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Discussion Starter #1
:rockin:hello everyone, my name is Nathan. I am a new xterra owner (less than three months) and I have been researching endless things about what I want to do to my 2011 xterra. it's a 4x4 S model. I need some help with maybe level of priority.

here's what I want to accomplish first:
shrock sliders
shrock bumpers (front and back with tire carrier)
shrock skids
285/75r16 tires

now, to the part where I have no idea the level of importance:
suspension lift and/or body lift (I definitely want to upgrade to the PRO-4X Bilsteins, so I figure if I am getting new suspension, should I get bigger suspension too and a BL at the same time?)
I want to get the titan front and rear diff, but do a pathy axle swap v8 so I don't have to have that extended axle in the front. (I want the locking diff)

so I hear a lot about "add-a-leaf" and people putting Alcan springs on and everything...I guess my main question is (probably very controversial), if my goal is basically getting better off roading suspension (definitely doing Bilsteins in the front), then I just want to know a good rear-style suspension to do. I want it to hopefully be decently cheap but still a reasonably good and sturdy suspension. for the whole set up of the suspension, I am hoping to spend less than $1,800-2,000. anything less than that is definitely a plus.

I know this is a lot, but I know that a lot of you on here are xterra veterans and probably dream of building these things in your garage with your bare hands! any help would be 100% great!
:rockin:
 

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Your going to get a million different answers here. I don't mind my Bilsteins, I have them front and rear. Set to 1 inch of lift on the front the ride is a little bouncy at highway speed occasionally since down-travel is nonexistent with this setup. Other than that the ride is much better than stock. I also have a 2" body lift and adjustable shackles. Combined with the bigger tires its a good bit taller than stock. Not an optimal setup, but it is an affordable setup that can be upgraded down the road. It provides a comfortable ride on the rocky roads trails near me, and allows for enough clearance for just about any moderate to hard trail I have ever tried.

If your willing to spend a little more cash the front suspension is where you should dump it. Upgrade your control arms and get some high quality coilovers like the new radflos. For the rear you cant go wrong with the alcans.

Good luck figuring everything out! :drink:
 

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as far as suspension goes, i wouldnt waste the time going to the pro4x suspension if you want to add all that armor, it wont support the weight. you have a couple options and i would recommend looking at others build threads and see what they did, and how they like their setups. if you are looking at the bilstein 5100 shocks for up front, DONT. they ride like crap when lifted, so youll end up replacing them with something else very soon after. i would suggest looking at ome HD full suspension front and back with the full HD leaf pack. if its not enough lift you can always add to it with spacers(and Upper Control Arms) for the front and adjustable shackles in the rear. You can definetly go cheaper on the suspension, the ome stuff will cost you about $1200 for the front and the rear.
http://nissteclifts.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=58950&category_id=173&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=72
if you dont want to go all out, i would get the OME shocks and HD springs for the front, and do an add a leaf on the rear, but if your rear suspension is already worn, the AAL wont give you a whole lot of lift and will sag.

the 285 tires wont need a body lift, they fit at stock height with what we call a melt mod, you just heat up the plastic and push it out of the way and the tires will clear just fine.

i dont think you will need to do a titan swap right away, thats definetly low on the priority list, most only do it for the added width and more importantly the additional travel.

if you want a locking axle, go for an arb locker. its alot stronger than the stock stuff and alot less work.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
hey man I appreciate all of the thought you put into all of that. the link you sent is the same idea of Rescue911 and I do like that idea. my suspension isn't sagging or anything. its a 2011 and I am pretty sure I was the first person to take it off road lol. and I realize that the shrock front bumper is around 138 pounds, and the few skids I want probably equate to around 40 or more pounds so I am definitely adding around 180 pounds on my vehicle at all times. with that said, I would definitely go with the OME 608 heavy lift (90-175 lbs) to help support my heavy habit! does that OME kit come with control arms?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have the ome lift from nisstech and love it. I have added adjustable shackles and a 1 " spacer and it's 3 in front, 4 in the back of lift.

The deanver leaf pack is great

http://nissteclifts.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=58951&category_id=173&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=72

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hey thanks for the link and thanks for the reply. I appreciate you using your knowledge to help teach me something!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Your going to get a million different answers here. I don't mind my Bilsteins, I have them front and rear. Set to 1 inch of lift on the front the ride is a little bouncy at highway speed occasionally since down-travel is nonexistent with this setup. Other than that the ride is much better than stock. I also have a 2" body lift and adjustable shackles. Combined with the bigger tires its a good bit taller than stock. Not an optimal setup, but it is an affordable setup that can be upgraded down the road. It provides a comfortable ride on the rocky roads trails near me, and allows for enough clearance for just about any moderate to hard trail I have ever tried.

