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Discussion Starter #1
I bought my 05 about 6 weeks ago. I finally had an opportunity to climb underneath and give it a good inspection today. Here's some pics and some questions about what I found.

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Power steering line bent and rusted. Replace soon.

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Inner CV boot beginning to wear. Keep an eye on it.

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Driver side cat nearing end of life. Heatsheild rusted and completely loose. Replace soon.


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Some seepage around lower oil pan seal. Keep an eye on.

Any thoughts on the quick drain fitting?


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Rear drive shaft coming out of the tranny (if I remember correct)...hopefully this wear pattern is typical.
 

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123228


E brake lines. Bottom one looks rusted. Replace or lube?

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What the heck is this thing. Mounted to the inside of the body facing the frame....I think.

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Broken leaf and damaged bump stop. New rear suspension is next after rear brakes.
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Found the exhaust leak. According to records this repair was done by the dealer. Shoddy if you ask me.

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I'm thinking original spare and the lifter has never been used...and never will be. Not sure if I should go with a bumper mount or try to replace the lifter and try to protect everything with a tire cover or something.


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What is this thing mounted on the side of the exhaust? Noise damper maybe? Suppose I could check the fsm.


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Not looking forward to doing the suspension work. Is it just me or do X's undersides rust at an alarming rate?


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My hand is blocking sunlight for a better pic. Assuming this is the rear axle vent that people extend up to the taillight. Concerns about the fluid leakage?


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Step tread is long gone and there is a hole to the right of the receiver. Grind, weld and paint...or replace?
 

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How many miles?
I've got rust like any other vehicle driven on salted roads but not quite as much as you. However around my rear shakles looks about the same.
Personally I'm going to grind off whatever I can with a wire wheel and hit it with rust converter.

I'd lube the e-brake, maybe pull back the rubber boot and see if its clean or worse.

Just a few comments on your photos.

The cat looks pretty much like mine did at 119k miles. the inside was still super clean, just the flange rusted away until it wouldn't seal anymore.

The oil pan does not look great, but looks like its leaking from the seal, or is it from up higher?

Axle breather... Ive never seen one leak from the breather. I suppose it's better to leak from there rather than blow out the axle seals. It's an easy quick mod. I would change the diff fluid though
Who knows what its like.

As for the hitch, I'd turf it and get another. I see then come up for sale fairly often. I would not trust one that far gone.
 

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A note on axle breathers.

The one on my x had no "wetness" around it. Completely clogged. Both axle seals blown and diff fluid looked like chocolate milk with chunks of rust in it.

The one on my Titan looked just like yours. Axle seals still intact, fluid looked brand new with 90+k on it.

I think it's a good sign, better out than in I guess.

On a side note, that's a lot of rust! I haven't seen anything like that since I replaced the suspension on a Jaguar I bought from New York. Two days and a cutting torch in a fully outfitted professional shop. I've got my fingers crossed for you on those leaf spring bolts buddy.
 

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Thanks for your comments.

I have just a tic under 115k at 14 years old. I am in the Hudson Valley area of New York so it gets pretty salty in the winter. It's been my experience that the X's rust like this. I looked at 3 others before this one and had almost given up on ever getting one again because they were all much worse than this. I felt like this one was relatively clean compared to the others. Still the rust on the back bumper and hitch make me wonder if the original owners used a salt spreader on the hitch. Anyway, a Linoln Electric mini torch kit is on my xmas list.

The seller got my X from his parents 3 years ago after the passenger side cat was diagnosed by the dealer as "leaking" (I got all the service records from when his parents owned it. They even had the original dealer window sticker from when they bought it brand new). I'm figuring it probably rusted out like this one is.

The oil pan is definitely leaking from the seal. There is one bolt that is quite wet and the pattern goes out from there. There is never any oil spots where I park so I think it's more of a seep than a leak. I'll be keeping an eye on it. Seems like it "should be" relatively easy to change the gasket.

I'll be doing an oil change in a couple k miles and plan on changing tranny, difs and xfer case fluids then too. Gave the drain and fill plugs a first dose of pb blaster yesterday. I have to do some e-brake work too because the handle goes all the way up and the brake doesn't hold on a hill. Probably needs new shoes. Those cables are so short I'll probably go ahead and replace it. I may do the axle breather mod too since I'll already be working around there but this is a daily driver so not sure if that is really necessary. But I guess all it would take is a deep puddle in one of our crazy new era storms to mess things up.
 

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If your e-brake is anything like mine was, the pad had rusted so bad it had peeled off the base. Also the pin holding the pad in place had come loose because the backing plate securing it had rusted.
Would be good to see your progress, there are a few if us trying to breathe more life into earlier gen2's.
 

