Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums banner

41 - 60 of 99 Posts

·
TNX Administrator
Joined
·
19,810 Posts
big_perm - I'll see what I can do. I'll add this thread to our PB Photo Restoration Project.

Old Navy
 

·
TNX Administrator
Joined
·
19,810 Posts
All Photos placed into PB's Purgatory, have been Resurrected for this thread!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,592 Posts
PO488 is back dang it!!.. Bought new Valve.

Question: how the hell you remove that dam Corner panel?.
I removed all the inside Wheel well trim screws.
Removed the Two 10m I think bolts just below the Tail light.

It felt stuck, like the middle Step has magical bolt Or something holding it place?.

Does that Step Snap on? Use plastic Pry bar to pop up?. Will that allow removal of the Corner panel?

Need to get to the Canister, to place new Valve on it. Removal of corner panel seems to be Best way per the other threads I read.

How many beers does it Require for Fixing? ;-)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
Alright so preparing for a big road trip I extended the breather up into the tail light. Drove 8 miles and got the P0448 code cleared it then went to the gas station to see if it would refuel normally and it didn't. Cutoff every gallon or less. So it's safe to say a screwed something up. Here is exactly what I did. If this seems wrong please let me know.

1- pulled the hose that plugs into the plastic fitting on the frame off plastic fitting.
2- ran a smaller diameter hose into that hose and hose clamped it
3- ran the other end of the smaller hose into tail light with a $11 dollar miniature cone filter hose clamped to the end.

Seemed simple but has obviously caused the SES light to come on. Will probably just undo everything I did yesterday and return it to normal and hope the code clears.

Thanks in advance
 

·
Same Country as Bucksnort
Joined
·
14,613 Posts
Evap vent control price update. Dec 17 2017


part number 14935-JF00B or 14935-JF00A(old)

Dorman Part #911-5039old) or 911-504(

on ebay.

16-17 dollars with FREE shipping



on Amazon
Dorman 51-71 dollars
Nissan part number
part number 14935-JF00B
14935-JF00A(old) 33 dollars to 100 dollars



The evap vent canister itself has dropped price as well Nissan part number 14950-EA20B
on eBay
75 dollars w/ 45 shipping or another at
120 dollars w/ 30 dollars shipping NEW



90 dollars used
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
05+ Evap fix

Just finished a Evap valve install (Dorman 911-503 Evaporative Emissions Canister Vent Valve) and reverse blowing out of the Evap canister (necessary). Thanks for the post it really helped, I did it the same but a little different.

When attempting this fix go slow and take it easy on components, this will help prevent breakage of expensive and hard to reach parts. This is not easy the first time, I did this twice and the second time was a snap. (had to remove Evap canister again to reverse blow it out to complete the fix, just changing Evap valve didn't do it)

Don't remove the rear quarter panel it's not necessary.

Remove the driver side rear tire, use a jack stand please.

Remove the mud flap and inner fender. TOOLS: Philips and flat screwdrivers, needle nose pliers.

Remove hose clamp off rubber hose(or slide further down the hose) and carefully slide hose off the tube(use the 90* needle nose pliers to help you push it off the tube, hold tube while doing this), remove the first electrical connection (pinch the clip on the end by the wires to release lock and wiggle off). TOOLS: Straight and 90* Needle nose pliers (I have the 3 piece set of the really long ones, nice to have)

Remove 12 mm bolt holding the Evap canister in place, *SOAK THE BOLT WITH PENETRATING OIL REPEATEDLY* SOAK the bolt, loosen the bolt a little and SOAK again, tighten the bolt back up and SOAK again repeat this process as much as needed to remove the bolt WITHOUT BREAKING IT OFF... good luck. TOOLS: 12mm socket, an assortment of extensions, socket wrench, penetrating oil, and patience. I used PB Blaster with success.

Now that you have removed the bolt successfully:eek:ccasion5: lower canister down and rest on the inside on the rear quarter panel( creates a nice ledge to support canister).

Remove Elec. connection off of Evap valve(pinch the clip on the end by the wires to release lock and wiggle off). TOOLS: long 90* needle nose pliers worked great here to.

Remove rubber hose off of Evap valve, carefully wiggle off.

Leave the center hose connected(Is a pain to get off when I tried)

Remove Evap valve (slightly twist valve to the left until it is straight up and down, then wiggle and pull, you will feel the locking tab holes, then pull straight out of canister).

:headbang: **THIS IS THE FIX**

Using an Air nozzle create a seal and blow into the rubber hose, dirt and crud should start to fly out of the Evap valve hole, repeat this a few times to insure air flow. (not sure of my psi, forgot to turn on my 150 psi compressor, 80-100? after lug removal)

Install new Evap valve (use a little grease on O-ring to ease install)

Reinstall everything else in reverse order.

*I read a different post were a guy used a K&N valve cover filter and clamped it on the end of the tube that feeds the Evap valve, said it worked great. So if you have time find one and put it on, I didn't(I will:banghead:)*

Tighten wheel lugs and you're good to go!

Now drive to the nearest Gas Station and fill up.

After months of torture filling the Xterra I was scared, I started on medium flow, then said F it and clicked it on to full flow, it didn't click off till the last Gallon! SUCCESS!!!! :wav:

Hope this helps

Good Luck!
 

·
Registered
2005 Nissan Xterra OR
Joined
·
554 Posts
The best course of action to cure the P1446 error code is to blow out the canister, replace the vapor control valve (the P1446 DTC is for the valve, not the canister), extend the air intake hose to a dust free area (such as behind the driver side tail light) with a filter on the end, and hope for the best. If the canister is truly junk you can easily replace it later, but it makes no sense to me to spend $265 if it isn't necessary.
Alright so preparing for a big road trip I extended the breather up into the tail light. Drove 8 miles and got the P0448 code cleared it then went to the gas station to see if it would refuel normally and it didn't. Cutoff every gallon or less. So it's safe to say a screwed something up. Here is exactly what I did. If this seems wrong please let me know.

