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Nice rig!
I'm fixing to swap my stock 3.13s front and back for an R180/M226 3.69. Did you have to run a different driveshaft? I was told I'd need one drivers side ABS sensor, is there anything else I should be prepared for?
Thx
 
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Discussion starter · #23 ·
Nice rig!
I'm fixing to swap my stock 3.13s front and back for an R180/M226 3.69. Did you have to run a different driveshaft? I was told I'd need one drivers side ABS sensor, is there anything else I should be prepared for?
Thx
You already have the R180A in the front so you don't need to change any sensors there. You are either changing the gears or the entire diff, either way you won't need a sensor in the front unless you have a broken one.

In the rear, if you are changing to an M226 axle then you will need new sensors cause they don't interchange. Your best bet is to find a complete M226 assembly that comes with sensors and brake components/ rotors etc. Cause those are all different from C200K. You will also need the wiring harness that goes into the e-locker. I ended up getting a new M226 axle but it did not have the brakes or the sensors so I had to source all the missing parts myself.

In terms of drive shaft, no I didn't need to change it. It fit perfectly, we did have a discussion about it here on the forum https://www.thenewx.org/threads/c200k-with-arb-vs-m226-with-e-locker-axle-swap.261129/#post-4108050
There's some good info for you in there. I suggest you do your own research about that since some have different flanges that I can't remember right now.
 
You already have the R180A in the front so you don't need to change any sensors there. You are either changing the gears or the entire diff, either way you won't need a sensor in the front unless you have a broken one.

In the rear, if you are changing to an M226 axle then you will need new sensors cause they don't interchange. Your best bet is to find a complete M226 assembly that comes with sensors and brake components/ rotors etc. Cause those are all different from C200K. You will also need the wiring harness that goes into the e-locker. I ended up getting a new M226 axle but it did not have the brakes or the sensors so I had to source all the missing parts myself.

In terms of drive shaft, no I didn't need to change it. It fit perfectly, we did have a discussion about it here on the forum https://www.thenewx.org/threads/c200k-with-arb-vs-m226-with-e-locker-axle-swap.261129/#post-4108050
There's some good info for you in there. I suggest you do your own research about that since some have different flanges that I can't remember right now.
I'm told the drivers side abs sensor on the donor rear end is bad. Donor is switching to a Titan M226 so he can run the brakes and wheels too so I assume I'll be getting a complete setup and he's going to help me put it in. I'm stoked..
 
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Discussion starter · #25 ·
I'm told the drivers side abs sensor on the donor rear end is bad. Donor is switching to a Titan M226 so he can run the brakes and wheels too so I assume I'll be getting a complete setup and he's going to help me put it in. I'm stoked..
That's great. So you only need one sensor. Make sure you get the correct one.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Your rig looks really good. For the roof rack, are you only running the Raingler net and if so, any issues with your fuel tanks bouncing around or leaking? How are they mounted?
Hey Thanks,
Looks like I haven't been here for quiet a while!
For the roof rack I have added 2 extra crossbars for added rigidity. I have a raingler net that runs underneath everything and so I can put backpacks or wood or anything I need without scraping the roof. I have two 4 galon rotopax cans that are mounted to the cross bar and I have a water tank that is mounter to the rear so I can easily access the hose when cooking in the back. I also have quickfists on the rack for my shovel.
Everything is secure and I haven't felt any bouncing around. When the cans are full I sometimes bungee the ends to the rack just for more rigidity. The Waterport comes with it's own mount that sits upright. I attached the mount to the crossbar with L brackets and added a piece of sheet rubber to the roof to help protect it from the bounce. The Waterport is mounted off center and it can bounce in rough conditions.

So far I've been happy with this setup. I also have a larger raingler net that goes over everything but I rarely use it. It's night out but here is a picture of the roof. Tomorrow, I'll add another one with everything on it.

Light Hood Plant Automotive lighting Bumper
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Does your isolator box have a car battery inside? How does it work?
Hi,
So I have a battery box that has all the necessary ports, an inverter and a digital display that shows how much charge you have, how much you are drawing or charging. This is all built into the box. I have a 100 AH deep cycle agm battery inside it. You can add up to 120 Amp battery I believe.
I then added a 25Amp DC to DC charger between the battery pack and my alternator. So this unit manages how and when to charge the aux battery in the box. The isolation part is done by this unit as well so there is no separate isolator as it was in the old National Luna type systems.
 
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