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So my suburbanite, asphalt, concrete and garage dwelling lifestyle ‘15 X with very little mileage sees this thread, should it care? Is it good preventative maintenance or simply a waste of time if the rigs never gotten properly dirty?
It's a waste of your time if if never gets dirty.
 

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so my 2007 with 146k miles just started having an issue with fillups. Gas pump stops after a gallon. This has happened 2x in a row. Different pumps. So from what i have read, there is a nissan bulletin that applies to my truck BUT i'd rather fix myself then have them get their hooks into my xterra or say that the hose is not totally plugged and charge me 300$ and not fix a thing. The dealer is also 45 minutes away from me so i'd have to take 1/2 day off work. who wants to do that. so i have no codes. jsut the fillup issue. it is safe to say messing with the canister itself won't cure me or will it? from the bulletin they are doing something with the hose between the fuel tank and the canister. They also say to let the fuel go below 1/4 before bringing it in. Is that because gas will leak out if you dont? Wouldn't my fix maybe be just cleaning out the house between the fuel tank and the canister?
 

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You need to drop the canister, blow it out, get some 1/2 gas hose, run it up to your tail light and put the Uni 1/2" push in filter on it. Clean the solenoid, and douche it with WD 40, check to see that it works and reassemble the thing. It takes about an hour.
 

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That corrugated line w/ the clips was a PAIN for me. Think I spent nearly an hour trying to get that undone...
 

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how do the hoses get clogged up? is there something open in the system? From what i have read in the FSM, there is a vent tube from the upper fill tube area that goes to the top of the gas tank. But as far as anything else, i didn't see where something could get plugged up? And people say spiders can build a nest and block? where? also, the last posted said to extend a hose to behind the tail light. I am assuming he is extending a hose that is open to the atmosphere and that is the point of entry for dust/spiders/whatever? If so, where is that end of the hose? I have not taken it apart yet but am planning to this weekend. i am hoping it's just a spider sac in that hose end- if that is possible????
 

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I had another thought, which may or may not get shot down here but I thought I'd toss the idea out. Instead of performing an out right bypass, what if the vent tube going from the gas tank to the center of the canister was re-routed to a T connector spliced into the extended breather tube for the vent control valve....anyone think that might aid in allowing the air in the tank to escape outwards versus back up the fill pipe causing premature fuel pump shutoffs? Basically I'm thinking it would be like a bypass without actually removing the canister and having to plug the lines and cap the exposed electrical plugs. I'd still have a light(which I don't really care about honestly) and "hopefully" be able to fill the tank normally(all I care about)

What if you put a check valve between the T Connector and the extended breather? If we know how much pressure/vacuum is required for the system check, then a check valve with the correct spring pressure would still allow for normal operation, but also allow excess air to be expelled from the tank via the breather, bypassing the evap canister. Just my .02.
 

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how do the hoses get clogged up? is there something open in the system? From what i have read in the FSM, there is a vent tube from the upper fill tube area that goes to the top of the gas tank. But as far as anything else, i didn't see where something could get plugged up? And people say spiders can build a nest and block? where? also, the last posted said to extend a hose to behind the tail light. I am assuming he is extending a hose that is open to the atmosphere and that is the point of entry for dust/spiders/whatever? If so, where is that end of the hose? I have not taken it apart yet but am planning to this weekend. i am hoping it's just a spider sac in that hose end- if that is possible????
It sounds like you haven't gotten a code (P0448) but your symptoms are similar, so cleaning things out and installing a filter may help, and can't really hurt.

Dust, most likely, is what is clogging things up. The end of the hose connects to the frame, which is hollow, with plenty of holes for more dust to get in. It's a bad design if you take your vehicle on dusty roads.

You need to blow the dust out of the canister and the valve, and ideally place an air filter (breather element or similar) on the end of the hose. I opted not to extend the hose up into the tail light area and it has worked fine for me, but some people do extend the . I blow the dust off the filter every year or two when I drop the spare tire to make sure the hoist mechanism is working good.

Here's another useful thread. Note that IMO it's easier to remove the canister than try to work with it in place:

My post showing the filter setup I opted to use:
 

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how do the hoses get clogged up? is there something open in the system? From what i have read in the FSM, there is a vent tube from the upper fill tube area that goes to the top of the gas tank. But as far as anything else, i didn't see where something could get plugged up? And people say spiders can build a nest and block? where? also, the last posted said to extend a hose to behind the tail light. I am assuming he is extending a hose that is open to the atmosphere and that is the point of entry for dust/spiders/whatever? If so, where is that end of the hose? I have not taken it apart yet but am planning to this weekend. i am hoping it's just a spider sac in that hose end- if that is possible????
Ya'll are making this way too hard. Read the how to threads, and spend the 15$ on hose and this filter: Amazon.com: Uni Filter UP-123 1/2" Push-in Breather: Automotive


What if you put a check valve between the T Connector and the extended breather? If we know how much pressure/vacuum is required for the system check, then a check valve with the correct spring pressure would still allow for normal operation, but also allow excess air to be expelled from the tank via the breather, bypassing the evap canister. Just my .02.
Fixed this particular issue before have ya?...... Ya, didn't think so. 15$ for 4 feet of gas hose and that above linked filter to extend the stupid asses Nissan excuse for a "filter system" and it's problem solved.

