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Discussion Starter #1
Well I think something in my rear axle is jacked up.

I have the standard c200k. It is clunking bad, it rattles the entire car and sounds like a hammer hitting metal.

It seems to only do it around turns when I hear the bang. My X is lifted and sits on heavy 33" tires.

Could it be the rear diff? I thought the axle was loose and it was shifting on the leaf springs but that is not the case.

I need some advice. The sound is real bad and scares the hell outta me when it happens which is every turn.

I need advice :crybaby:
 

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Well, what have you done so far?

Do you have a shrock or heftyfab gas tank skidplate?
Get under the truck and check the upright support for the skidplate right beside the driveshaft.
This is what you would be looking for:



If that does not yield results, we need much more information to diagnose the issue. But start there. While you are under the truck, check for any other issues. Your post honestly doesn't provide a ton of information. Have you jacked the truck up and tried to recreate the noise (i.e. shook the tires etc)? Have you looked under the truck at all? Have you drained the rear diff and checked the oil?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Well, what have you done so far?

Do you have a shrock or heftyfab gas tank skidplate?
Get under the truck and check the upright support for the skidplate right beside the driveshaft.
This is what you would be looking for:



If that does not yield results, we need much more information to diagnose the issue. But start there. While you are under the truck, check for any other issues. Your post honestly doesn't provide a ton of information. Have you jacked the truck up and tried to recreate the noise (i.e. shook the tires etc)? Have you looked under the truck at all? Have you drained the rear diff and checked the oil?
Okay ill try and be more descriptive. I have no skid protecting, just the items I have listed in my signature section.

I have been under my truck. There is very little play in the drive shaft so I dont think it is u joints. My truck just clicked 60k today on the odometer. I checked for leaks at both axle ends and I did not see anything.

I have not jacked up the truck yet because I dont have the stuff needed at home. What I did to replicated the sound was I went into a parking lot, cut the wheels both left and right and accelerated with my head hanging out the window looking at the rear end.

I can hear and feel the noise, the rear tires seem to skip a beat when turning and accelerating. Which leads me to believe my rear diff is done for. Under straight line acceleration I get nothing but when I turn it, it really clunks because the rear tires are rotating at different speeds?

It has been going on for a few weeks no but the clunk was happening maybe once a week. Now its bad to the point I cant drive it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am having trouble locating this information. My front and rear gear ratios are 3.13 right?

My X is none OR, has a auto tranny and 4x4
 

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Yes, you have 3:13 gears.

Also, given that description...drain the diff dude. It will take you 5 minutes to do this. Just run to auto zone and by a couple quarts of 75W90 diff fluid. (They sell Mobile 1, Royal Purple, or even just generic auto zone brands) Have those on standby and get a drain pan under the diff. Make sure the pan is clean, no other fluids at all, drain the diff and take some pictures. That will tell you instantly if the diff is bad or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, you have 3:13 gears.

Also, given that description...drain the diff dude. It will take you 5 minutes to do this. Just run to auto zone and by a couple quarts of 75W90 diff fluid. (They sell Mobile 1, Royal Purple, or even just generic auto zone brands) Have those on standby and get a drain pan under the diff. Make sure the pan is clean, no other fluids at all, drain the diff and take some pictures. That will tell you instantly if the diff is bad or not. Given what you described, I'd put money on your diff fluid looking like the Terminator melted into a puddle and drained out of it.
Well I think you are correct even though I have not done this. I will tomorrow.

I need a new rear end so I want to explore my options. The c200k has no options for a rear gearing and I would love 3.69:1. So I want to find a m226...but what are the rear ratios?

I found a thread listing it all in the past but cannot locate it now. I know the OR and manual edition xterras have the m226 but the ratios differ in them.

If I can find a m226....which seems impossible.....I can not use the 4x4 until I match the front gear ratio...is this correct..


Side not....is this a good deal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Xterra-Rear-Axle-Assembly-NEW-OEM-43003-EA000-/300963920479?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make:Nissan|Model:Xterra&hash=item4612d8fa5f&vxp=mtr
 

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OR Manual will be 3:69, OR auto will be 3:36, S,X,SE Manual will be 3:54, and then there is the 3:13s. Somewhere in 05, there were some variances that I do not know about. I have seen several members post that there were differences in 2005, but I have yet to find any evidence that supports that.

And yes, you have to match the front. If you want 3:69s you will need another R180. If you get 3:36 though, you could always try for an M205.
 

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for that ebay ad, from outward appearances, yes, it does look like a good deal. It's a brand new C200 with 3:13 gears that is in the pictures. So long as that is what you get and you can get it for around a grand then ya, not to bad.

