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Discussion Starter #1
During the process of the locker install we ran into some wiring issues.

1) Can't get the light in the switch to illuminate
2) Switch works backwards. Flat is on, angled is off.

Part of the problem is neither of us are/were the best at wiring.

We tried every possible combination and can't get it to work the correct way. Meaning, we couldn't get the light to illuminate no matter the wire combination was. And we couldn't get the switch to work the other way, no matter what we tried the wires.

Everything works, just not 100% to spec.

Looking for ideas on how to fix this and hoping maybe someone can shine some light on this.

This is the wiring diagram we have for the switch
 

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By looking at the diagram. It seem your wires 1 and 2 on the switch must be backwards. But you said you tried every combination. That is the only reason I can see why "flat" is on and "pushed in" is off.
 

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Jeff we will figure this out at ECXC. Just bring the schmatics.
 

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How are you wiring this up? Are you just by-passing the electronics and just jumpering the 'noid? What switch are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Muzikman said:
How are you wiring this up? Are you just by-passing the electronics and just jumpering the 'noid? What switch are you using?
Pony is right, we are using the OEM switch.

We have the 2 power connectors from the locker running to the switch. The switch is then connected to the Fuse box. And a ground, obviously.

Not really that much to it.
 

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There is no light in the swtich. The only thing that lights up is the "Diff Lock" on the dash.

You also have to remember, the switch is designed to control the locker control module, which I assume is still in Pony's truck so the switch might act a bit strange. Did you toss an ohm meter on the switch to see what is open and what is closed? Maybe the Locker control module is a normally closed circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Muzikman said:
There is no light in the swtich. The only thing that lights up is the "Diff Lock" on the dash.

Did you toss an ohm meter on the switch to see what is open and what is closed? Maybe the Locker control module is a normally closed circuit.
Not that I'm aware of but Dagger did a majority of the wiring.
 

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If you can't figure it out before ECXC I'll have my meter with me, we can see how that switch is wired. My guess though is that the system is normaly closed and when engaged you open the switch. Since you are using the switch to jump the 'noid it is backwards. There probably isn't much you can do about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Muzikman said:
If you can't figure it out before ECXC I'll have my meter with me, we can see how that switch is wired. My guess though is that the system is normaly closed and when engaged you open the switch. Since you are using the switch to jump the 'noid it is backwards. There probably isn't much you can do about it.
That was my next question, if there was anything that could be done about it.

Forgive my retardness with wires with this question. But is there a way of adding another 'noid to reverse it back?

Because the locker can be engaged whenever I want, I'm going to put another switch in the fuse box area. That way it takes 2 to turn on, not just one.
 

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Jason good point.
You maybe able to fix it with a relay. I would have to play around with it. Save it for ECXC. Just bring an automotive relay with you. Like the one for the Hella lights.

The issue stems from the switch being wired to the Locker Control Module. The Module then decides what the correct action is. Based on a number of factors. IE is 4wd Lo Engaged, speed, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'll make sure I pick one up for ECXC.

I assume you can just get them at like radio shack or something?
 

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Autozone, pepboys. Not sure is s-Shack carries them anymore. They are moving away from electronic components and more towards TV's and cell phones. You may also want to pick up some femail spade connectors that fit on the end of the relay.
 

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Jeff,

First off, sorry we could not get the switch right for you on Friday. I am pretty sure you have a bad relay. I would take it back and get another one. The one you got is right though, so the same exact one will (or should) work.

Here is how you want to hook it up.

Pin 85 – Switch (you want to hook this to the line coming out of the switch)
Pin 86 – Ground (you want to hook this to the ground line I ran from your radio bracket)
Pin 30 – Power (You want to hook this to the line coming from the fuse box)
Pin 87 – Load (You want to hook this to the line going back to the locker solenoid)
Pin 87a – This pin is not used, but you will want to tape or cap it so it does not short out.

The logic here is this.

Pin 85 & 86 power the coil in the relay. The coil is what tells the relay to turn or off. Pin 30 is the power source. Pins 87 and 87a are your output. When the relay is energized pin 87a is powered. When the relay is not energized pin 87 is powered. Since the stock switch is a normally Closed (NC) switch (meaning that when the switch is in the flat position current flows through it) it is causing the locker to engage. With the relay hooked up (like above) the relay will normally be energized and pin 87 will not get power. When you flip the switch, the relay is no longer energized and pin 87 will get the power and engage the locker.

I hope this makes sense. If not let me know and I’ll try to elaborate.

If getting a new relay and wiring as described above still does not work, then I must have improperly read the switch and have the wrong wire. To find out is that is the case get a volt meter with can measure continuity and jump across the different leads with the switch on and off.

I am also going to post this publicly so that Keith can have a look and see if he agrees with me.


NOTE: As I was posting this I just realized, one of the things I did not check was if you actually had power to the switch. There are three wires going to that switch, one going to the fuse panel, one going to ground and one going to the locker solenoid (I think I am right). I took the one from the fuse panel and wired it into the relay. This means you have no current to trip the coil in the relay. This was a stupid oversight on my part and the whole reason it wasn't working.

Check this for me and if that was the case, then I am an idiot.
 

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Jeff I will buy the correct relay and verify it works. then on the Wine run we can install this thing once and for all.

Jason that relay was NG. It would not close when 12V engerized the coil. Very frustrating.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
kokopop said:
Jeff I will buy the correct relay and verify it works. then on the Wine run we can install this thing once and for all.

Jason that relay was NG. It would not close when 12V engerized the coil. Very frustrating.
Okay, just let me know ahead of time what I'll owe you.
 

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No problem. I have to run to the autoparts store tonight anyway.
 
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