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Zanethan mentioned something that may be in your benefit.

With a new Frontier on the way, Nissan will soon be tossing out some exceptional deals on the current Frontiers.

Even if a new Frontier is not available soon, Nissan will still have some good end of year rebates.
 
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Thanks for empathizing... I really am numb and in shock.... I had plans to keep this car for 200,000 clicks...

No idea what to do now... Feel like a lost zombie...

Thought about an FJ Cruiser, but they don't even make those anymore either ! ... (And definitely not in stick-shift ...)
This always sucks to hear/see. Especially when it happens to such a rare truck. Before you accept Geico's payout, do some research on values of your truck, in excellent condition, from several sites (KBB, NADA, Edmunds). You have the option to tell them the amount your car was worth. As long as you keep it fair and insist on the valuation, they are likely to give you closer to the true value. They go off of sales records of "comparable vehicles" within a set distance. A P4X manual with only 48k on the clock is going to be very hard to find a comparable sale, so they'll expand their search by adding in automatic transmissions and increasing the mileage to, for example, 75k. As to see the comp sheet, so you know what they are comparing, and offering you payment for. I had a rare Volvo that got totaled years ago. Insurance couldn't find another S6 R-Design with 30k on it, so they included base model S60's with up to 90k and offered me almost $20k less than my car was actually worth. When it was all settled, They gave me $3k less than I asked for.

If you like the cargo space of the Xterra, then don't even think about an FJ Cruiser. Realistically, they have like half the space of an Xterra, unless you fold the rear seat down.

I'd do what others have suggested and find something equivalent and use the money from insurance to buy it and drive it home.
 

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Sorry for your loss.

The only vehicles that is comparable 4Runner. If you’re interested in a small pickup truck the ZR2 Colorado and Gladiator should also meet your needs. The gladiator can still be had with a manual.

Again, sorry bud. I love my X as well but at this point cherish the memories you had with it and move on from this one. You can still find a good example of an Xterra, but it might not be worth it vs purchasing a new vehicle.
 

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A last year of production model. Sorry, that hurts, but IMHO, take the money, salvage the aftermarket parts you cared about, and get a new one. It will take a bit of time, but you may end up with a better one?
Have you considered getting a rust-free from the West Coast and make it a road trip?

I used both SearchTempest and AutoTempest to find mine.

I'd recommend that you cast a wide search (don't use their filters) and look/filter all the results manually as some people have a tendency to check the wrong boxes: ie: the box is checked for automatic, but the pictures show a manual.

Here is a 2015 Pro-4X manual 81K miles for ~$22K:
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Or a 2014 Pro-4X Manual 61K miles and upgraded suspension for $23K:
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Finally, always make sure to run your own carfax report. I've personally experienced that nice Lexus GX470 single owner carfax with 52K miles to be a 2 owner with 220K miles when I ran my own carfax ;-)

Sorry for your loss & Best of Luck for your search
 

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Man that really sucks. So sorry for you. Some good advice here though from a few folks on moving forward.

salvage the aftermarket parts you cared about
Not sure how it works with a totalled out car, if you are able to part it out or not. I am in the Hudson Valley and in the market for several used parts. PM me if you are interested in selling off some of her to live on in another.
 

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Man that really sucks. So sorry for you. Some good advice here though from a few folks on moving forward.



Not sure how it works with a totalled out car, if you are able to part it out or not. I am in the Hudson Valley and in the market for several used parts. PM me if you are interested in selling off some of her to live on in another.
Depends on where the vehicle currently is and how cool the shop is if it’s at a shop. Some shops will also not allow you to remove parts once in their yard.

The insurance company just wants a complete vehicle. It doesn’t matter if the parts are OEM or aftermarket. When my 2011 was totaled out I pulled of 90% of my aftermarket parts and put on the stock cut up parts. No issue on them taking the vehicle. Now if you try to give it to them with a missing bumper they will likely deduct value. That’s why I always hold on the my original parts if possible. Never know when you’re going to need to go back.
 

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@CanXterra this really sucks man. My heart goes out to you--this was something totally out of your control.

Without looking underneath it, I'd be really hesitant to try repairing it. To have someone else restore it to it's former glory will likely cost more than it is worth. If you do the work yourself you could probably turn it into a reasonable trail rig, but it's not going to be worth or look like what it was.

Depending on what buy back is, you could probably part out certain things and make money on that. I'd buy the folding front passenger seat from you. Parting it out opens up a whole lot more headache though, unless you enjoy that kind of thing.
 

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Sorry for your loss. These cars are rare so it may be hard to find exactly what you want without traveling.these are all under your budget though. Might be more closer to you. I know that if anything happened to my X id be looking across the country.




 

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What is the cost to buy it back?
Do you have a place to store a parts vehicle?
What is your main purpose of the X?
 

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As an insurance adjuster, the comps have to be fair. We got people all the time that will find the most expensive similar veh across the united states and ask for that amount. Remember just because something is listed at a certain price doesn't mean it is worth that. Prices are negotiable. $23K for a 6 year old SUV sounds really fair.
 

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Sadly this is something I've been apart of myself and it still haunts me that I let it go and didn't fight for a higher payout or for them to fix my last X.
My last X was in a very minor accident and they totaled it due to the frame issue that was valued at a 8500 fix. My millage was at 75k. The damages were something I laughed at...and easily expected a quick turn around from a collision shop with insurance...nope. Total loss!? I also had Geico!
I deduce insurance companies like Geico don't mess around to much with a (wrongfully so Nissan...) discontinued vehicle and the value to get its parts for repair?
I'm not an expert in this field but I wanted to share my respect for your situation....and show how minor damaged end a great thing.

