Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok, I just removed my crank/no start post because I got it started.

Unfortunately, there seem to be other issues. My neighbor has a code reader, so I'm about to see what I've got there. May report back if there isn't anything obvious. Sorry to take up space.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,191 Posts
Keep us updated
 

· Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Keep us updated
Thanks man, the latest is... It's FINALLY running and running well. At nearly 250,000 miles, what can I expect... My previous posts have pieces of backstory, but here's a summary of events:

After my sister sold "my" (her) 2013 Mazda CX-9 out from under me (she had promised to sign it over to me 6 months earlier when I got my license back...I had been accused of a hit-and-run and it had gotten suspended without my knowledge; after learning this from a generous police officer, turning myself in and showing up for multiple court dates where the defendant never made an appearance, it was dropped), I needed a vehicle. Enter a "great deal" on this 2005 Xterra. It had new tires worth more than what I paid for it, so I snatched it up. Ten minutes later, I had a blown engine. The water pump had failed who-knows-when so I drove it off the lot with no coolant. Bad for engine.
So, blown head gaskets. I decided to learn something useful and do the job myself. My neighbor had a fully-stocked garage on top of the tools I already had (which would have gotten me there, but not without some major guesswork on torqueing, etc.) and was kind enough to offer those, but he has a ridiculous work schedule and couldn't provide much in-person assistance. A month later, I had completed the job. Talk about an education.
After putting coolant back in it, this is where I figured out the water pump had a shredded gasket at the impellor and most of what went in the engine went right back out through the weep hole. Here we go again. After completing that, I had a suspicion that the timing had jumped during the swap. I was right. Here we go again again. After taking the front cover back off, I saw that the main tensioner guide had broken at the top of the nylon, the nylon had slipped down and the chain jumped a LOT. Luckily I didn't have many other consequenses besides a ton of codes: Initially P0102, 0113, 0011, 0305... Then P0305, 0223, 0123, 0420, 0430, 1111... Then P0345, 0123, 0223, 0113. I got an intact guide at LKQ (after taking the tensioner cover off of one, I found the exact same problem with that one, and it was a 2005 also... the second one was an '08 and it was good, so I got to take another front cover off. Thankfully the crankshaft pulley had already been removed, but not much else... so more experience), put that one on, and got it all back together AGAIN. After a test drive around the block, it was jerking during acceleration in a very disturbing way. I did some research and bought some MAF sensor cleaner and changed the oil and filter for the third time. I got the codes read while I was at Auto Zone and they found a P0744, which is awesome news. I'm gonna try some Seafoam tranny treatment, hopefully that'll help.

All in all, it's been a helluva ride. The X itself is really in immaculate shape. My neighbor got a look inside the heads and timing assembly and said everything looked really good. Unbelievably good for that much mileage. It drives really smoothly. I think if I can get all the issues cleared up mechanically, it will give me another 50,000 if I take damn good care of it. Next on the punch list is the EVAP canister, because it takes literally 10 minutes to put $20 worth of fuel in it. Otherwise, I think... I HOPE... That I've gotten the majors out of the way.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Oh yeah... I noticed the MIL never came on through any of this. After taking out the cluster, I found the LED had been broken off, and after doing some Googling, I found that they don't just un-sauter themselves if they burn out. So I may have a lawsuit on my hands.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
interesting. watching this thread. you did a crap ton of work already - a+ for effort to keep this thing alive.
Man, it's been a journey... I was going to ask a question about two pesky codes that keep popping up (the only two coming up now) on here, then I was going to start a new thread, then I figured what the heck... The three people who have responded with likes or posts should steer me in the right direction. On top of that, I'm tired of creating new threads for the same truck. Sooooo....

Some of the first codes to show up after the head gaskets were changed were a cylinder 5 misfire P0305 and the corresponding bank one P0420 for the cat(s). Trying to find a Google diagnosis, much less a solution, was a complete waste of half an hour spent scrolling through link after link of one code or the other, but not both. Then I found this: P0300, P0420, P0430 Codes: Bad Catalytic Converters on the Frontier forum. Eureka! Thanks, whoever you are. It's a start.

