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Ok, lets get this out of the weight.


1st step is to read the directions just once and toss them aside! LOL No
crap! Black ink was on special and we could not see any of the pictures, it
looked like someone tarred, (Not yet feathered) stealing a bowling ball just
after a power outage! Enough of the funny stuff, on to the real pictures.

Your zinc hardware will be in a small package, along with two metal backing
plates that you should prime and paint before install.

This is the quality hardware for the front.


And the hardware for he rear.


Ok we set a carpet down, and some old tackle boxes to hold slider up.


You grab this fine thread bolt, it goes in thread in frame.


This holds up the rear for the marking of the hole.


We slid a jack in from opposite side, and jacked up the front.

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You need to install the front long bolt 1st you can see here where the
backing plate goes, Tighten this just until it starts to bend a bit.
Now snug the other bolt into the bottom as shown.

You MUST do this so that your rear hole you drill lines up properly.


At this point you have a secure front, and one bolt fairly snug in rear. Now,
stand back and look at slider, make sure it is aligned so that it is parallel to
the rocker on the Xterra, nice and level same gap from front to rear. Mark
the hole.


Unless you have the mother of all drill bits, (Whatever size it is) you have to
remove the slider and drill. (Or just keep it there and drill if you have right
bit.)

We had close size but no cigar, so we remove slider, and drill.


Then we used a step drill bit from Harbor Freight (On sale $10) and drill to
size.


Above a right angle drill helps a lot.

I am always concerned with rust as I have restored some autos and seen
what drill shavings do inside a frame. So I hose it down with Rust converter
to head off rust. This comes in many brands. I use DuPont.


Now you go back and do all that again but loosely this time, install rear bolt,
Front long one, front short one, and come back to the rear and install the last
bolt with the funny flat wire that is used to place nut inside this hole into
frame and onto the bolt, this takes some skill, but you will figure it. Basically
get a good light and get nut in frame and flat to frame so you can see it in
the hole and then ease the bolt it, when it catches lightly snug.


Now, realign everything making sure sliders look level and parallel to the
rocker. Tighten it all down now, the Bolt you put in with the wire on it last.
We did 90 ft Lbs. You'll get no trouble out of the last bolt, it will tighten just
fine and then you take the wire part of it and tuck it up inside frame in a
manner it won't vibrate. This will allow the removal of the slider in a few
years for painting.


The sliders make a great step to load the roof rack.

We bought some tread tape and cut it and rounded the corners and installed
it.

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And the rear. This stuff is highly suggested.

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content

We also put about a 10" piece on front square part and the 1st 8" of bottom
of the slider, this area gets a lot of blast from front tire and this will prevent
wear.

The finished and installed product.


Makes a nice foot rest, Thanks to Mark for the purchase so that we can do
this how to for ya, and letting me interrupt his install 64 and a half times to
take a picture.

His dog Tammy didn't seem to mind.


Note, you can save a little of time by having the right size drill bit, but,
removing the slider is not hard and you get a much cleaner hole and no
damage to the powdercoat using this method of removing the slider for
drilling. Pay particular attention to not overtightening the front long bolt
(Bending the crap out of backing plate) and making sure your slider is in
exact place you want your X to wear it before marking your hole to drill.
If you mess up, slot that hole with a rat tail file or step drill and that will
allow some adjustment.

MC
 
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I put mine on the other day. MC your instructions helped out a ton. I read through and looked at the photos and then went out and did it. It only took about an hour and a half. Not bad and the shrock sliders both look great and I have to say damn they make a huge diference in your confidence on the trails... thanks buddy!
 

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Sliders

xcellent instructions and play by play photos. Looks like it is manageable for one person unless the slider slips off the prop stand and knocks my teeth out. woops, i just jinxed myself. ****.

Is it still manageable if the front end is not jacked up?

xcellent Post USMC
 

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I installed mine by myself without jack stands and without jacking the front end up. Took a total of about an hour with part of that was cleaning mud off of the mounting points. Very easy install.
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No problem sig lol. For the record, having a helper would have made it easier, but it is totally doable by your self. Good luck.
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I just installed my sliders. However I didn't understand what the dampeners that I had to remove were for. They seemed to small to actually help dampen any vibrations on the vehicle. Can anyone help me out with that? I have the 2005 Offroad model.

Thank's!

- Jim -
 

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My Shrock sliders were shipped out today! Today is exactly the 6 week mark which they said it would be. Cant wait to throw them on, I'll be printing this how-to out and using it ina week when the sliders arrive! Thanks man!
 

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Had these sliders sitting in the garage forever, just got them put on now that the weather is cooperating.

I had help available to install these but what made it an easy solo job....two standard milk crates. Mind you I have no lift and stock height of an OR model.

With the slider sitting on the milk crates they were within half an inch or less of the mounting locations. So easy to bolt up solo....just in case you ever need to...
 
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