Again, what are your goals & budget for the lift? 3" is a number, however, there are multiple ways to hit it & some give more capability (& usually cost more $) than others.
You can mix & match or buy kits (& usually need to throw in some other things) to make it all work. I have ordered from PRG & Nisstec & they are both great (PRG is a little difficult to contact but awesome about answering questions once you get ahold of them). I have no experience with them, but many on this forum reference Roughrocks, Alldogs Offroad, & 4x4parts.
The rear is simple:
At the high $ end get Alcan, Deaver, or other custom spring with high end shocks (reservoir if you are routinely catching air & pounding really fast through rough terrain, not necessary for most of us).
At the low $ end get a set of adjustable shackles & correct length shocks. This will flatten out your leaves & reduce load carrying capacity & is not recommended (also not certain how high you can go on shackles alone).
In the middle is the best compromise for someone with a budget. Get a dual or multi-leaf AAL and combine it with shackles & correct length Bilstein 5100's. This will increase load carrying capacity & give a better ride, obviously solving bottoming issues. OME springs will do the same thing.
FWIW I have an AAL with a Roadmaster Active Suspension w/5100's & it gave 2" of total lift but massively improved load carrying & towing ability. Still not enough for what I do & debating between Alcans or a DAAL now.
Whatever you do add extended bumpstops (to keep from crushing the shocks) & extended brakelines at that height, & you may want to drop the swaybar (many delete it but since I tow not a good option for me).
For the front you WILL need new UCA's to avoid CBC. Rockauto has Mevotech branded SPC's for $400.
At the low $ end for lift you can do just a 3" spacer. This is not the best way as it will eat up most of your downtravel.
Best bet is to combine a coilover or some sort of lift shock with spacer (some coilovers will let you crank up to 3" alone, this is usually not recommended as the high preload makes for a terrible ride). Ask the shops & they can recommend a good combo for your budget & goals. With aftermarket UCA's you might as well get extended travel coilovers if it is in your budget, you'll get something like a 20-25% increase over stock travel. PRG just came out with a new, less expensive coilover several of us were watching, you can be the test mule!?
Get extended brakelines, bumpstops, & camber bolts to finish it out.
Final note on suspension, the shops mentioned that primarily sell to this market are small, have some knowledgeable staff, are usually willing to mix & match anything (even into a "kit") and can really dial in the setup for your needs and budget if you get in touch & talk to them for a few minutes. They can also throw in valuable setup advice since you are DIY'ing.
For tires get BFG KO2's or Goodyear Duratracs & be done with it (both are great on snow/ice & most terrains). Quiet on the highway (just rotate any AT tires often). I have Duratracs now & they're great. If you stay 265/75/16 you can get C load-range Duratracs to save some weight & mpgs. If you need more cut resistance, go up a size, or get KO2's you are getting E-rated tires.
Many have mentioned Toyo & Cooper AT's as good, you likely won't go wrong with a reputable brand.
Since road noise is a criteria avoid mud terrains whatever you do, they will be LOUD & not so great on ride & handling.