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I'm in the salt/rust belt like you (NY capital district). Until this year I was able to keep the rust on my 08 under control but now it seems it has gotten to the point of being a waste of time going after the rust. But here is a safety item not to ignore. Just last year I found flaking rust in the slots that the tabs of the brake pads ride in resulting in the pads not moving (or at least not releasing) resulting in unusual pad wear. Cleaned them out and carefully greased the slots. Just last week found flaking rust starting again in the slots so this will be a annual thing to do.
 

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Your first "What the heck is this thing?", the one on the body next to the frame, is a harmonic damper thingy (or something like that). I know this because Shrockworks tells you to remove them when you install their sliders.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
FrankB is that a technical term, "Harmonic Damper Thingy". Haha! Thanks. I figured they were something like that. The piece on the exhaust is another HDT. The part is on the exhaust parts diagram in the FSM but doesn't have any label or info other than fastener tourqe.
 

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This makes me SO GLAD to live out West... I'm in AZ and my 06 X spent most of its life in NM. It's nothing like yours, holy cow!

I would definitely not use that hitch for anything but a very light trailer.

Drive shaft looks normal to me.

I think the rubber deal hanging off the pipe is a broken mount.
 

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View attachment 123228

E brake lines. Bottom one looks rusted. Replace or lube?

View attachment 123229

What the heck is this thing. Mounted to the inside of the body facing the frame....I think.

View attachment 123230

Broken leaf and damaged bump stop. New rear suspension is next after rear brakes. View attachment 123231

Found the exhaust leak. According to records this repair was done by the dealer. Shoddy if you ask me.

View attachment 123232

I'm thinking original spare and the lifter has never been used...and never will be. Not sure if I should go with a bumper mount or try to replace the lifter and try to protect everything with a tire cover or something.


View attachment 123233

What is this thing mounted on the side of the exhaust? Noise damper maybe? Suppose I could check the fsm.


View attachment 123234

Not looking forward to doing the suspension work. Is it just me or do X's undersides rust at an alarming rate?


View attachment 123235

My hand is blocking sunlight for a better pic. Assuming this is the rear axle vent that people extend up to the taillight. Concerns about the fluid leakage?


View attachment 123236

Step tread is long gone and there is a hole to the right of the receiver. Grind, weld and paint...or replace?
You do have some issues for sure. As for your rear suspension. I had to replace my rear springs and shocks a couple of months ago. I got ARB old man emu spring (5 leaf) and bushings and Bilstein shocks from 4 WHEEL PARTS for less then $700.00. A lot cheaper then the OE 3 leaf springs and shocks and much better quality too. Hope this helps a little. And the ride is very good.
 

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The only rust I have on my '08 is on the tail gate around the window. I live in MN and during the winter I run it through the car wash at least once a month. I really think that helps.
 

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That looks about right for the age and part of the country. Very original looking.
Driveshaft is correct. That is the slip yoke. What you see is how much travel into the transfer case you get with suspension travel and bushing flex. Looks correct.

At that age and condition, keep an eye on the U-joints as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks early2010. I figured the driveshaft would function like that but good to get confirmation. I have all the repair records from the original owners (the seller's parents) and I feel like I saw u joints in there. I'll have to look again.
 

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Some suggestions for the OP. (BTW, nice photos, they really help assess the situation.)

+ Wash the underside of the vehicle thoroughly with a hi-pressure hose. Maybe a couple of times. Knock as much dirt and rust off as you can. Use a wooden stick, broom or stiff nylon brush to knock off any hanging rust.

Plan on hi-pressure hosing the vehicle every time you go off-road or every 1 to 2 months during the winter.

+ Get a qualified shop to apply liquid rust treatment such as this: Krown. Soon as in yesterday. Apply it annually, ideally during the hot summer months, for the rest of the life of the vehicle.

Krown is only available in upstate New York so you may have to find another shop.

mtnbound may be correct in suggesting to 'trash' the trailer hitch. At the minimum, remove it and brush it hard with a steel wire brush. Use a spray can of Krown or similar to drench the bolt holes on the vehicle.

If you believe the trailer hitch might be salvageable but are not sure, show it to a couple of experienced auto mechanics. If it looks OK, painstakingly remove any remaining rust and carefully paint. Two coats minimum.

P.S. Curious. How much did you pay for the vehicle?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks westslope and Whitepro4. I definitely want to tackle the rust, but brakes and suspension are top on the list right now. I'll be hitting things with a wire wheel as I do work underneath over the coming months. Will definitely be car washing at least once a month and/or after every road salting over the winter. Krown seems like a very thorough and reasonably priced option. There is a shop just NW of Albany, about 2.5 hours from me. As far as the hitch goes, I've found them for about $150 so if I ever plan to tow that will get swapped out. Until then it will only ever carry a bike rack.
 

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Reminds me of living in Wisconsin, I don't miss the rusty crap.
It really is worth the trip to the south when buying older vehicles.
My 20 years old DD Dodge truck has almost zero rust, though the first five years of its life I drove it in WI.
 
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