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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
DISCLAIMER - I've never done any brake work.

Using the how-to's here and the Haynes guide, I just replaced my front rotors and brake pads with EBC rotors and green stuff pads.

I just did a drive around the block and...well, the X still stops. So that's good.

But I keep hearing what sounds like a rubbing / dragging noise. Is that normal for the first few miles? I haven't done the full 'bed in' procedure yet.

Also, I had the brake fluid cap off when compressing the calipers, and it over flowed some. No worries, I had a friend there sopping it up when needed.

But now, I notice the brake fluid reservoir is higher than the 'full' line, which is where it was before, I think. The fluid level sits right below the cap.

I'm planning on doing a flush anyways, but is that OK in the meantime? Do I need to worry about it overflowing or bursting or something? The pedal definitely feels softer than before.

Thanks for any help guys - looking for some re-assurance I haven't totally messed up.


EDIT - Also perhaps worth mentioning. I noticed on the X's brake pads there were metal brackets (for lack of a better word) on the side of each pad. The new pads didn't come with those. I assumed that meant to re-use the ones on the X's pads. I'm thinking now that may have made the difference by adding an extra 8th of an inch or so which is what's making the new pads rub?
 

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new pads, especially EBC, will make noise when first being broken in. EBC pads have a special "break-in" coating applied to them to help aid in the break in period. As for your brake fluid, just make sure the level is between the minimum and maximum level. Its not going to hurt anything being higher than that, but you should get it to where its within the suggested levels. Those "metal brackets", yes you need to reuse them.

Replacing brakes is a pretty straight forward procedure...its kind of hard to screw it up as long as you put it back together the way it came apart, except with the new parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok - the drag might be due to too much fluid?

When I first started, no drag. But by the time I went around the block a couple times, it was there. Should I grab a turkey baster and suck some fluid out?

I guess what I don't get is why there was the 'max' level of fluid in there before, and now it's over the max line - without adding any fluid. If anything, there should be less, based on some of the brake fluid overflowing when compressing the calipers.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
new pads, especially EBC, will make noise when first being broken in. EBC pads have a special "break-in" coating applied to them to help aid in the break in period. As for your brake fluid, just make sure the level is between the minimum and maximum level. Its not going to hurt anything being higher than that, but you should get it to where its within the suggested levels. Those "metal brackets", yes you need to reuse them.

Replacing brakes is a pretty straight forward procedure...its kind of hard to screw it up as long as you put it back together the way it came apart, except with the new parts.
Also I want to make sure I'm clear on the metal brackets. I don't mean the ones that hold the pads in place, rather the ones that are about the length of the brake pads, and clip on to them.

Thanks again for any advice!
 

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The ones that clip on are to help prevent brake squeal. For over full fluid, I have never seen that cause an issue except for making a mess when compressing calipers( the same issue you had).

I am not familiar with EBC to know if those backing plates need to be reused.
 

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you should use the factory hardware (backing plate and retension spring) with the ebc pads. Did you read the paper that came with the pads? it says some brake noise (including dragging) is normal for the first 2-300 miles while the break in stuff wears off. I literally just replaced my front brakes and rotors with ebc last week. And i agree with snowtrout, overfilled fluid will not cause dragging. did you re-lube the caliper slide pins? if not that could cause dragging, or possibly a siezed caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
OK awesome - I did read the paper, and then promptly lost it, of course.

I replaced all the hardware except those backing plates, and definitely re-lubed the caliper slide pins..So that *should* be ok.

Does anyone know the torque specs for the 19 mm bolts that holds the caliper brace and caliper together?

Also, that dragging / rubbing sound happens when driving..not when applying the brake.
 

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Hey Canuck! Glad to see you got the job done.

As others have mentioned, its doubtful brakes would stick / drag with an overfilled brake reservoir.

That being said, personally, I would remove (with a turkey baster) the excessive fluid. Brake fluid will heat up and expand somewhat. You're already at the top, which leaves it little place to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Good to know - I just drove to the gym, and the sound only seems to be coming from the drivers side. A constant whirring, like when something's stuck in the calipers. Happens regardless of speed. Wondering the rotor is off somehow or something.


Also - it doesn't make any noise in reverse. It really sounds tom e like metal on metal rubbing. So strange its only on one side. Wish I had a garage (or driveway) where I could jack it up easy and take the wheel off for a look.
 

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Good to know - I just drove to the gym, and the sound only seems to be coming from the drivers side. A constant whirring, like when something's stuck in the calipers. Happens regardless of speed. Wondering the rotor is off somehow or something.