If your willing to spend a little more cash the front suspension is where you should dump it. Upgrade your control arms and get some high quality coilovers like the new radflos. For the rear you cant go wrong with the alcans.

Good luck figuring everything out! :drink:
yes I definitely agree with you. I don't want to keep replacing suspension every year because of it being cheesy. suspension is too expensive to waste money on, you have to invest it wisely. thanks for your input buddy. and good choice on the soda-looking beer. that's exactly what my beer looks like when I pour it in a mug ha.
 

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I would start in a MUCH less expensive way and wait and see if you really need stuff like the bumpers. I have Alcan rear springs (2.5" lift, 450 lbs overload), PRG 2" spacers upfront, sliders and 265/75/16 DuraTrac's. This will get you damn near everywhere. Skids add a LOT of weight as do the bumpers. But if you want to look cool then go for the bumpers, etc.

Toy Man
 

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These is my collective opinion based on what makes sense and my experience off-roading as well as the 15+ hours of researching my build.

1st Priority - Body lift. This is inexpensive but very time consuming; it took me 16 hours by myself to complete it. I could do it in probably 5-6 now; and even less if you have an after market rear bumper because you have to grind down a lip and drill new holes in the bumper. This is the first because most people will want this after they compare the same suspension with and without a body lift.

2nd Priority - Sliders and skids; same time. Sliders and skids are second because the sliders come in two flavors, w/ or w/o body lift. If possible, do BL, sliders, and skids at the same time.

3rd Priority - Tires; stick will 285/76/16 (33's) or your differential will most likely fail much quicker than if you stick with 33's. While you will get 35's to work and it will cause you to use more skinny pedal which will put more torque on the diff and cause the eventual pre-mature failure you probably don't want.

4th Priority - Suspension; this is where you get the Front Suspension, and Rear suspension setup completed. Get what you want because the front end will transfer over with the TS. I'm going with the SAW 2.0 from PRG with a 2" spacer on top. The hard part is determining if you're going to get the UCA's or just deal with the limited downtravel using bump stops. This is completely up to you; if you find a good set of used ones and want to run that while you piece together the TS, then go for it; otherwise, you will end up spending $450+ for a set and maybe getting $350 out of them; if it's worth it, do it, otherwise don't. I get the 2" spacer in order to get the height and maintain my ride quality on the road, while still having the down travel I want/need for what I wheel. Also, the P4X suspension doesn't offer anything for lift, only for on/off road ride quality.
For the rear, the AAL is really just a bandaid you put on bad leaf springs, but a good interim solution. The preferred route, if your wallet will allow, is to get them custom made for your ultimate applicate through Alcan, and getting a set of shocks to go with it. If your ultimate goal is 4" of lift, getting 3-5" lift rear shocks will be your preferred route in order to preserve ride quality and still get good flex, or downtravel; I believe this size is only offered through radflo though, which are $400 compared to $225 for Bilstiens.

5th Priority - TS. I'm going with a TS on my r180 diff with the extended axles until it blows up. I figure I can get the extended axles and get a good m205, rebuild it, and hopefully get it locked (if ARB goes on with long term production of the locker) so it is an easy swap once the r180 grenades. Most of the front suspension units will swap between the Xterra and Titan front ends, so you can really use any front suspension lift components; you can build your front end on the Xterra side, the transfer to the TS.

6th Priority - F/R Bumpers. Bumpers, imo, are less important because if you mess up your stock ones, you can get replacements SUPER cheap, AND you're just going to replace them in the long run anyway. The only one that you MIGHT want to get beforehand, which is what I'm doing, is the rear bumper simply for the built in receiver for towing.

I hope this helps answer some of your questions.
 

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3rd Priority - Tires: stick will 285/76/16 (33's) or you will grenade your differential.

This is a false statement. Poor driving will grenade a differential, not tires larger than 285/75/16.
 

