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Sub'd. Keeping an eye on this dual battery setup.
 
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A list in no particular order:

1. Your winch needs to go off the main battery directly (including the ground). It will pop all those circuit breakers each time you use it the way you have it.

2. Are you sure you need a 200a circuit breaker? To give you an idea, my BlueSea fuse block is rated for 100a, I have a 90a circuit breaker since I don't want to run the full 100a to the terminal fuse block. In other words, the circuit breaker should be rated just under the max output of one of the boxes so that it will trigger first instead of a meltdown at one of the boxes.

3. The switch set for the rear should go through the relay box and not through the dashboard set (maybe you will do this, just the diagram suggests it is going through the dashboard set).

4. There needs to be a ground connecting the two batteries and fuses before the controller. I've attached an example of my National Luna kit diagram as a reference.

 
Ordered my Dual Batt Kit tdy... updated wiring diagram... thoughts??
Upgrade the 10awg wire to at least 6awg, but since you are using #4 for the main leader, go ahead and use 4awg for the rest of the run. It will save you more time as well and money because you can buy more of the same lug sizes.

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Also, oba usually used larger guage wire. You won't be able to run it only off the switch panel. You'll need the trigger wire to go to the switch, and the home run power wire ( large gauge wire) to go to the battery.

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Discussion starter · #25 ·
A list in no particular order:

1. Your winch needs to go off the main battery directly (including the ground). It will pop all those circuit breakers each time you use it the way you have it.

2. Are you sure you need a 200a circuit breaker? To give you an idea, my BlueSea fuse block is rated for 100a, I have a 90a circuit breaker since I don't want to run the full 100a to the terminal fuse block. In other words, the circuit breaker should be rated just under the max output of one of the boxes so that it will trigger first instead of a meltdown at one of the boxes.

3. The switch set for the rear should go through the relay box and not through the dashboard set (maybe you will do this, just the diagram suggests it is going through the dashboard set).

4. There needs to be a ground connecting the two batteries and fuses before the controller. I've attached an example of my National Luna kit diagram as a reference.


I keep reading conflicting reports on where the winch should be wired, some say to main, then some say to Aux as with the Iso if one dies the other takes over...but can run that right from main

Used advice from Taylor Spaulding on the 20 AMP Circ brkr in the bay the split in the cab, can't hurt?

Yes the rear switches would be directly trough the relax not the set

And Yes I did forget to show the ground for the batt to batt I am saving for the hand drawn version once I have everything in hand
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Also, oba usually used larger guage wire. You won't be able to run it only off the switch panel. You'll need the trigger wire to go to the switch, and the home run power wire ( large gauge wire) to go to the battery.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
I based the 16GA off what comes with the VAIR OBA which uses 16GA, per their PDF manual
 
I keep reading conflicting reports on where the winch should be wired, some say to main, then some say to Aux as with the Iso if one dies the other takes over...but can run that right from main

Used advice from Taylor Spaulding on the 20 AMP Circ brkr in the bay the split in the cab, can't hurt?

Yes the rear switches would be directly trough the relax not the set

And Yes I did forget to show the ground for the batt to batt I am saving for the hand drawn version once I have everything in hand
The reason I say hook the winch to the main is the alternator will charge it directly as it discharges. Otherwise, it has to go through your smart solenoid and that may be too much amperage for it. A 9500lb pull rated winch can draw close to if not over 400amps. You want the winch direct to the terminals regardless of which battery you will pull the power from. Some people run a fuse or circuit breaker in line but it has to be of rated to handle the amperage.

I assume you mean 200amp instead of 20amp? Anyway what I was getting at was 200amp may be too high to act as a safety cut-off apart from some crazy catastrophic short. Consider lowering it to 150amp or something. Also make sure the 80amp breakers are less than the max amperage the relay boxes are rated for. If they are only rated for 50amp, they will melt before the circuit breakers even pop.
 
The reason I say hook the winch to the main is the alternator will charge it directly as it discharges. Otherwise, it has to go through your smart solenoid and that may be too much amperage for it. A 9500lb pull rated winch can draw close to if not over 400amps. You want the winch direct to the terminals regardless of which battery you will pull the power from. Some people run a fuse or circuit breaker in line but it has to be of rated to handle the amperage.

I assume you mean 200amp instead of 20amp? Anyway what I was getting at was 200amp may be too high to act as a safety cut-off apart from some crazy catastrophic short. Consider lowering it to 150amp or something. Also make sure the 80amp breakers are less than the max amperage the relay boxes are rated for. If they are only rated for 50amp, they will melt before the circuit breakers even pop.
Agreed with running the winch to the battery directly. That is the only way it should be done. Also.. do not attach it to the small bolts on the back side of the fuse terminal on the battery. Those fuses are not designed to handle the extra draw a winch will pull. If you pop the fuse and shut the truck off it won't start again until the fuse block is replaced.
Ask me how I know.

