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Thank you for the information, Mr. Bills.

Chris, I'm assuming this solved the issue? I would be afraid of sealing it all back up properly after dismantling it.

My thought process was the used canister / valve (returnable) is only $30 more than the Dorman valve I switched out.

If this can get me through the smog early next year at least it can buy me more time for more appropriate fix down the line. I can't believe how expensive these OEM canisters are.



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depends on where YOUR problem is.......
is your problem the vent valve....change it
is your problem the evap canister....change it....or rebuild it.....
is your problem the fill line is clogged.....See Nissan..tech bulletin......
is your problem the vent line into the frame.....plumb a new line with a filter......

YMMV :)

All of these together will solve your problem(I think) but will reoccur if you drive the vehicle in a dusty environment.
Thats why the vent line filter is an important addition.
 

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Let me know what happens. I bought a used canister and valve on eBay for $100. I'm going to pull it all apart again, return the $70 valve and see if that works. Couldn't pull the trigger on the $400 OEM canister lol

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/173318607016

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Well, I replaced everything last weekend and extended the vent tube using 1/2” fuel line and a pcv filter. Buttoned it all up and drove it for the week. Ran the OBDII this morning to see if the systems have reset and the EV system is showing as ready and there’s no check engine light. Hopefully, knock on wood, this has solved it for me. The old canister had a ton of dust in it when I took it out so I think it either needed to be replaced or recharged. Haven’t tried getting gas yet but I hope that the tank will fill normally now as well.

**Edit**
Went up to the mountains over the weekend. No codes and filled up without issue. Seems like it’s fixed! (Knock on wood) Hooray!
 

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I bought a new valve and a new canister, but it did not come with the connection circled in red on the attached image. Is this something I can buy separately or should the one on my old canister work without issue?



View attachment 107408



Thanks.


That’s actually the fuel pressure sensor that tells the computer if the evap system is sealed or not. You can remove it from the old one by gently prying the 2 side clips and lifting the sensor up. Then transfer it to the new unit. Be careful removing as it’s not a cheap sensor from what I could tell.
 

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Well, I replaced everything last weekend and extended the vent tube using 1/2” fuel line and a pcv filter. Buttoned it all up and drove it for the week. Ran the OBDII this morning to see if the systems have reset and the EV system is showing as ready and there’s no check engine light. Hopefully, knock on wood, this has solved it for me. The old canister had a ton of dust in it when I took it out so I think it either needed to be replaced or recharged. Haven’t tried getting gas yet but I hope that the tank will fill normally now as well.

**Edit**
Went up to the mountains over the weekend. No codes and filled up without issue. Seems like it’s fixed! (Knock on wood) Hooray!
Good to hear...my light is back on after putting in the used canister. Fueling up is becoming extremely cumbersome.
 

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Did you also replace the solenoid valve and re route the vent filter? Unfortunately, there was no way to verify if the used unit was in working condition.

If you didn’t replace the solenoid valve and re rout the filter that would be my next move. If you did then I’d look into replacing the charcoal in your old canister and sealing it back up.
 

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Did you also replace the solenoid valve and re route the vent filter? Unfortunately, there was no way to verify if the used unit was in working condition.

If you didn’t replace the solenoid valve and re rout the filter that would be my next move. If you did then I’d look into replacing the charcoal in your old canister and sealing it back up.
Yes I did. Both times it was the same code (P1446). I think I have to start using some electrical testing to make sure it is getting power. Didn't do that step as stated in the OP as I don't have to equipment.
 

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I drove through the desert last month and the X triggered a P1446 on the drive home. I used the info in this thread to solve the issue.

On my 2005 I replaced the vent control solenoid with DORMAN 911503 and cleaned the evap canister with compressed air. I forced short bursts of air through all three inlet/outlets. There was definitely visible puffs of dust blowing out. I did this about a dozen times until I could barely see any more dust. Betweena bursts, giving the canister a good smack on the ground helped loosen the dirt and dust trapped inside the filters.

Prior to the code I would always have to fill up with the gas nozzle at half flow setting otherwise the pump would repeatedly click off well before the tank was full. It has now been a month since the repair. No codes and I am able to effortlessly refuel with the pump at full speed. Thanks to all those who helped figure out this fix! Saved me a bunch in labor and a trip to the shop.
 

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Curious, did you run the new house behind the tail light?

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I didn't relocate the hose.

Mine has this canister in line between the valve and the frame and it has 2 holes in it. Not sure if it would code if I took that out of the mix so I will just clean it out yearly going forward and hope for the best with the new canister and valve.

Capture.JPG

I just wish it hadn't taken me over an hour to figure out what part of the wiring clip you had to push to get the dumb things apart!
 

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I didn't relocate the hose.



Mine has this canister in line between the valve and the frame and it has 2 holes in it. Not sure if it would code if I took that out of the mix so I will just clean it out yearly going forward and hope for the best with the new canister and valve.



View attachment 107972



I just wish it hadn't taken me over an hour to figure out what part of the wiring clip you had to push to get the dumb things apart!


You can (and should) remove the factory “filter” mine had that and it does very little in preventing dust from getting into the canister. I ran the filter behind the tail light and no codes.
 

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FWIW, I had the P1446 SES code (EVAP canister valve closed) and had a very hard time fueling up. Replaced the valve without success. Replaced the canister and valve (used unit) with no success.

Today, I undid the hose extension that I ran behind the taillight and placed the original hose back into the frame. Cleared the code and didn't come back on. Also, I was able to fuel up without issue. Since my rig is 14 years old and I am just now having EVAP canister issues, hopefully this stock setup will last me a decent amount of time sans the hose extension.

This is not a criticism of the OP, which was very detailed and a great idea, but for whatever reason that extended hose was causing my code not to clear. Just FYI if future owners are in a similar situation.
 

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^^^^ was hose it Plugged up with insects or other critters??

I had issues with spiders making nest in mine. That resulted in codes, as with issues fueling up.
 

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^^^^ was hose it Plugged up with insects or other critters??

I had issues with spiders making nest in mine. That resulted in codes, as with issues fueling up.
Negative, was an immediately issue after I ran the hose. Just Checked the hose again and it is clear.

It is possible that the hose got pinched somewhere along the way. I'm leaving it as-is though! I've had this problem for the past several months and have smog coming up.
 

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Working on trying to get them back. We had a change in site operating software from vBulletin to XenFofo and the photos didn't change over.
 

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Ive used this process for cleaning my Evap canister every 6 months or so, soon I will decide its time to replace, I just don’t have a good place to get 1/2” fuel line, and it seems 1/2” washer line is too thick and probably unsuited for Fuel Exposure. Will have to wait I guess.
 

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So my suburbanite, asphalt, concrete and garage dwelling lifestyle ‘15 X with very little mileage sees this thread, should it care? Is it good preventative maintenance or simply a waste of time if the rigs never gotten properly dirty?
 
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