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:rockin:hello everyone, my name is Nathan. I am a new xterra owner (less than three months) and I have been researching endless things about what I want to do to my 2011 xterra. it's a 4x4 S model. I need some help with maybe level of priority. here's what I want to accomplish first: shrock sliders shrock bumpers (front and back with tire carrier) shrock skids 285/75r16 tires now, to the part where I have no idea the level of importance: suspension lift and/or body lift (I definitely want to upgrade to the PRO-4X Bilsteins, so I figure if I am getting new suspension, should I get bigger suspension too and a BL at the same time?) I want to get the titan front and rear diff, but do a pathy axle swap v8 so I don't have to have that extended axle in the front. (I want the locking diff) so I hear a lot about "add-a-leaf" and people putting Alcan springs on and everything...I guess my main question is (probably very controversial), if my goal is basically getting better off roading suspension (definitely doing Bilsteins in the front), then I just want to know a good rear-style suspension to do. I want it to hopefully be decently cheap but still a reasonably good and sturdy suspension. for the whole set up of the suspension, I am hoping to spend less than $1,800-2,000. anything less than that is definitely a plus. I know this is a lot, but I know that a lot of you on here are xterra veterans and probably dream of building these things in your garage with your bare hands! any help would be 100% great! :rockin:
Hey there,
I have a few thoughts for you, What type of Wheeling do you do? If it's mudding you'll be set up a little different than rocks.. The Pathy Axle shafts are hard to find and really expensive.. There's nothing wrong with the Bilsteins I have that setup on my kids X with an OME, he's been with us at goneMoab and done a lot of trails out there with no issues.. He's also completely open which we'll be changing this winter..
Personally speaking if your willing to spend up to 2K on the suspension you've got some really good options, if I were you I'd look at Nisstec they have some good options and reasonable prices.. If you have any questions please feel free to PM me
Bill
 

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With steady on this. Sliders are the first thing I got, I still have stock skids which have been fine. Then I went tires/ suspension ,

Everything I have bought has been used but not that old , there is always someone selling parts. I have saved about 1500 dollars and I haven't even had to ship anything. I did get lucky on the tires/suspension deal though.

Be patient and don't rush.

Bumpers are my last priority

I am saving for skids now.

If you X doesn't have skids you could buy used pro4x skids. They will take decent abuse . All depends on how much and what type of wheeling you plan on doing.



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3rd Priority - Tires: stick will 285/76/16 (33's) or you will grenade your differential.

This is a false statement. Poor driving will grenade a differential, not tires larger than 285/75/16.
You are partially correct. If you go with 35's, you will HAVE to use more skinny pedal to get over obstacles instead of crawling, causing more torque, causing....BOOM!

While poor driving will cause failure much sooner, it will happen sooner than if you had 33's. My research has not yielded much for destruction on the front diff with 33's; however, I have seen a few where this has occurred. I will updated my original post to further define what I'm writing here. :D

Sn0
 

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:rockin:hello everyone, my name is Nathan. I am a new xterra owner (less than three months) and I have been researching endless things about what I want to do to my 2011 xterra. it's a 4x4 S model. I need some help with maybe level of priority.

here's what I want to accomplish first:
shrock sliders
shrock bumpers (front and back with tire carrier)
shrock skids
285/75r16 tires

now, to the part where I have no idea the level of importance:
suspension lift and/or body lift (I definitely want to upgrade to the PRO-4X Bilsteins, so I figure if I am getting new suspension, should I get bigger suspension too and a BL at the same time?)
I want to get the titan front and rear diff, but do a pathy axle swap v8 so I don't have to have that extended axle in the front. (I want the locking diff)

so I hear a lot about "add-a-leaf" and people putting Alcan springs on and everything...I guess my main question is (probably very controversial), if my goal is basically getting better off roading suspension (definitely doing Bilsteins in the front), then I just want to know a good rear-style suspension to do. I want it to hopefully be decently cheap but still a reasonably good and sturdy suspension. for the whole set up of the suspension, I am hoping to spend less than $1,800-2,000. anything less than that is definitely a plus.

I know this is a lot, but I know that a lot of you on here are xterra veterans and probably dream of building these things in your garage with your bare hands! any help would be 100% great!
:rockin:
You definitely took in too much information :D But that's perfectly alright, it happens to all of us, especially at first.

I have not read everyone else's posts in detail, but I think I can offer some advice. First of all, ask yourself what you're going to be willing to put your truck through on the trail. Additionally, if you haven't already, get your truck out there on the trail a few times while it's still stock. Get a feel for it and it will help you decide how you want to build your rig.

Out of all that armor, sliders and/or skids should be first priority if your planning to wheel your truck and not destroy your rocker panels, doors, and main components under your vehicle. They are your protection.

Next should be some sort of suspension lift, for multiple reasons. One, it improves your performance on the trail giving you more ground clearance, and most cases more wheel travel/articulation. Two, throwing all that armor on your rig will sag the life out of your stock suspension, especially if you wheel it. So why not have a beefier suspension to be able to handle all that extra weight? With this suspension lift should come the bigger tires. As far as the rear goes, I've seen a lot of complaints about Add-A Leafs sagging over time, but seems a solid option if you're trying to save some coin.

