How-to: VIAS Rattle Fix
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Neat write up, and were it not for my reluctance to drilling into something I know nothing about, I’d have done it already.
But... does anyone know of any other epoxy that can be used in place of the 3M scotch weld DP-190 that the TSB calls for?
For instance, JB Weld is infinitely more accessible and in my very humble experience has worked wonders for... epoxying stuff.
Any thoughts?
I’ve got the front timing chain cover pulled off of my X this weekend, figured I’d do some gluing while I’m in there.
But... does anyone know of any other epoxy that can be used in place of the 3M scotch weld DP-190 that the TSB calls for?
For instance, JB Weld is infinitely more accessible and in my very humble experience has worked wonders for... epoxying stuff.
Any thoughts?
I’ve got the front timing chain cover pulled off of my X this weekend, figured I’d do some gluing while I’m in there.
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I ended up using JB Weld when I epoxied my VIAS last year. If you decide to go that route, use the original JB and not quick weld. It cures to a higher tensile strength and make sure you let the epoxy cure before you start the truck up. Haven't had any issues and I haven't had the VIAS rattle since.Neat write up, and were it not for my reluctance to drilling into something I know nothing about, I’d have done it already.
But... does anyone know of any other epoxy that can be used in place of the 3M scotch weld DP-190 that the TSB calls for?
For instance, JB Weld is infinitely more accessible and in my very humble experience has worked wonders for... epoxying stuff.
Any thoughts?
I’ve got the front timing chain cover pulled off of my X this weekend, figured I’d do some gluing while I’m in there.
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545 Posts
So I’ve been thing to do this on my 05 X SE. I got the four screws out of the VIAS housing as per the TSB... BUT... It just won’t come out! It’s like it’s glued in there and I don’t want to put too much force on it and end up braking off the actuator or something expensive. Any ideas? Hoses were all detached and the air induction bracket removed for clearance.
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About to tackle this myself one of these evenings after work and curious if this is glued in the housing? If it is, I'd almost say its worth it to just do drill and bolt method in post one.
Edit: maybe this link will help? Link
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im going to be fixing this this weekend( its driving me crazy the past month or two--06 just under 150k).
my only question is do we HAVE to use the 3m epoxy stuff. I know its what the TSB says but com'on do we always do everything the exact same way Nissan does?
my understanding is the reason they suggest this particular epoxy is due to its vibration resistance. but as lng as its in there good and no glue or epoxy is going to crack/ flake off id think it'd be ok..right?
I saw a post by another member, maybe in a different thread about using lock tite or something and he reported it having no issues a few years later.
my only question is do we HAVE to use the 3m epoxy stuff. I know its what the TSB says but com'on do we always do everything the exact same way Nissan does?
my understanding is the reason they suggest this particular epoxy is due to its vibration resistance. but as lng as its in there good and no glue or epoxy is going to crack/ flake off id think it'd be ok..right?
I saw a post by another member, maybe in a different thread about using lock tite or something and he reported it having no issues a few years later.
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I dd the VIAS fix per the TSB, just went ahead and bought the danm dp190. ill report back after driving a bit to see if it made a diffence in sound.
The job itself only took bout 30 mins and was not too hard for someone that is mechanically inclined and or worked on an X before.
after doing the valve covers i feel like most other stuff is nothing!
The job itself only took bout 30 mins and was not too hard for someone that is mechanically inclined and or worked on an X before.
after doing the valve covers i feel like most other stuff is nothing!
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This may be a stupid question.
I understand following the TSB essentially bonds the Vias control solenoid to the intake manifold.
In addition, it's come to my understanding that most of the Xterra/Frontiers which develop this problem have more than a few miles on their engines.
With this in mind, I ask why would you wish to permanently affix a used part with potential wear onto your intake?
Has anyone attempted to fix this problem by installing a new Vias control solenoid?
If the rattle continues, you could always follow the directions from the TSB, but you would be using a new part with hopefully a longer life.
Ps: you can order 3M Scotch Weld DP190 from
Walmart https://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-DP190...3696&wl11=online&wl12=154884610&wl13=&veh=sem
Newegg https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...a-I9Z2TP-_Y3czPll9IaAh9YEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
I understand following the TSB essentially bonds the Vias control solenoid to the intake manifold.