1- pulled the hose that plugs into the plastic fitting on the frame off plastic fitting.
2- ran a smaller diameter hose into that hose and hose clamped it
3- ran the other end of the smaller hose into tail light with a $11 dollar miniature cone filter hose clamped to the end.

Seemed simple but has obviously caused the SES light to come on. Will probably just undo everything I did yesterday and return it to normal and hope the code clears.

Thanks in advance
I reversed everything I did and the SES light is staying out. I'm not touching it again.
Followed the instructions in the original post after the X threw a p1446 code. I ended up replacing the valve with this Dorman part linked in an earlier post by Mr. Bills. I ran a smaller hose from the OEM hose utilizing a barb connector and hose clamps as Kjswa and the OP alluded to. I put everything back together in reverse order and threw the code again after clearing it and driving a few miles. Says "EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve (closed)". I don't think reducing the hose size would cause this. Since I've replaced the valve and it still throws the code I doubt replacing the canister would help? Frustrating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
311 Posts
Followed the instructions in the original post after the X threw a p1446 code. I ended up replacing the valve with this Dorman part linked in an earlier post by Mr. Bills. I ran a smaller hose from the OEM hose utilizing a barb connector and hose clamps as Kjswa and the OP alluded to. I put everything back together in reverse order and threw the code again after clearing it and driving a few miles. Says "EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve (closed)". I don't think reducing the hose size would cause this. Since I've replaced the valve and it still throws the code I doubt replacing the canister would help? Frustrating.


I’m in a similar situation. Cleaned the canister and valve with compressed air. Unfortunately, my code came back within 20 miles. Instead of tearing it apart to clean it again I’ve decided to replace everything. I also reduced the tubing from 1/2” to 1/4”.

As I understand it, if the canister is heavily caked with dust/mud it could be too packed to allow proper air flow. It’s also possible that the reduction in diameter for the tubing doesn’t allow for proper airflow to satisfy an “open criteria” despite the fact that it may be open. (I’m unsure of how it determines if air is flowing. If someone does then please educate me as I want to know.) I’m also planing on re-plumbing the vent using 1/2” tube to eliminate that possibility. I’ll post back up once I get under their again. Hopefully, with good news.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,452 Posts

·
Registered
2005 Nissan Xterra OR
Joined
·
554 Posts
I’m in a similar situation. Cleaned the canister and valve with compressed air. Unfortunately, my code came back within 20 miles. Instead of tearing it apart to clean it again I’ve decided to replace everything. I also reduced the tubing from 1/2” to 1/4”.

As I understand it, if the canister is heavily caked with dust/mud it could be too packed to allow proper air flow. It’s also possible that the reduction in diameter for the tubing doesn’t allow for proper airflow to satisfy an “open criteria” despite the fact that it may be open. (I’m unsure of how it determines if air is flowing. If someone does then please educate me as I want to know.) I’m also planing on re-plumbing the vent using 1/2” tube to eliminate that possibility. I’ll post back up once I get under their again. Hopefully, with good news.
Let me know what happens. I bought a used canister and valve on eBay for $100. I'm going to pull it all apart again, return the $70 valve and see if that works. Couldn't pull the trigger on the $400 OEM canister lol

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/173318607016

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2005 Nissan Xterra OR
Joined
·
554 Posts
Received the canister and valve off eBay today, looks to be in great condition we'll see what happens


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

·
Same Country as Bucksnort
Joined
·
14,613 Posts
the problem is you cant see how much fuel the activated charcoal has absorbed.
that is why i recommended cutting it open with a sheet-rock knife and opening it up and refiling the charcoal with new charcoal.(from Amazon)

Mr bills mentioned to me that you could weigh it to determine how much fuel it had absorbed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
311 Posts
the problem is you cant see how much fuel the activated charcoal has absorbed.
that is why i recommended cutting it open with a sheet-rock knife and opening it up and refiling the charcoal with new charcoal.(from Amazon)

Mr bills mentioned to me that you could weigh it to determine how much fuel it had absorbed.


Wait, you can do that?!?!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,242 Posts
the problem is you cant see how much fuel the activated charcoal has absorbed. . . .

Mr. Bills mentioned to me that you could weigh it to determine how much fuel it had absorbed.
zanethan said:
Wait, you can do that?!?!
The relevant section of my 2005 Nissan Xterra Factory Service Manual begins at page EC-33. [Engine Control chapter, section on Evaporative Emission System).

Page EC-41 reads:

1. CHECK EVAP CANISTER

1. Remove EVAP canister with EVAP canister vent control valve and EVAP control system pressure sensor attached.

2. Weigh the EVAP canister with EVAP canister vent control valve and EVAP control system pressure sensor attached.

The weight should be less than 2.0 kg (4.4 lb).

OK or NG

OK >> GO TO 2.
NG >> GO TO 3.

2. CHECK IF EVAP CANISTER SATURATED WITH WATER

Does water drain from the EVAP canister?

Yes or No

Yes >> GO TO 3.
No >> GO TO 5.

3. REPLACE EVAP CANISTER

Replace EVAP canister with a new one.
>> GO TO 4.

4. DETECT MALFUNCTIONING PART

Check the EVAP hose between EVAP canister and vehicle frame for clogging or poor connection.
>> Repair or replace EVAP hose.

5. CHECK REFUELING EVAP VAPOR CUT VALVE

Refer to EC-43, "Component Inspection" .
OK or NG

OK >> INSPECTION END
NG >> Replace refueling EVAP vapor cut valve with fuel tank.
 
41 - 60 of 99 Posts
Top