Take some time and really figure out what's available to you. A body lift will only offer aesthetics (looks) and more space to fit a bigger tire. I'm neutral when it comes to body lifts, you can find reasons to like them or find reasons to not like them. Again it depends on your build and what you're trying to accomplish. IMO if your planning to wheel a suspension lift should come first.

So, if I could do it all over again I'd go

1)Skids & Sliders
2)Suspensions Lift & Tires

3)The order doesn't really matter from here on out. You can throw on the bumpers, but I'd even consider some breather mods (CAI, headers, exhaust, etc.) before the bumpers to help compensate for your truck being heavier and slower once the bumpers go on. Build your rig to cater to you and your lifestyle. If you haul a lot of gear, maybe look for a roof rack or cargo rack.

And do some more research on the Titan stuff to get a better understanding. If you run the m205 (Titan Diff) then all you have to do is run Titan half axles, no Pathfinder anything. And if you want that diff to lock, you'll have to buy that separately as they only come from the factory open (not locked). You would not need an actual rear diff/axle out of a Titan either. You can swap in an m226 rear axle (which comes from the factory on the Xterra Off-Road/PRO-4X models) to match the Titan front diff. With your X being an S model, you have a c200k rear axle. The guys with the c200k that have Titan Swapped and did the driveline swap have went from the c200k to the m226.

Hope this helps. Take your time, stay safe, and good luck.

- Joe
 

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You are partially correct. If you go with 35's, you will HAVE to use more skinny pedal to get over obstacles instead of crawling, causing more torque, causing....BOOM!

While poor driving will cause failure much sooner, it will happen sooner than if you had 33's. My research has not yielded much for destruction on the front diff with 33's; however, I have seen a few where this has occurred. I will updated my original post to further define what I'm writing here. :D

Sn0
I still disagree. Premature failure is not a forgone conclusion and it is not fair to say that failure will happen sooner vs. a 33" tire. This is simply just not true. I wheeled across the country (Moab, Rausch Creek, Tennessee) with 35" tires and an R180 and had zero issues. Diff care is solely on the driver and their ability to control their vehicle speed and hopping while off-road. Poor driving will grenade a diff on 31"s, 33"s, or 35"s.
 

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You are partially correct. If you go with 35's, you will HAVE to use more skinny pedal to get over obstacles instead of crawling, causing more torque, causing....BOOM!

While poor driving will cause failure much sooner, it will happen sooner than if you had 33's. My research has not yielded much for destruction on the front diff with 33's; however, I have seen a few where this has occurred. I will updated my original post to further define what I'm writing here. :D

Sn0
Wow, you obviously know zero about the physics of what's going on or the conditions by which one actually explodes a diff.

Tire spin is the worst enemy, not tire size. We've run 35's on the M226 (there are several different varieties of this exact axle, not just the Nissan, but also the Jeep and the Isuzu) with no problems. It's how you drive, not what you drive. So the generic statement of "if you run over 33's you'll explode" is crap.

And you've only performed 15 hours of research on your build? Holy crap, I've spent more time than that designing the winglets on a custom bumper, let alone research on an entire build. When you get over 1000 hours, feel free to speak with authority on a couple of subjects. When you get past a couple thousand hours, and get past a body lift, well, I guess we can cross that bridge when you get there.

But your advice/information on the axle frailty is incorrect.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hey there,
I have a few thoughts for you, What type of Wheeling do you do? If it's mudding you'll be set up a little different than rocks.. The Pathy Axle shafts are hard to find and really expensive.. There's nothing wrong with the Bilsteins I have that setup on my kids X with an OME, he's been with us at goneMoab and done a lot of trails out there with no issues.. He's also completely open which we'll be changing this winter..
Personally speaking if your willing to spend up to 2K on the suspension you've got some really good options, if I were you I'd look at Nisstec they have some good options and reasonable prices.. If you have any questions please feel free to PM me
Bill
hey, thanks for the respond my friend. the main type of wheeling i will be doing is trails; to include mild rocks, sand, slight mud, and that's about it. no mud bogging so no need for mud terrains. i am thinking of tire upgrade and sliders and skids definitely, but i do realize that when adding 50-75 pounds of plates on the bottom, it wears a suspension out. especially the shrockworks front bumper that's 138 pounds!! that's over 200 pounds i am adding to my vehicle before i do any loading if i go on a trip! lol crazy
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'd get tires first. Then sliders and skids

Then you can go almost anywhere and be safe doing it . Then you can get te rest of the stuff as you need it in any order you want


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thanks for the input. i do agree, and those are probably the first few things. my only question is why shrockworks has an option on their sliders for with or without a lift? do the ones with a lift sit lower to the ground?
 
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