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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys - I've been getting a clicking noise that I'm about 99% sure I've narrowed down to the intake door motor. The gears are plastic, so I'm guessing the door is stuck and the gears keep turning and end up slipping teeth and making a really annoying clicking sound. This happens every time I start up of the vehicle or if I cycle the air-recirculation button.

My question is: Has anyone experienced this issue before and been able to fix it outside of going to the dealership. The FSM says the fix is to replace the entire heater and cooling unit assembly...a $1200+ fix. No thanks. I saw a forum post on this same issue almost exactly 1 year ago and the fix was to basically cut the wire that controls the motor. (Link here: http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51198 )Certainly that fixes the clicking but I'd like to be able to find a solution that doesn't permanently disable the air intake. Otherwise, depending on the door position when the wires are cut, I could end up unable to de-fog my cab in the winter.

Any advice or wisdom is appreciated. Thanks guys!
 

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I have the answer, but it's not good news. I had the same problem awhile ago and was able to fix it myself. Unfortunately, I had to completely remove the dashboard and have the AC system purged. I did replace the vent door motor, but I think it was trimming the plastic on the cylinder shaped door that actually fixed it. It has been trouble free since then. I'm sure I have pictures of the dash removed, but I don't think I documented what I trimmed. I'm pretty sure someone else on here suggested the fix to me. I'll try to find the other post.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
A couple questions:

I've never removed the whole dashboard before...only the center console to replace my stereo. If I decide to go in and try to fix this, will I really need to purge the A/C system? I've not done that before and I'm less confident in my ability to do that compared to just removing the dash.

The other question is how difficult it is to get to the intake motor after the dash is removed. I'll probably buy a replacement motor even though I may not need it (as you say, it might just be trimming some stuff on the existing one). Do you have any pictures that could help?

Thanks!
 

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I'm not computer savvy enough to post the pics I have but will be happy to e-mail them to you. Someone that gave me suggestions was able to gain access without discharging the AC. I could not, so I took it to a shop down the street, had them empty the refrigerant, then they refilled it when I was done. It took a little extra and the AC blew colder afterward.
 

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dash removal

The factory service manual was very helpful. I used a clipboard and lots of ziploc bags to record and organize each set of fasteners removed in the order I removed them. I also wrote down every electrical connector that I unplugged (e.g. radio = 4 plugs). At assembly time, I just crossed them off as they were re-installed, ensuring I didn't have any parts left over from deep inside the dash. It was a big job, but didn't require any special skills.
 

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Having the same issue man. Took out the lower/upper compartments today and removed the blower motor to discover this is the same problem I have. Clicks annoyingly for a good 5 seconds every time the key is in the on position.

If someone could further describe where to trim on the cylinder plastic area and if this can be done without removing the entire heating/cooling assembly, that would be fantastic! I just can't justify going through all this effort to get rid of the noise by replacing the Intake Door Motor. I'd rather just cut the wire but don't want to disable the ability to have fresh air.

For now I just have the connector unplugged and my passenger dash half apart, but obviously I'd like to put everything back together within the next day or 2.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Having the same issue man. Took out the lower/upper compartments today and removed the blower motor to discover this is the same problem I have. Clicks annoyingly for a good 5 seconds every time the key is in the on position.

If someone could further describe where to trim on the cylinder plastic area and if this can be done without removing the entire heating/cooling assembly, that would be fantastic! I just can't justify going through all this effort to get rid of the noise by replacing the Intake Door Motor. I'd rather just cut the wire but don't want to disable the ability to have fresh air.

For now I just have the connector unplugged and my passenger dash half apart, but obviously I'd like to put everything back together within the next day or 2.
Just wondering if you've dug in and tried to fix this. I haven't torn anything apart yet, but I'm thinking I might give it a shot on a weekend in the near future.

My biggest concern is why its required to drain the AC if all I'm doing is replacing the intake door motor. If anybody has some knowledge on this issue I'd like to hear it.
 

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All I've done since then was re-assemble everything and leave the recirc on. Had other things to focus on and didn't like driving around with the passenger side all disassembled. I still want to know if it is possible to do this required trimming with everything still in the car.

Have no desire to take the heating/cooling assembly out but the noise is very annoying! Sick of this **** lol.
 

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This may not help, but in another car I own with a similar setup the rotating door would not move. I assumed it was electrical and took everything apart to find out that part of an acorn had gotten past the intake air screening and was jamming the door. In that car i was able to put it on recirc and stick my hand in. Once I pulled that out all was good. Perhaps you can get things open enough from inside where the intake air filters go to vacuum or blow compressed air in to see if it can be freed?

Good luck.
 
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