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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
This is where things really got difficult for me. Trying to figure out how to adapt the connector under the steering column so the steering wheel could interface with the rest of the vehicle electrical was a bit of a guessing game I'm afraid. I'll have to consider it a work in progress for now.

131945


On a final note, the illumination looks nice. At least that works properly.

131946
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Electrical confuses the hell out of me, and the switch part is still beyond my ken. I have the diagram for it, but I just don't understand enough of the overall process to make it work. If anyone knows how to translate this into laymen's terms, please let me know.

131947
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Looks like:
-Pin 1 is power in
-Pin 2 is activates the relay
-Pins 3/4 are for backlights I believe
-Pin 5 looks like a feedback from the relay to turn the "heated steering on" light on the switch
-Pin 6 is ground
View attachment 131807
So would this work if I connected #1 Green to a fuse in the fuse box beside the glove box, #2 Blk/Red to a fuse in the IPDM? What do number 3 & 4 connect to? Is there a particular power source they should run to? #6 I would just ground to the frame, but I have no idea where I would connect #5 Brown.
 

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Those Kryptek seat covers look custom made, great upgrade. I'm a fan of that pattern too, was going to recover my headliner in it! Heated steering wheel is an awesome idea, at this point I'd settle for just having heat in my X :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Those Kryptek seat covers look custom made, great upgrade. I'm a fan of that pattern too, was going to recover my headliner in it! Heated steering wheel is an awesome idea, at this point I'd settle for just having heat in my X :)
Thanks, I'm really pleased with the seat covers so far.

A few years ago, I got minor frostbite on both of my index fingers. It never used to bother me that much, but as I've gotten older it has become more of a problem. Now I lose circulation in those fingers at the drop of a hat, and it's very difficult to get back. Having the heat directly on the steering wheel where I need it the most is a godsend. I recommend that mod to anyone who lives in a cold climate. Only do it properly, not the gong show that I've gotten myself into.
 

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So would this work if I connected #1 Green to a fuse in the fuse box beside the glove box, #2 Blk/Red to a fuse in the IPDM? What do number 3 & 4 connect to? Is there a particular power source they should run to? #6 I would just ground to the frame, but I have no idea where I would connect #5 Brown.
this is what I would do:
131970


As a general rule you never want full amperage going straight through a switch.
Switch activates the relay.
I'd put the relay and switch power on a source that is only on with ACC. Straight to the battery would work too and would allow to heat the steering wheel without the keys in, but IMO it's too easy to forget it on and drain the battery.

For the switch backlight, you could run a separate circuit, or you could even splice it in a known backlight wire that feeds the rest of the dash. You can really wire this one however you want,: you could wire them to ACC to always have the backlight on, or you can even leave those empty if you don't want the light on.

Pin #5 is similar, it only turns on the lower portion of your switch when the heater is actually on. I don't think you have to wire it in if you don't want to.

From the wiring diagram it looks like the steering wheel plug has 2 wires, one coming off the relay, and one to ground
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Much appreciated RoadKiller2006! I'm going to attempt this on Monday.

In other news, I have the Radflo's ordered which will hopefully be here by the end of March. If everything goes well, I'll have the Bilstein 5165's ordered on Monday. I just need to confirm a couple details on size and valving with the vendor first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Finally found out what the problem was with the heated steering wheel. I gave up and took it in to a professional and this is what he found.

When my connector was repinned by the original owner to get the command start and stereo installed, the cruise control ground and the audio ground were side by side in the harness.

When the audio ground was repurposed to carry power for the heated steering wheel, when heat was turned on the current was high enough that it created a field which interfered with the cruise control ground and one of the audio power wires. He was able to solve this by adding an additional ground for the cruise control to the steering column in the same way the audio is now grounded.
So now the heated steering wheel works exactly as it should, with no interference with the cruise control or steering wheel audio controls.
132632

And thanks to RoadKiller2006, I have the stock Nissan switch controlling it. It looks very clean and purposeful now, which is pretty important to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
And I also got the headlights upgraded to LEDs.

132633


I know, I know, a lot of people think the halos are cheesy, but I like them. I'm pretty happy with how they turned out. I retrofitted LED bulbs for the headlights, and it was a mixed bag. The low beams are fantastic, probably the best vision I have ever had on the road. The high beams however were a disappointment. At their very best, at the most optimal adjustment I can manage for them, they are only not quite as good as the low beams. They just scatter light everywhere and the beam pattern is so dispersed they are of little to no value.

The simplest solution is to replace the high beam LED's with the highest quality halogens I can find, but I'm not sure if I'll ever get around to doing that. I've got a lot to learn about electrical to get to the point where I can do that swap by myself, and I don't fancy the idea of paying someone else to do it.

So the next step is to get working on the gear loft for the back seat and cargo area. I'll make the forward mounting brackets on Monday and hopefully by the webbing and mesh cloth Monday evening or Tues after work. In the meantime, the Radflo's are projected to arrive in mid-March and the Bilstein 5165's for the rear should be in before then.

Slowly going through the list of necessary parts. I guess the next thing I should be looking at is some camber bolts and then maybe some off road rims before tackling the front and rear bumpers.
 