Do keep in mind though, I bought a M226 from a junk yard with like 1000 miles on it. I paid $1500. I know this is "brand new" but he has no more proof than a junk yard does.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OR Manual will be 3:69, OR auto will be 3:36, S,X,SE Manual will be 3:54, and then there is the 3:13s. Somewhere in 05, there were some variances that I do not know about. I have seen several members post that there were differences in 2005, but I have yet to find any evidence that supports that.

And yes, you have to match the front. If you want 3:69s you will need another R180. If you get 3:36 though, you could always try for an M205.
Yes but arent 3.69 gears made for the r180....ruggedrocks has some i thought.

What I am thinking is if I can source a m226 with 3.69 in the rear already and just not engauge the 4x4 until I match the front...is it possible?
 

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3:69 gears are stock, so yes, of course they come in the R180. Rugged rocks has nothing to do with it. Stock Xterras will have these in them, it's just a matter of finding one.

And yes, you could run missmatched gears so long as you did not engage 4WD.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
3:69 gears are stock, so yes, of course they come in the R180. Rugged rocks has nothing to do with it. Stock Xterras will have these in them, it's just a matter of finding one.

And yes, you could run missmatched gears so long as you did not engage 4WD.
good deal. I live in Milwaukee Wisconsin. There doesnt seem to be many bone yards around here. Can I order a m226 directly through Nissan? Where can I find one aside from a bone yard?

If I am going to working on the rear end, I want to do it right. I have about $1,500 to spend on this but need my truck running soon.

Should I just lock the c200k, keep the 3.13 and call it a day....or spend the money and find the m226?

Not in a million years did I think my rear end would go before the front.
 

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Well, to be honest, you're way ahead of yourself. Save the $1500 and just go spend $15 and drain the diff. THEN really start to game plan the whole rear axle deal. At this point you still don't know if your axle is bad or not.

For the sake of speculation though. I'd buy an M225. Again, if you really wanted, you can actually order a brand new M226 through JerseyParts. Just PM/Call him and discuss ordering it from him. That is where I would spend my money...but you will end up spending more than $1500.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, to be honest, you're way ahead of yourself. Save the $1500 and just go spend $15 and drain the diff. THEN really start to game plan the whole rear axle deal. At this point you still don't know if your axle is bad or not.

For the sake of speculation though. I'd buy an M225. Again, if you really wanted, you can actually order a brand new M226 through JerseyParts. Just PM/Call him and discuss ordering it from him. That is where I would spend my money...but you will end up spending more than $1500.
Ya I havent drained the diff but I know that rear is completely gone. If you could feel it while driving you would know what I am saying.

You have any idea how much a new m226 would run?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Well I found a 2009 rear axle off a 6sp O/R with 42k on it for $823


So I am thinking buy that axle and install 3.69 gears upfront. I'd be under $1500

Can I wire the e-locket in my X?
 

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Dude.....
Yes I have an idea how much an M226 would cost, I've bought two of them. I actually posted the price for you a few posts back (this is the price I paid, everyone will very) I also told you how to get the quotes from Brian/jerseyparts for a brand new one.

Also, yes, you can wire the locker up in the truck. Search. I have done an entire how-to on the rear axle swap, wiring the locker, and everything that goes along with it.
http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60959

You may want to find a front diff before you buy that axle, those aren't overly common. Seriously tho, drain the diff. You never know.
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Discussion Starter #16
Why an entire front diff?
 

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Because it is a whole hell of a lot cheaper than regearing. If you can find 3:69 gears, then you can find an R180 with 3:69 gears in it. No involvement of other shops etc, you just unbolt the old R180, sell it, and bolt in the new R180 with 3:69 gears in it to match your rear axle. Again, 3:69 gears are stock. If you plan on paying a shop to pull the 3:69 gears from a stock R180 and install them in another stock R180, knock yourself out, but you'll spend more than just buying a used R180 with 3:69 gears in it. ....unless you know how to set gears?
 

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You guys are still going at this?

Kill, you can lead a horse to water...

If your pocket is burning with the money it in to swap out a whole axle and regear both, go at it.. Else listen to Killswitch, drain your $#|+ and pull the cover off. Inspect for metal shavings and if you really want to, follow his advice and buy both, sell yours and your done in a weekend.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I won't be able to drain the diff until Tuesday. I had to engage 4x4 just to get the X to move so I think we already now what is inside the diff.

Here is my confusion. Buying 3.69 front gears and having them installed is less then getting buying a while new diff with them already in?

You guys are still going at this?

Kill, you can lead a horse to water...

If your pocket is burning with the money it in to swap out a whole axle and regear both, go at it.. Else listen to Killswitch, drain your $#|+ and pull the cover off. Inspect for metal shavings and if you really want to, follow his advice and buy both, sell yours and your done in a weekend.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
Posted via Mobile Device
 
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