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Discussion Starter #1
I'm finally ready to install the deaver mini pack after being back ordered for a couple of weeks but think I'm missing parts. Is there supposed to be bolts that hold the deavers to the stock leafs?

Has anyone had a hard time breaking loose the lower shock mounts? I have an air hammer thats sweating.
 

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there should be a new center pin that inserts into the hole in the middle of the deaver pack and also will replace the pin in the stock pack. that was the only bolt that came with my deavers and the only bolt necessary to hold everything together.

as far as the lower shock mounts, i had a hard time with the nut, ended up using a jack to apply additional upward pressure to break the hold. (although i would recommend this, it wasn't very safe.)
 

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I stripped the head off of my driver side lower shock mount and had to grind it all of the way down. I was using my impact on the bolt side, rather than the nut side. If I had used an extension to get to the nut side, I don't think I would have stripped it off. I reinstalled a new bolt with an extension that I picked up when I grabbed the bolt. Much smoother. Are you using shims and the longer bolts with spacers?
MC's How-To
 

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Discussion Starter #5
norshor said:
I stripped the head off of my driver side lower shock mount and had to grind it all of the way down. I was using my impact on the bolt side, rather than the nut side. If I had used an extension to get to the nut side, I don't think I would have stripped it off. I reinstalled a new bolt with an extension that I picked up when I grabbed the bolt. Much smoother. Are you using shims and the longer bolts with spacers?
MC's How-To
im not using shims cause greg said they were not necessary. im taking the overload leaf out and using the existing u-bolts. not sure what you mean about longer bolts witht he spacers.
 

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You do not want to reuse u-bolts.

The way u-bolts work is, as they are torqued down the threads on the bolt streatch. When you remove the nuts it causes the threads to cross thread. Once that happens you will never be able to properly torque the bolts.

Also, don't be shocked when you end up needing shims.
 

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Muzikman said:
You do not want to reuse u-bolts.

The way u-bolts work is, as they are torqued down the threads on the bolt streatch. When you remove the nuts it causes the threads to cross thread. Once that happens you will never be able to properly torque the bolts.

Also, don't be shocked when you end up needing shims.
x2
I spent an hour talking to Greg with him telling me I DON'T need shims. And he suggested that I re use my u bolts also. The factory ubolts are junk compared to what my local shop made for me. I completely disagree with him and feel I would have been making a mistake by not using shims. I still have a tiny shake at 35 to 40 mph. I used 2.5 degree shims and am unsure of the problem. I still have not torqued the ubolts all of the way down and plan on taking it apart to see if I did something wrong. When the shop test drove my truck after the alignment, they said they felt nothing. In fact, no one in my truck can feel anything. It's probably just me. I still cannot see this set up working without shims. The spacers are used for the center bolts when you put the shims in. Click on the link I left for you and you will see exactly what I mean.
 

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The shake could be the loose u-bolts. I would go a head and torque them down. It's amazing how much stress a u-bolt is under.

The vibration could be the tires too.
 

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I thought it might be the fact they are torqued at 65 lbs. My father in law just went for a drive with me and thought it could be the tires also. It ma just be the fact that I'm noticing them now. I've only got like 300 miles on the u bolts, checking them every few days. I do feel less vibration when there are people in the back, or when I have coolers and gear loaded. If i torque them to 92lbs, will I have to get new Ubolts if the vibration is still there?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well now i'm all worried. why would greg tell me to reuse the stock u-bolts if they won't reach torque specs? also, i'm not using the overload spring.

i just drove home (5 miles) and i didn't notice any vibrations. do i need to give them time to settle?
 

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Thats good to hear they worked on your truck without the shims. As for the u bolts, its always been a general rule, that if you pull a set off, you replace them with new ones. My buddy, who is a very advanced mechanic, gave me a 5 minute advanced lesson on why you never re use your u bolts. I listened to him, and the others on this board who did it. Plus, my new ones are WAY beefier.
 

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Discussions like this are one of the reasons I am leaning towards the Calmini AAL kit... all inclusive. Leafs, u-bolts, shims. I've heard they are a bit squeaky (solved by anti-friction pads at the ends), and Calmini definitely doesn't have the best reputation, but their AAL kit seems to be good deal. However, seems like nobody has anything bad to say about Greg or PRG, so that really counts for a lot, too. Decisions, decisions...
 

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I also put a set of Deavers on. I reused the u-bolt and have had no vibration. I have put over 1000 miles on these since install about 2 weeks ago. including an off-road trip that lasted 3 days and easily covered 150+ miles of trail.

So far, so good. Knock on wood.
 

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Calmini definitely doesn't have the best reputation
Their customer service has been subpar for a few, their craftsmanship however is outstanding. There have been a couple powdercoat issues also, mostly eastcoast (for whatever reason? salt?), but I can't think of any instances of their product failing. With the exception of a guy named Ivans TRA, and he's a nut.
I've said before, I think Shrocks products look better on the Gen2, but I will trust Calmini parts to get me to the trail safely, and back.

I went through a Calmini AAL set with their 3" susp, then added a 2" BL and went even higher in the back with their SAS springpack replacement to level it off. Good stuff.
 
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