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Sorry this happened and best outcomes moving forwards.

I learned one big thing from this, moving on helps and that's something that wont come easily or quickly. I got a new X and told myself I'll paint it red, I'll get this and that....I was trying to rebuilt what I lost. Don't do that as it'll haunt you. I've since accepted my new Silver X for what it is and now I almost couldn't see myself in a red one. Haha. I think it's because I let the past go as hard as it was...Move on, get something new, enjoy a new chapter in your automotive life brother! :)
 

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Sadly this is something I've been apart of myself and it still haunts me that I let it go and didn't fight for a higher payout or for them to fix my last X.
My last X was in a very minor accident and they totaled it due to the frame issue that was valued at a 8500 fix. My millage was at 75k. The damages were something I laughed at...and easily expected a quick turn around from a collision shop with insurance...nope. Total loss!? I also had Geico!
I deduce insurance companies like Geico don't mess around to much with a (wrongfully so Nissan...) discontinued vehicle and the value to get its parts for repair?
I'm not an expert in this field but I wanted to share my respect for your situation....and show how minor damaged end a great thing.

View attachment 131074

View attachment 131075

Sorry this happened and best outcomes moving forwards.

I learned one big thing from this, moving on helps and that's something that wont come easily or quickly. I got a new X and told myself I'll paint it red, I'll get this and that....I was trying to rebuilt what I lost. Don't do that as it'll haunt you. I've since accepted my new Silver X for what it is and now I almost couldn't see myself in a red one. Haha. I think it's because I let the past go as hard as it was...Move on, get something new, enjoy a new chapter in your automotive life brother! :)
I mean, if your frame was bent or damaged then they did the right thing by totaling it out. My 2011 was rear ended and it bent the rear of the frame. Was still 100% drivable and my wife and I still took it on vacation (700 miles of driving) before I let them take possession of it. Sadly so much of our economy has become disposable and cars are not safe from that phenomenon. Frame repair shops don’t readily exist anymore so they had to replace the entire frame (I suspect your story is similar). It an unfortunate side effect of mass production. Not sure what year your X was but as I mentioned earlier mileage doesn’t add as much value as one would think, especially if it’s so low that comps aren’t available for a decent comparison. Add to that increasing labor rates (especially for paint work) and it’s easy for a minor fender bender to total out a 10 year old vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
I went to the tow pound today to strip what I could from her. Had a lump in my throat the hole time. Crazy. It's hard to say goodbye.

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Thank you all for your moral support. It helps.
 

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The reason also we move to total vehicles is body shops. They quickly ramp up the costs of repairs. Body shops are free to charge whatever they want. We have to pay whats fair and reasonable for an area. Shops are banding together and charging outrageous fees for repairs. We litterally have to pay a fee for a tech to wheel the welder over to the car. (Welding setup charge.) We then have to pay for weld porosity test. Weld joint knockdown test or something like that. Panels that will take a tech 2-3 hours of labor to repair were usually paid at 6-7 hours. Now shops demand 17-18 hours. Mask jambs, mask electrical connections, color match, denib and polish, feather prime and block. We have to about $375 for them to check for any pending codes after a repair. If it has parking sensors and/or radar cruise, add another $700 for reprogramming to that. They are forcing "COVID Disinfection Fees" on insurance companies. Shops are driving up the cost of insurance since the public perception is if insurance balks at a repair cost or charge they are just being cheap and not wanting to pay. It is very common to have a shop run repairs right up to or just beyond ACV.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
On a related note, I suppose I now have some perfectly great after-market Xterra Items to part with...

I of course took both amazing running-boards/step-rails. I've loved these. Used them almost every week loading & unloading my Mountain-Bikes / Snowboards/Skis They've been amazing and I'd highly recommend them. As an aside, they also make your X looking really freaking cool, too.

Mine are brushed silver and in great shape, but here's the link https://www.amazon.com/Westin-22-5060-Oval-Tube-Step/dp/B001721KZY/

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Here are some older shots with the steps rails in place ..
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PM me if interested... You'll get a sweet deal!
 

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The reason also we move to total vehicles is body shops. They quickly ramp up the costs of repairs. Body shops are free to charge whatever they want. We have to pay whats fair and reasonable for an area. Shops are banding together and charging outrageous fees for repairs. We litterally have to pay a fee for a tech to wheel the welder over to the car. (Welding setup charge.) We then have to pay for weld porosity test. Weld joint knockdown test or something like that. Panels that will take a tech 2-3 hours of labor to repair were usually paid at 6-7 hours. Now shops demand 17-18 hours. Mask jambs, mask electrical connections, color match, denib and polish, feather prime and block. We have to about $375 for them to check for any pending codes after a repair. If it has parking sensors and/or radar cruise, add another $700 for reprogramming to that. They are forcing "COVID Disinfection Fees" on insurance companies. Shops are driving up the cost of insurance since the public perception is if insurance balks at a repair cost or charge they are just being cheap and not wanting to pay. It is very common to have a shop run repairs right up to or just beyond ACV.
It would be really nice if all the insurance companies got together and came up with a flat rate fee for things just like warranty work. The body shops won’t touch anything but insurance work anymore so if that’s what their business is based on you would think the insurance companies would hold the cards.
 
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