In addition, it's come to my understanding that most of the Xterra/Frontiers which develop this problem have more than a few miles on their engines.
With this in mind, I ask why would you wish to permanently affix a used part with potential wear onto your intake?
Has anyone attempted to fix this problem by installing a new Vias control solenoid?
If the rattle continues, you could always follow the directions from the TSB, but you would be using a new part with hopefully a longer life.
Ps: you can order 3M Scotch Weld DP190 from
Walmart https://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-DP190...3696&wl11=online&wl12=154884610&wl13=&veh=sem
Newegg https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...a-I9Z2TP-_Y3czPll9IaAh9YEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Good questions.
I haven't actually looked into the price of a new valve itself. however the valve isn't the issue, they seem to be very robust and unlikely to fail. the valve itself has very few moving parts and is controlled by vaccuum, so there is little to fail. for all i/we know the root of the issue could be the valve housing on the inside of the intake, which if the tolerances on that have become out of original spec(therefore allowing the valve to vibrate) then replacing the part might not solve the issue.
I'd assume that If Nissan could just sell a replacement part(at profit), they would do so.
Also I don't think that this stuff is necessarily permanent. you could probably pry the valve out even after doing this. I left some of the epoxy on the bench overnight with a nail in it that I used to help with application, and this morning I was able to pull the nail out of the dried epoxy. Once dried it has a somewhat pliable consistency which is why i suppose Nissan specifies its use, to better maintain adherence in a high vibration environment. It's my belief that the issue may be caused by high frequency vibrations caused by the intake sequence or other resonance within the intake manifold. since the part is held in by screws, the epoxy is not holding it in place, but instead acting as a buffer to vibrations and preventing the valve from making and breaking contact with the housing, which is what produces the audible rattle sound. which makes me also wonder if there was any performance loss and or gain after doing the fix, if the valve wasn't held tightly in the manifold maybe it was letting air by when it was supposed to be closed.
I bought the 3m dp190 gray on amazon, it was a few dollars more the walmart but free shipping...not much of a difference overall.
on the replacement of the Vias control solenoid, I did a little looking into how much it would cost to replace instead of fix. what i found out is that the solenoid is actually a different part that is outside of the intake manifold separate from the valve and could be replaced regardless of the fix and is not related to the vias rattle. the solenoid is what directs vacuum pressure from the engine to and controls when the valve opens/ closes vias little rubber hoses. A quick google of vias control solenoid shows a few results for $50-60, so it could certainly be replaced if it was an issue. however I didn't find any hits on the actual valve itself, I suspect this may have to be sourced directly from nissan?
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Question answered.
Good info regarding the epoxy test.
Good info regarding the epoxy test.
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I did this. Rattle went immediately away.
Then it came back about a month later. There's $60 I'll never get back. This was about a year ago. Depending on my emotional state and the frequency of the rattle, I may still epoxy the s**t out of that bugger.
I did it the other day with JB weld. It significantly reduced the rattle but it is still there. I might drill into the valve like the original post did. Has anyone else tried it?
I did the TSB and used the 3M DP-190 adhesive epoxy. I work in the sign industry and use these types of adhesives. I would think the use of the specific 3M DP-190 gray (vs the DP-190 clear which has a slightly different set of specs) has a lot to do with temperature range and with its ability to “stretch” which ultimately means vibration resistance. The 3M DP-190 has a handling time of about 6-10 hours depending on ambient temps. It also has a full cure time of 7 days and slightly strengthens over a period of a few months. If you only wait the two hours that Nissan says, the adhesive will still be a toothpaste consistency.
I plan on adding something like the screw the OP installed. So I will update when I get to do that. Just figured I would offer this info as it may be useful.
Damn you @mtnbound, now I am going to have to get the epoxy and try this as the VIAS rattle is bothering me more an more
Just received the new valve today and after reading this thread I expect the noise to come back shortly after installing the new one …lol waste of 60 bucks
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Did just replacing the vias alve with no epoxy work?
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