I put new plugs in during the initial rebuild, but as I was removing the coils for the first time, the screw in #5 snapped off about a 1/4" deep. I played around with it and managed to throw a horrible effort of duct tape and Lysol at it, resulting in a wobbly mess that was seated probably 3/32" higher than normal. So I kept it to short trips to Auto Zone (8-ish mile round trip) after clearing the codes to see what popped up on the two-trip. Obviously I was concerned that the coil wasn't getting close enough to the plug, and I knew it couldn't stay that way, so I doubled down and got it to sit flush and tight after a ton of drilling and tapping and bolt-fitting. Anyway, after the clusterf*ck that has been the last two weeks, I thought I had it licked, but there was hardly any power going to the wheels... I took it to the Zone one more time to grab some Seafoam Transmission Prayer and couldn't help but laugh when I saw ONLY two entries come up... Then I saw what the codes were. The first codes to show up and the last... My bane.

Soooooo... Again.... 0305. 0420. I'm in Alabama, where we have never heard of Greenpeace, so to hell with secondary cats.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Oh... The EVAP. I got that taken care of today, along with removing all the seats and doing a full interior detail. Whoever had explosive diarrhea all over the back seats owes me three cans of OxyClean Carpet Stuff... I will find you.
Question: Isn't the EVAP relief valve supposed to have a hose coming off of it? It certainly appears that way, even though the FSM shows me as much as the October '84 Reader's Digest on the matter. Anyway, it's all the way gone. Somewhere. And I still didn't fix the arthritic turtle's pace at the gas pump.

Clearly, I'm a little delirious by now. Updates a-plenty tomorrow. Thank God for entrepreneurship... But I am running out of money to pour into this thing, and fast. Hence the DIY.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
BINGO. I just pulled the secondary cat off, and at first I looked in the downstream side and it was immaculate. After giving it a little shake, nothing. So I gave it a little harder shake, and heard it. Crunch. Rattle.

Now what? I guess there's no way around replacing cat 1, huh? Again, thankful I live in a non-emissions state.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Dumped all the junk from cat 1 out this morning before breakfast with the fam. Thankfully, O'Reilly's is open... My AZ is not. Bought spark plug non-foulers and decided to leave the secondary cat intact.
I've read that this trick doesn't work, but saw some guy put steel wool in the tip of the foulers before the sensor so if it indeed isn't effective, it's worth a shot.

Another question: Do I need to reprogram the ECU (or rather, have it reprogrammed by someone who knows what they're doing) if I've gutted both the primary cats? I have a feeling that bank 1 is either in the same shape and just not as severe, or it's well on its way out. I've seen posts by folks saying they've gutted all four without issue, but I don't want to risk having to tear this thing apart for a 36th time.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, here's what I dumped out of cat 2 (top left & right)... And what the front of its substrate looked like (mid left) So both passenger side cats are gutted. I just finished pulling the driver's side, and thankfully (I guess) they're just clean as a whistle. Guess I won't be doing a full delete. Should I anyway? Or let it ride with super flow on one side and normal on the other?

Photograph Product Automotive tire Finger Font
 

· Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Last update on this thread I suppose...

All is (almost) well. The only codes I have are a closed circuit loop caused by the A/F sensor on bank 2. Checking that out after I pull it into the garage.

A few days ago, it began having a really hard time starting. After half a dozen tries it will finally come to life, shake and sputter for a few seconds, spit out a bunch of white smoke (no coolant smell that I have noted though) and then run like nothing ever happened. Maybe the fuel pump is going... But I finally bought a code reader and looking at the live data, I'm getting basically nothing from the MAF sensor. It stays put at around 15g no matter my throttle or actual speed. That doesn't seem right.
Also, it could be the A/F issue. Could be the throttle body, though that code hasn't reappeared. Neither has the torque converter code. Hmm.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top