as the hole in the Light Bracket. I also sanded and painted the Aluminum Brackets.
I decided to run both the of the Positive Wires for the Lights down the Passenger-side of the Rig. I took apart the Rear Roof Crossbar, (I had to slide it back from the Factory Position anyway), and drilled holes in the underside of the hollow Crossbar, so that I could run the Positive Wire from the Drivers-side Light over to the Passenger-Side and have a slightly cleaner look. I put some Silicone around the Wire leading into the holes.
I grounded each of the Lights to the Rear Hatch Shock Bracket.
There is a small recess in the Rear Roof Line leading to the Rear Hatch the seems to coincide with the Factory Roof Rack Channels. There is just enough room to run Wiring down there, and Wires won't be pinched when you open the Hatch. You may be able to see the screw holding the Harness against the Base of the Roof Crossbar. I picked up some 1/4 inch Plastic Wiring Clamps and secured them with Sheet Metal Screws. I also used these when running the Wiring Harness down into the Bumper. All of the Plastic Clamps I could find at the stores were White Nylon, so I took a piece of Sandpaper to them and sprayed them Black.
I ran the Positive Wires down the Passenger-side. If you run it just to the right of where the Hatch Shock lays down, it won't interfere with the Hatch at all. I used a Die Grinder to grind a small notch in the top of the Plastic Tail Light Assembly and ran the Harness down into the Assembly and then down behind the Bumper.
After you run your Harness over the Rear Axle there is a large Wiring Harness the runs the length of the Frame Rail and up to the Engine Compartment that you can Zip-tie to.
Finished Product:
I ended up using about another 15 feet of Wire than what comes with the Kit, as well as some various Connectors. This Kit did not come with a Fuse, so I picked up one of those just to be safe.
Here's a night shot. I still need to adjust the lights, as they are aimed WAY too low.
Anyway... If someone is interested in trying this, I've still got two Might Mounts left over. PM me if interested.