Also - it doesn't make any noise in reverse. It really sounds tom e like metal on metal rubbing. So strange its only on one side. Wish I had a garage (or driveway) where I could jack it up easy and take the wheel off for a look.
Hey, Canuck -

I did the same work with the same exact parts just yesterday, and I'm getting the same noise.

I'm betting it's not driver's side only - just that you can't hear it on the passenger side. Try driving along a fence or wall slowly with passenger side window down and driver's side up - I bet you'll hear same noise from pass side (I do).

I'm not gonna sweat it. As the guys above have noted, the break-in coating is likely the culprit. If it's not gone (or at least dwindling) in a couple hundred city miles, I'll start wondering about it then…

Keep me posted on your progress and I'll do the same.

Cheers!
 

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Slotted rotors?

Forgot to ask - did you install the slotted rotors? I did, and that's what I'm attributing the noise to. It would make sense that the whirring noise would be caused by the uniformly spaced slots, no?

Again, guessing that once the break-in coating is gone, the noise will be gone as well...
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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If your brakes are dragging there are normally only 2 things that cause it, a caliper in need of repair, or break hardware. Since your caliper worked fine before I find it highly unlikely that it became an issue now. More than likely you didn't properly clean the break clips and lube them before re installing. This is a common newb issue, more then likely your brakes will drift to center and stop dragging. If they do not, you need to tear them back apart. Pull the brake clips, the thin pieces of metal the pads ride on, and clean them with a wire brush and alcohol until they shine. If you have a rotary tool this will be easy, it you don't I am sorry. Then apply a thin coat of break grease to both sides of the clips and re-install. Also, if the caliper under the clips is too dirty it can cause the clips to not seat correctly, causing the pad on the clips to not seat correctly. Basically, anything that interferes with the movement of the pads as they "float" off the rotor will cause the problem you have. Also, least likely possibility is that your rotors are warped. Should not be because they are brand new, but if nothing else fixes it, or if you have them off again for service. Bring them by Orielys, or any parts shop that can turn rotors, and ask them to verify that they are flat.
 

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Yep slotted rotors, basically these guys:
http://www.carid.com/2005-nissan-xterra-brakes/ebc-usr-series-slotted-brake-rotors-4257450.html

I had all the windows down and my GF in the passengers seat, and she also said it sounds like it was coming from the drivers side and not her side.

I'll just have to keep listening for it. DI did dn't have enough time to put the rear rotors and pads on, going to hopefully get that done this week. Did you replace all 4 rotors too?
Yep, I did pads & rotors on all 4 corners.
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A turkey baster is part of my toolbox for working on brakes. I suck out as much of the old fluid as I can from the reservoir before I start, and again after I compress the calipers.

After putting the new pads in, I grab an assistant to help me flush and bleed the brake lines, starting with the rear passenger side, the rear drivers side, then front passenger side, then front drivers side, in the order of the longest to shortest brake lines. Everybody really should bleed and flush the brakes every two years, because brake fluid will suck the moisture right out of the air over time, and its water in the brake fluid that corrodes and damages the hydraulics....and can boil and form voids (bubbles) in the lines when the brakes get hot.

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Discussion Starter #18
I put a little grease on the brackets / clips that hold the pads in place. Just on the parts where the pads contact the bracket, not on the back of the bracket where it contacts the caliper itself. Maybe not enough grease? I'll give it a few more days.

If your brakes are dragging there are normally only 2 things that cause it, a caliper in need of repair, or break hardware. Since your caliper worked fine before I find it highly unlikely that it became an issue now. More than likely you didn't properly clean the break clips and lube them before re installing. This is a common newb issue, more then likely your brakes will drift to center and stop dragging. If they do not, you need to tear them back apart. Pull the brake clips, the thin pieces of metal the pads ride on, and clean them with a wire brush and alcohol until they shine. If you have a rotary tool this will be easy, it you don't I am sorry. Then apply a thin coat of break grease to both sides of the clips and re-install. Also, if the caliper under the clips is too dirty it can cause the clips to not seat correctly, causing the pad on the clips to not seat correctly. Basically, anything that interferes with the movement of the pads as they "float" off the rotor will cause the problem you have. Also, least likely possibility is that your rotors are warped. Should not be because they are brand new, but if nothing else fixes it, or if you have them off again for service. Bring them by Orielys, or any parts shop that can turn rotors, and ask them to verify that they are flat.
 

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Guys, when you compress the calipers you should be removing the extra fluid out of the bleeders on the caliper, you should not press the fluid back into the reservoir as you can "potentially" ruin a seal in your master cylinder be forcing the fluid back through it (can potentially reverse the seal and make it faulty). It's not going to happen every time, and maybe it hasn't happened to anyone, ever on this forum; but it is just a safety precaution, the bleeders are there for a reason.

Good luck on the noises though!!
 
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