There are plenty of threads right here on the New X to explain how it's all done, find 'em read 'em and fix it. It's pretty simple.
 

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Fixed this particular issue before have ya?...... Ya, didn't think so. 15$ for 4 feet of gas hose and that above linked filter to extend the stupid asses Nissan excuse for a "filter system" and it's problem solved.

There are plenty of threads right here on the New X to explain how it's all done, find 'em read 'em and fix it. It's pretty simple.
Yes, in fact, I have fixed this problem. I had the P0448 code about a year ago. How about before you go being an ass-hat, negative nilly, you read the post I quoted and form a response from there.

I'm talking about the issue of having trouble with the fuel pump shutting off due to vapor pressures. Don't be a Richard.
 

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It sounds like you haven't gotten a code (P0448) but your symptoms are similar, so cleaning things out and installing a filter may help, and can't really hurt.

Dust, most likely, is what is clogging things up. The end of the hose connects to the frame, which is hollow, with plenty of holes for more dust to get in. It's a bad design if you take your vehicle on dusty roads.

You need to blow the dust out of the canister and the valve, and ideally place an air filter (breather element or similar) on the end of the hose. I opted not to extend the hose up into the tail light area and it has worked fine for me, but some people do extend the . I blow the dust off the filter every year or two when I drop the spare tire to make sure the hoist mechanism is working good.

Here's another useful thread. Note that IMO it's easier to remove the canister than try to work with it in place:

My post showing the filter setup I opted to use:
so i am wanting to just check the end of the hose that gets clogged first. Where exactly does it go into the frame and how do i get access to it? is that plastic thing with nothing attached in those two pics where it used to go??
 

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so i am wanting to just check the end of the hose that gets clogged first. Where exactly does it go into the frame and how do i get access to it? is that plastic thing with nothing attached in those two pics where it used to go??
It's the solenoid that gets clogged. That's why you need to drop the canister and clean both of those things out. The vent hose is just there to vent to atmosphere, which is where the dirt infiltrates.
 

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so i am wanting to just check the end of the hose that gets clogged first. Where exactly does it go into the frame and how do i get access to it? is that plastic thing with nothing attached in those two pics where it used to go??
Drop the spare tire and look at the inside of the frame on the drivers side.

Yes, the hose is attached to that plastic nipple, but just clearing that hose is not enough. The hose has probably allowed dust to travel to the evap canister and valve.

You need to pull the canister and the vent control solenoid valve as described in these previous threads, then blow the dust out of them and clean the valve and hose. Then install a filter on the end of the hose, either keeping it in the same general area (as I did) or extending the hose to an area less prone to ingesting dust (as described by others in these threads).
 

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i took a peak under there and saw where the hose connects to something attached to the frame so that appears to be it. my plan is to remove that, check the nipple part that's in the frame to make sure it's clear, and also peek in the hose and see if it's clean. As i said, i have rarely been on dusty roads in the 14 years I have owned it since new. I'd be really surpised if it's clogged up like that. I think/hope in my case, some bug decided to build a nest on the end of it. anyhow. dropping the spare is easy and that hose looks accessible to remove and check. Will let you all know...if that's all clear, then yes, i will be removing the canister this weekend and cleaning things out.
 

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dropped the spare and got the hose out. came out easy. too easy. there is almost a plastic sleeve inside the hole. anyhow, some dust came out but it wasn't clogged on the end. ran a wire up about 6 inches and used the shop vac to suck out anything. i will see if this made a difference- can't see it doing so unless i sucked something up with the shop vac. if not, i will tear into it this weekend.
 

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As stated above, it's not the hose that gets clogged, it's the solenoid. You'll find that taking the plastic corner off, and the wheel well liner is the best way. Drop the canister, remove the solenoid and blow both out with a compressor. Lube and test the solenoid by touching the electric connectors with wires from a 12v battery. you'll know if it still works because it will click and activate the spring loaded plunger. If it still works, then re install, and your good to go (although I strongly recommend the replacement hose and location). If not you'll need a new one, but I doubt it.
 

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sounds good. thanks...
 

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update- went over to a neighbors house after work today an dhe put the truck on his scanner- he's an ASED mechanic and has the fancy scanner. He exercised the valve on the canister via the obd ii port. it is working. no codes. he then used his air compressor and blew air into the fuel filler neck with me feeling for air out the hose in the frame. very little air at first. then warm air and lots of it. nothing came out the hose. just alot of air. went to fill up- was on 3/4, and put in 5 gallons. So the air going into the filler neck pushed something out. let's see if it lasts. If not, then a new canister or at least blowing it out with it off the truck is next.
 

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You DO NOT need a new canister. Those are $400. The fix we told you about will cost $15 to $20
Stop avoiding the fix. Just pull the canister, clean it with air, douche the solenoid and put it back together. It's easy quick and will last you years, if you don't get in dirt.
 

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a new canister is 110.65$ on courtesy parts among other places...not $400. as much as i drive this thing, i won't tear into it until it starts acting up again.
 

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Solenoid is only $20 at Amazon. Mine was half full of dust. Living on dirt country road is costing Me more aggravation. Now to get filter on a extended breather
 
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