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Discussion Starter #1
Just a few questions I've wondered after owning my X for two months...

How come no one makes a "hook" type device similar to the front hook that bolts up on the frame to one side of where the tow hitch bolts into, this would serve as a cheap rear recovery point without reducing too much departure angle?

How come no one makes a dual battery set-up for the Gen II X's?

Is there a perfect set-up for lifting my X 2" and retaining the factory type ride with no down-sides (like I did on my old Jeep Rubicon with the Old Man Emu coils and shocks, I know we don't use coils but rather a set-up that allows for a mild lift while maintaining or even improving upon the stock ride without any concern over any contact of parts or other unwanted issues)?

Has anyone "proved" that if I don't extend the rear axle breather lines water will get in and caused damage (not stories but documented proof)?

What happens if I only attach the Shrockworks skids without drilling a hole in the frame (and why hasn't anyone invented skids that attach to the frame and don't require drilling, Jeeps have tons of company's which do this)?

You know the plastic piece on the fron of the X above the bumper and below the hood left and right of the Nissan emblem (not the grill itself), where can I get without having to paint myself, a replacement that is either black or matches the stock front bumper?

Thanks,

a PROUD Xman!
 

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Ok, a lot of those questions can be answered with some searching, but here goes.

I don't know why someone doesn't make a matching hook for the other side. My guess, because they couldn't sell enough to make it worth it.

You need space to put a 2nd battery. Take a peek under the hook, there is no room. If you want to put the battery in the back (about your only choice) you can use any number of universal dual battery setups.

There is no "perfect" lift, some come close. If you want to retain the stock ride, I would go with a spacer lift in the front and shackle lift in the rear. With this combo, I would also add the Timbren (sp?) rear bump stops.

No, but I can prove that you can run deep water and mud with not breather problem. I never extended mine.

Drill the holes, it's easy. Jeeps don't need to drill holes (in most cases) because there are already enough holes for mounting skids. Nissan only give you the holes for the stock skids (not enough for real skidplates).

As far as I know, you have to paint it yourself.

If you bought the X with the idea that there are as many aftermarket components as a Jeep, you will be very disappointed. Jeeps have 300 page catalogs with nothing but aftermarket jeep parts. Even including the 1st gen X's, you would be hard press to fill 20 pages of stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response Jason, much appreciated.

One clarification, the hook arrangement I was referring to is for the back of the vehicle rather than the front. A hook (like the one located on the front of the X) bolted up to the frame in the rear I think would be a great item to have because it would not stick out as far as the stock tow bar thus decreasing departure angle.

Also, I believe that I've read here that with the spacer lift in the front you may have contact with the UCA's (I may be wrong), I'm looking for a 2" lift without such issues. May be possible or not.

Lastly, I guess I will find a location in the back of the X for a second battery, I really would love the additional capacity without running cables down the length of the vehicle. Oh well.

Thanks again.
 

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Ah, well, there is someone who is seeing if they can get a hook in the back mounted to the frame. The problem I see is it will be hidden up behind the bumper and when trying to recover could rip the bumper off. Personally I like the tow hitch. Easy centered recovery point and it protects the bumper (my stock bumper was all smashed up from before I had the hitch.

A 2" spacer kit should have no contact. a 2.5" will have moderate contact, over 2.5" and you will pretty much be banging away as you go down the road.

The one kit that I have not heard anyone talk about UCA contact is the Daystar spacer kit. It's pricey though.

Well, again, for the battery, even with running gel cells and turning them any which way you can, there is just no room in the engine bay for a 2nd battery. You might be able to make room over by the air box if you went with an open element intake, but I still don't know if it will be enough room.

I don't run a lot of electronics (headunit (no sub), car computer and inverter), I only have one set of aux lights (55W hella's on the bumper) and a 9000lb war winch. I ran the stock battery with no problems for over two years. Sure a dual battery setup might be nice, but unless you plan on winching your way though the trails, I am not sure if it's needed.
 

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:clown: --God thats funny-"winching your way thru traffic"--I've been there--

--Jolly good shew Muzik !!

-- :geek: :geek: --JIMBO
 

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07BlackOR said:
Is there a perfect set-up for lifting my X 2" and retaining the factory type ride with no down-sides (like I did on my old Jeep Rubicon with the Old Man Emu coils and shocks, I know we don't use coils but rather a set-up that allows for a mild lift while maintaining or even improving upon the stock ride without any concern over any contact of parts or other unwanted issues)?
OK, I had my X lifted several inches by Spencer Low at SLR. It's a better than stock ride, seriously. The only downside is price: you're looking at 5K or so front and rear.

My set-up runs 2.5" Kings all around, Titan lower arms, fabbed uppers, a Deaver replacement spring pack, and extended front half-shafts. Even with the sway bars removed, the stability on and off road is excellent. The front suspension devours whoops especially.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That's my 5 foot wife at Bear Mountain NY last weekend for Oktoberfest, I told her that I was taking her picture but she quickly figured it out. :tongue:
 
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