I would still plan to make a home run cable to the battery for the OBA anyways. What brand and compressor are you going to run? I just installed the dual ARB compressor so that is why I'm asking. It has 2 #8 power leads (1 for each compressor with a 40amp fuse on each) that needs to be run to the battery. They specifically say do not run the compressor off a switch. You will burn up the switch. The switch should only be used as a trigger. Now, if you have something that is similar to an spod that can be used with a 40 amp fuse and accommodate the larger diameter wiring you can go that route.

I have the 2 #6 running to the battery, the trigger wires run to my relay panel and terminated on the power rail, which then my switch panel triggers the relays ONLY for the trigger to turn on the compressor. It gets the main power from the battery


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Discussion starter · #29 ·
The reason I say hook the winch to the main is the alternator will charge it directly as it discharges. Otherwise, it has to go through your smart solenoid and that may be too much amperage for it. A 9500lb pull rated winch can draw close to if not over 400amps. You want the winch direct to the terminals regardless of which battery you will pull the power from. Some people run a fuse or circuit breaker in line but it has to be of rated to handle the amperage.

I assume you mean 200amp instead of 20amp? Anyway what I was getting at was 200amp may be too high to act as a safety cut-off apart from some crazy catastrophic short. Consider lowering it to 150amp or something. Also make sure the 80amp breakers are less than the max amperage the relay boxes are rated for. If they are only rated for 50amp, they will melt before the circuit breakers even pop.
Yes 100% menat 200 AMP

SO this I suppose could go into the Dumb Question thread, my relay box does not show a rating...is the rating calculated based off the relays that go into the box? IE: 6 30 AMP relays ame the box rating 180AMP?
 
Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
Agreed with running the winch to the battery directly. That is the only way it should be done. Also.. do not attach it to the small bolts on the back side of the fuse terminal on the battery. Those fuses are not designed to handle the extra draw a winch will pull. If you pop the fuse and shut the truck off it won't start again until the fuse block is replaced.
Ask me how I know.

I would still plan to make a home run cable to the battery for the OBA anyways. What brand and compressor are you going to run? I just installed the dual ARB compressor so that is why I'm asking. It has 2 #8 power leads (1 for each compressor with a 40amp fuse on each) that needs to be run to the battery. They specifically say do not run the compressor off a switch. You will burn up the switch. The switch should only be used as a trigger. Now, if you have something that is similar to an spod that can be used with a 40 amp fuse and accommodate the larger diameter wiring you can go that route.

I have the 2 #6 running to the battery, the trigger wires run to my relay panel and terminated on the power rail, which then my switch panel triggers the relays ONLY for the trigger to turn on the compressor. It gets the main power from the battery


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I'm planning on running the VAIR Qtr Duty OBA

And I was planning just the triggers to the switches main from battery
 
Yes 100% menat 200 AMP

SO this I suppose could go into the Dumb Question thread, my relay box does not show a rating...is the rating calculated based off the relays that go into the box? IE: 6 30 AMP relays ame the box rating 180AMP?
No it doesn't. For example my Blue Sea ST Blade fuse block is rated for 100a and 30a per circuit. It has provisions for 12 fuses so the total is 3.6x the rating.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
No it doesn't. For example my Blue Sea ST Blade fuse block is rated for 100a and 30a per circuit. It has provisions for 12 fuses so the total is 3.6x the rating.
Reading more about my relay boxes, have good reviews but I may still need two buss bars
 
Well you could run all the lights on the one and still be within spec, LED's don't draw much amperage. Add up their totals and see where it's at. The air compressor as mentioned will (or should) draw its power from the battery so that's not an issue anymore, even if the signal switch goes through the box. On the other side you need to check what the CB and air horn draw but likely less than anything to worry about.
 
One to each side correct? Does the style used for the 80AMP work, just the 100amp version?
Between the main battery and the isolater and the aux battery and the isolater, as close to the batteries as possible. You'll have to research the rating, the National Luna kit I had came with 100a, I think they are ANL or Mega type fuses. I don't see why the circuit breaker style can't work.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Between the main battery and the isolater and the aux battery and the isolater, as close to the batteries as possible. You'll have to research the rating, the National Luna kit I had came with 100a, I think they are ANL or Mega type fuses. I don't see why the circuit breaker style can't work.
Here's what the kit I bought comes with
 

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Discussion starter · #40 ·
Ordering rear rotors and pads, gotta find one of those Rockauto coupon codes!

Planned the cut sheet for the drawer system, 3 drawers one sliding table
 
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