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This needed to be done around 30K but if you go in dirty areas, or have a poor filter such as a Oiled filter, K&N much sooner. (Hi Flow Filters that use an oil allow lots of dirt to flow to this area, and on into your engine).

Notice the dirt on the edge in below picture, and how edge is clean in picture down from that.


Yech! See all that black stuff, that robs MPG and may cause rough idle and poor throttle response. Best bet is clean before it's too late.

CAUTION: Never even scratch that plate especially the edges or the surface it rests upon, NEVER use a wire brush to clean I use a soft tooth brush of good quality that won't loose a bristle.

Below is what a dirty one looks like, when that black stuff builds up it prevents it from closing like the computer is telling it to, You have to fix that.


Below is what it looks like clean, it's important to clean the edges and where they rest and both sides of that plate. Use Throttle Body Intake cleaner ahhh only.


This is what it looks like clean, kind of compare to dirty, it don't look like much but considering even a scratch on the edge of that plate will jack up your performance, you can imagine what all the dirt does. Mostly you will notice this problem 1st by rough idle.


When you decide to do it 1st you take off the clamp coming off the air cleaner intake and remove the top of that and set it aside, then you remove the two bolts that hold the rear cover on and pull up pretty hard as there are two pegs that rubber grommets fit around.


Next you have two bolts that hold the front on, And that clamp on the left there that goes onto the part you will clean, remove the nearest clamp.


Here we are in the ready to clean position, use that rag or fluid will pour onto your belt cause you a problem squeal. Proper cleaning fluid pictured.


I saw some trouble starting here on these grounds, looks like for the fuel injection? I didn't really trace em down but they were pretty corroded so I use some compound to stop that.


Now is a good time to do the air cleaner MOD silly me I did not take an after picture, but see that round tube? You can cut that out and get better flow and more even use of the cleaner. Some people cut the whole thing out, I just cut like the top half and back to the case. Anyways, nice MOD to do. Be sure to vacume and use an air blast to clean out the cutting debris or you will suck it into your filter/engine 1st start.


Pretty cheap maintenance that will save you money in future as if this pat is dirty it wears out the motor that controls it prematurely and, avoids that rough idle problem plus saves gas, ya know we like that.

MC
 

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sweet i gotta keep that in mind
 

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Another great write up MC :headbang:
I've been cleaning the throttle bodies of all my vehicles at least once a year.
My work truck which does a lot of idling and stop and go gets it twice a year.
 

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So I got around doing this after 16000 miles and I can really tell the difference. no more rough idle and I can really feel the difference in throttle response.

Thanks for the write up MC
 

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this should be a sticky as it is a simple yet useful how to
 

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MC, you appear to be anti-K&N or oiled filters in general on this thread, what is your alternative to this.

By the way not trying to tread on your beloved Corps, but I just had to change my username (formerly 07XXXterra) to give credit to the service that funnels your tax dollars to pay for my X, that and the girlfriend thought the XXX was inappropriate.
 

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MC, If I might step into this ?

The alternative to the dirty old style K&N is the new dry-type that utilizes
micro-fibers. It is dry filter that does not need replacement, just cleaning out.
Amsoil makes the one on my X but, I think there are others now ?
Keep in mind that Amsoil was the first.

MC, can add to this, as he is the guru for cleanliness !
Thanks for the write-up MC ! As usual,,,GRRRRREAT !
Jim B
 

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Do you have a part number for the AMSOIL filter, I am considering going to AMSOIL products on my next service, might as well keep it all together.
 

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Okay ! Here it is ;
Had to run to the garage to get the box.

Amsoil: EaA104 Absolute Efficiency Air filter
Be advised , it's about fifty bucks ?
And, mine is the direct replacement filter for a 2005.

Respectfully, this is MC's thread.
Jim B
 

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Seriously, Ive been having the rough idle problem for a while now and just assumed it was from the CAI. Have the superchips cortex and bumped up idle speed but now realize all i got to do is do some cleaning. Got to thank old navy for mentioning this on the idle adjustment thread.
 

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ok, now I did all the TB cleaning, injection cleaning, used 1/3 seafoam into brake booster pipe, 1/3 to gas tank, 1/3 to engine oil. Changed oil to mobil 1 syntetic, checked engine mounts, trani mounts but still when rpm around 625 it vibrates... somehow I don't have my X running smooth as when new where you wouldn't tell if the engine is running or not... I'm considering superchips cortex to leave rpm around 725 which makes it smooth??? oh yeah, also changed PCV valve.. car has 33k miles.. any suggestions? or is the X like this? vibrating a little?
 

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Now is a good time to do the air cleaner MOD silly me I did not take an after picture, but see that round tube? You can cut that out and get better flow and more even use of the cleaner. Some people cut the whole thing out, I just cut like the top half and back to the case. Anyways, nice MOD to do. Be sure to vacume and use an air blast to clean out the cutting debris or you will suck it into your filter/engine 1st start.



MC
I don't think I would cut that pipe out of the air box unless you live in a dry climate and don't drive in the rain. The purpose of it is to try and direct water droplets down to the bottom of the airbox where they'll collect and drain out and not let them soak the air filter.... at least to any great extent.

If you're ever lived / driven / rode a motorcycle in Western Washington, you know how driving on the highway in the rain ... its like the rain is coming upwards, not falling down sometimes. The air itself is completely saturated, like you're underwater. That extra water in the air can soak the filter, which on some motors really affects how well it runs.

I once did an airbox mod to my motorcycle (at the time), and every time I rode in the rain after that it ran like crap... took me a while trying various things to fix it until I gave up and bought a new airbox.
 

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I'll be doing the cleaning very soon, thanks again, MC.

What do you guys think about adding this to the How-To sticky? I know several of you have done the cleaning with positive results regarding the vibration at idle issue. And I know a good amount of us are still feeling or have felt it, and are looking for a way to get rid of it.

I'll get back to you with my results.
 

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I don't think I would cut that pipe out of the air box unless you live in a dry climate and don't drive in the rain. The purpose of it is to try and direct water droplets down to the bottom of the airbox where they'll collect and drain out and not let them soak the air filter.... at least to any great extent.

If you're ever lived / driven / rode a motorcycle in Western Washington, you know how driving on the highway in the rain ... its like the rain is coming upwards, not falling down sometimes. The air itself is completely saturated, like you're underwater. That extra water in the air can soak the filter, which on some motors really affects how well it runs.

I once did an airbox mod to my motorcycle (at the time), and every time I rode in the rain after that it ran like crap... took me a while trying various things to fix it until I gave up and bought a new airbox.
I did this airbox mod about 70k miles ago. I live in PA and we get a fair amount of rain here. I never had a problem in the slightest. What it did do is cure the filter being dead black in the area near that tube. Now the filter is evenly dirty which suggests to me that air flow is better. It definitely sounds better.
 

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ok, now I did all the TB cleaning, injection cleaning, used 1/3 seafoam into brake booster pipe, 1/3 to gas tank, 1/3 to engine oil. Changed oil to mobil 1 syntetic, checked engine mounts, trani mounts but still when rpm around 625 it vibrates... somehow I don't have my X running smooth as when new where you wouldn't tell if the engine is running or not... I'm considering superchips cortex to leave rpm around 725 which makes it smooth??? oh yeah, also changed PCV valve.. car has 33k miles.. any suggestions? or is the X like this? vibrating a little?
Check your air filter and your MAF sensor....and look for any leaks in your vacuum lines....
 
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