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I appreciate being able to follow your upgrades as they happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
In order to reduce the covid risk, the boss said I would be working from home three days of the week. He also said that I would be going down to Louisiana for about six weeks in mid Feb. I figured I was going to get all sorts of work done on the rig before leaving. Yeah, didn't happen.

I did get a couple of things done though. A local fabricator made some aluminum skid plates for an Xterra that got written off before he could make delivery, so he was looking to cut his losses. I was able to take them off his hands for a very reduced price.
134498
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I know aluminum skid plates aren't everyone's cup of tea, but my biggest problem is going to be tree roots and other pieces of wood, not boulders and rocks. And I'm really trying to keep the weight reasonable, so aluminum armour suits my needs very well. I'll be getting a rad skid plate with the Coastal Offroad front bumper, so I didn't buy one from the fabricator.

I'm going to have to get the rig back over to Geoff The Wrench's garage and put it up on the lift to fit up the skid plates and count how many new holes I am going to have to tap and drill. While I'm there, I think I might replace all the bolts underneath with a pan head, hex bolt that is less likely to snag on the odd rock I do come across.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I also took advantage of the drawings posted on 29erClan's page about the aluminum molle door panels. The aluminum itself was pretty cheap, and I have a friend with a C&C machine who did the cutting cheap like borscht.
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I made a very slight screw up with the plans on the front panels, as they are about 1/2" narrower than the original spec, so I have to trim off the little horn on the top of the panel on the latch side of the door. I also need to grind and smooth the rough edges on all the cuts and give them a paint job to match the interior of the truck. I'll probably paint them a flat black so they match, but still pop a little against the dark grey. So that should keep me busy for the next couple days before I go back to work on Monday.

I got a pay raise in addition to some surprise back pay that gave me a nice little bonus to this month's pay check. That will allow me to finally purchase the front and back bumper kits, so it's time to get serious about finding a local TIG welder who does good work at a fair price. I should have enough money left to also order a new set of rims. My plan is to put some street tires on the stock rims, and buy a set of five off-road tires on a lighter aftermarket rim and swap them out just prior to each backcountry trip. I want to be able to get all of this work done before we get too deep into summer, so I'll put in those orders on April 1st once the bonus cheque is safely in the bank.

My radflos have finally shipped and should be here sometime next week, so that leaves just the Bilstein 5165's somewhere out there in No Man's Land. I sent an e-mail to Essex Distributors to find out when they anticipate delivery, but I haven't heard back from them yet.

There is also some work on an extended gear loft I'm trying to make that I hope to get done this weekend, as well as finding a place that can make me some extended brake lines for the rear. My preference is to get new lines, but if I can't find a place here in town to do that, then I might just make a Surf n Snow type bracket and reuse my stock lines. Watch and shoot on that one.

So yeah. No rest for the wicked, not this weekend at least.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
CAF back pay? :)
TOTALLY!!!!

Not looking that gift horse in the mouth, let me tell you.

For the cost of the welding I'm currently pricing out "friend of a friend" welders and confirming their Apr-May availability. TBH, my bigger concern is finding someone who really knows how to TIG and does good work. I am prepared to pay a higher price for quality. I am just still in the process of finding out what the market rates are right now, so I can effectively judge if a price is either too low or too high.

On a side note, when I was in the states I had to do all my banking and e-mails on my phone in the rare opportunities that I could get connectivity in the shacks. I will never do that again. Since I'm expecting delivery of some struts, I wasn't suspicious when I got an e-mail from Canada Post saying they tried to deliver a large package, but no one was home and I had to pay a $2.89 rescheduling fee. Had I seen this on my desktop computer, it would have shown the origin e-mail account and I would have known it was a fraud. But my crappy little cell phone e-mail app doesn't do that, so I was fooled. I gave up my credit card info. Thankfully, I caught it in time and had the card cancelled before the crooks were able to make any purchases, but that means I have to wait until the new card arrives before I can make all that back pay disappear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
So these arrived...
134641


So now I'm just waiting for the 5165's to come in. Essex Distributors finally got back to me, but with zero information. They said the struts were still on backorder and they sent an e-mail to Bilstein asking for info. Well, that's what they told me in January so I'm no further ahead.

I guess that's the way it is with parts. No matter who you order from, or what you order, they will get there when they get there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
It's all coming together. The tires have arrived at Geoff The Wrench's shop, and the rims should be in by mid month. I was finally able to order the front and rear bumpers from Coastal Offroad today and the search for a welder is in full swing. I've got my short list, so once the parts arrive from CO, I'll have the diagrams and can get detailed estimates from the welders I've contacted and can make final arrangements.

Getting down to the short strokes now. TBH, I'm a little nervous about it. My biggest fear is that I'm going to be elbows deep on the day of installation, have the suspension all torn apart, and discover that I'm missing a vital part that isn't locally available at any price and has a three week lead time. Here is my list of items I believe I need:

Bumpers & rock sliders: on order
Radflos w/ springs: check
Bilsteins: check
Rims for off-road: on order
Tires for off-road: check
New cam bolts: check
AAL with bolt up: check
Bracket for adjusting mount of rear brake lines: check

I hope I'm not missing anything!

The next step is to see if I have enough money left over to buy the Gobi ladder and the snorkel ahead of schedule, but those will have to wait until I know what my welding costs will be. I can re-examine those and a winch once I have some cost certainty on the bumper fab.
 
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