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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Username: mikidymac

Make: Nissan
Year: 2011
Model: Xterra
Trim: PRO-4X
Color: Night Armor

Transmission: Auto

MODS:
ARB Diff Cover
LED Interior lights.
Tires: Cooper AT3 4s
Phone Mount: Mob Armor
PRG Front 1/2" Spacers
Deaver 1.5" Single Add A Leaf Rear.
Diff Vent Breather

I finally found an X after a month of looking so I thought I should start a thread on it......
Turns out a friend of a friend had one and decided to sell it when he heard we were looking. It's a 2011 Pro-4x, Night Armor bone stock with 92,000 miles and leather. He was the original owner and had all the service records, manuals and window sticker.
Here are some pics from the day we got it...
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I really don't know what mods we will do at this point but I wanted to go through all fluids and filters first before we even start using it.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
As you can see from the front picture his wife hit something between the first time we looked at it and when we bought it.
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All of the plastic push pins were broken that held the grill and bumper cover on and something was bent so the grill was hitting the hood. So I pulled all the front plastic off.
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Turns out the only thing damaged was the little middle sheet metal support in front of the radiator so with a hammer and my hands it bent back really easy and everything lined up perfectly after $15 is new plastic pop-pins.

While the grill was off I did the poor man's flush of the transmission with Valvoline MaxLife and restored the headlights.
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It also had an oil leak and the entire skid plate and cross member were absolutely covered in oil.
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From what I could see it was coming from the oil filter area so I got a new oil cooler o-ring, Nissan oil filter and some synthetic oil and prepared for an oil change eventhough he had it done 1,000 miles ago.
So with some Castrol SuperClean and a pressure washer I dropped the skid plates and got her cleaned up. I think the majority of the oil was from lazy oil changes and just letting the filter drain all over everything of the last 92,000 miles. But the oil filter mounting bolt that goes through the cooler was less than hand tight and spun off with just my bare hands so the cooler was alo leaking. I replaced the original orange sea with a new OEM Nissan one and torqued the mounting bolt to factory spec.
I changed the front diff oil and it looked brand new. Then installed the McMaster Carr 150# struts on the rear cargo hatch to get a little more head room for my 6'3" self.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Got a chance to play a little more last night with the X.
Some more goodies arrived.
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I got the interior LED's installed.
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I wanted a phone mount that not only held off-road but also that didn't look like poop in the X. A good friend of mine works as Mob Armor and sold me a couple different options to try out.
The nice thing is they fit the X dash without blocking anything. First you mount the base discs with the attached 3M VHB tape.
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Then the same on the back of your phone.
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For the mount options you have the MobNetic which has magnets on both sides or the MobMount that has the magnet on the dash side and a standard claw for the phone. Not sure which one is better but we'll find out.
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Discussion Starter #5
Also did the thermostat, coolant, serpentine belt and transfer case fluid. Actually the only fluid that looked dirty on this entire vehicle was the transfer case.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Little update.
I can confirm on a 2011 PRO-4X the breather threads are in fact 1/8” BSP British Standard Pipe. I had first tried 1/8 NPT and it wouldn’t even start.
Since I didn’t want the complete Off-road Gorilla kit and couldn’t confirm their threads I bought a stainless 1/8 BSP male by 2/8 NPT female adapter and a stainless 1/8 NPT by 1/4 hose barb from McMasterCarr


Then assembled with Teflon pipe dope.


It sticks up more than I like but I could not find a 1/8 BSP barb.

Then used some jetski parts I had, fuel/vent hose that somehow never gets hard even after 20 years


An old Yamaha fuel filter/water separator.


And finally a nice 180 to keep water out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I got an almost new PRG 1.5” AAL and brand new PRG 0.5” front spacers.

The rear install couldn’t have been easier (no rust in California) remove tires, sway bar mounts, lower shock and spring plates.

I didn’t even touch the factory springs except to remove the factory overload.

Then just a couple C clamps to compress the new AAL to get the bolt started.



I made sure to tighten the U bolts to the exact same length and torque them with the weight of the vehicle on them and reinstall the shocks, sway bar and wheels.

That’s pretty much it for the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
For the front I am less than impressed..... I tried calling PRG and left a message with no response. The spacers didn’t have any instructions but they are pretty hard to get wrong but......

First removed the wheels and put on jack stands.

Remove the sway bar end nuts, lower shock bolts and 3 upper shock nuts, that’s it. Don’t remove anything else from the front suspension, don’t know why some videos show removing the steering ends and ball joints.



So with the strut out this is where the issue was.
The spacers had 3 big holes and 3 threaded holes for some strange reason?
The big holes are too sloppy for proper alignment.


And the threaded holes don’t fit over the studs.
So drill out the threads.


Now this is how they should have come.


Now just reinstall everything and torque everything with the vehicle weight on it, I did it by jacking up the lower control arm until the frame raised off the jack stands.
 

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Looks great! I'm doing the ARB diff cover next week, any tips from your experience?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Looks great! I'm doing the ARB diff cover next week, any tips from your experience?
Decide how you are going to secure the brake hose. Other than that mark your dipstick and I suggest the LubeLocker gasket. Other than that it is really simple.
It's also a good time to do the breather vent if you haven't already.
 

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Decide how you are going to secure the brake hose. Other than that mark your dipstick and I suggest the LubeLocker gasket. Other than that it is really simple.
It's also a good time to do the breather vent if you haven't already.
Okay awesome! I've got the LubeLocker on its way from offroad gorilla and I've already done the breather mod. Seems like it's going to be a fun project figuring out the brake hose.
 

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And finally a nice 180 to keep water out.
Not sure if that's a good idea about hanging the hose off the wire harness with a zip tie. The harness connections might work it's way loose in time due to vibration from the hanging hose. So if your rear lights go out, then you know what's up, just sayin'.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Not sure if that's a good idea about hanging the hose off the wire harness with a zip tie. The harness connections might work it's way loose in time due to vibration from the hanging hose. So if your rear lights go out, then you know what's up, just sayin'.
Thanks. I thought about that and there really is no tension on them, just stopping it from falling down the hole but I will keep and eye on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok. Quick update and you can say I told you so but I’m not out much money. AAL worked great until we were fully loaded for a very long camping trip with 14 gallons of water food camping gear and everything. It bottoms out pretty good still off-road.

Got her pretty dirty so far.
 

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Ok. Quick update and you can say I told you so but I’m not out much money. AAL worked great until we were fully loaded for a very long camping trip with 14 gallons of water food camping gear and everything. It bottoms out pretty good still off-road.

Got her pretty dirty so far.
Told you so! :p j/k.

Honestly, if it’s only bottoming out while loaded to the gills I’d call that a win. Pick up a set of timbrens/sumo springs and you’ll be in good shape for future adventures in my opinion.
 
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