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They don't specifically say it. The ones I got were pretty good quality and on par with the OEM keys compared to the my Nissan vans in Asia and have the exact same keys.

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Interesting, I will await your finding if that one works for you. If so Ill be doing the same, just curious on the different MHz between the factory fob and the Rogue.

Rick.
Well based on what I am now seeing on club frontier here that I am almost certain this key won't work. Now on amazon you can get the one offered by keyless option for $18 here. One of the people used the guts from the keyless option one in the OEM key to get themselves OEM quality of the switchblade model and aftermarket electronics. The OEM (2nd picture)is very different from the aftermarket key. Here are some pictures.I already have the key so I will try to program it.
 

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Well based on what I am now seeing on club frontier here that I am almost certain this key won't work. Now on amazon you can get the one offered by keyless option for $18 here. One of the people used the guts from the keyless option one in the OEM key to get themselves OEM quality of the switchblade model and aftermarket electronics. The OEM (2nd picture)is very different from the aftermarket key. Here are some pictures.I already have the key so I will try to program it.
@240addiction, you bought the KeylessOption key (from Amazon)? Did it program okay? And was it missing the little Nissan logo on the back?
 

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I have not ordered the keyless options one yet. I am still waiting to get the x back from Nissan (3 weeks right now).
Okay I'm confused... above you said "I already have the key so I will try to program it". Which key? That's the one I'm asking about. I thought it was the KeylessOption key from Amazon?
 

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From my post earlier in the thread
Ah okay, you ordered the "OEM" one! Sorry it's just this thread is confusing af with everyone doing different fob types, different cutting/programming options, getting varied results, and half the earlier links are no longer available...

I think it's already been shown that "OEM" one doesn't work with the Xterra, wrong FCC ID or something. The KeylessOption one is supposed to work, and has the Xterra FCC ID as one of its supported numbers. I ordered one just now from Amazon here. It lists the FCC ID CWTWB1U821, which is the one on the back of my Xterra fobs.
 

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Like I mentioned I jumped the gun on ordering an OEM key rather than aftermarket. I am probably going to cut the OEM key then use the aftermarket key electronics and my valet key’s chip.
 

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Rogue-style flip key fob mod done!

Okay so I completed this today. Here were the steps:


  1. Bought this Rogue-style flip key fob on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR069O8. It's the one produced by KeylessOption as threads here and on ClubFrontier said that one works well. The key thing (pardon pun) is it must be compatible with the FCC ID printed on the back of your existing fobs, which is my case is FCC ID CWTWB1U821 (I think all Xterra are?). It is however missing the little Nissan emblem on the back. You can order that from elsewhere, it's Nissan part number 99820-EG00A. (I haven't ordered one yet.)
  2. Removed the transponder from the valet key (the key with the black Nissan logo instead of silver) by prying out the little transponder tray using tiny flat screwdriver blade and needlenose pliers.
  3. Popped open the Rogue key fob using a flat screwdriver in the slot.
  4. Pulled the existing transponder out of the Rogue fob and replaced it with the valet key transponder. Snap the fob halves back together. At this point the new Rogue fob will deactivate the truck's alarm and immobilizer, and could start it if the key were cut. I next paired ("registered/programmed") the Rogue keyless remote with the truck to verify it isn't defective before paying to have the key cut. Do that as follows...
  5. Make sure your driver door dinger wire is not disconnected under the instrument panel or this WILL NOT WORK!! (Took me an hour to figure that problem out!) If it is, reconnect it. You can disconnect it again when you're done.
  6. Get in truck and close all doors (they don't need to be locked).
  7. Fully insert and fully remove the new key in the ignition more than 6 times within 10 seconds to activate the "pairing mode". If you are successful, the hazard lights will flash a couple times. (Note, since I didn't have the Rogue key cut yet, I used the valet key to insert/remove, while holding the Rogue fob beside it so the receiver in the ignition could still sense the transducer in the Rogue fob.)
  8. Reinsert the key in the ignition and turn to ACC.
  9. Press any button on the fob. Hazards will flash again to indicate the keyless remote is successfully paired with the truck. (Note the truck can store 5 remotes, and bumps the oldest one off the list if you try to do more. Check all your fobs after to make sure they are still registered to lock/unlock the doors; if not, re-register those as well.)
  10. To exit the registration mode simply take the key out of the ignition and open the driver door.
  11. You can now test that the Rogue fob locks/unlocks the doors okay.
  12. Next I got the key cut at a local independent locksmith shop. No fuss, just curious questions. I explained what I was doing, that I moved the valet transducer to the Rogue fob, and actually took all my keys with me to show them just in case. Just gave me the usual disclaimer they couldn't guarantee the key because it's a customer-supplied blank. He checked the blank carefully though and said it looked okay. He cautioned sometimes the plating thickness on a blank is enough to make it not work. Said if it didn't work to come back and he could try to finesse the cut a little. Guy knew his stuff. In any case under 6 bucks for the cut and I was out of there. Key starts the truck perfectly (I didn't try it in the door lock cylinders).
Pretty pics attached. :)

To emphasize: if you re-use a transponder from an existing key like the valet key, you do NOT need to pay any dealer or other shop for any "programming". You only need the key blank cut, which should be well under 10 bucks. So your total cost is just the Rogue fob from Amazon and the key blank cut. Oh plus the silly little Nissan emblem if want to order it :p
 

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I bought a flip key fob from amazon for 16 bucks, and was easily able to follow the instructions here and set up the FOB portion for unlocking/locking the doors. Then, I took it to a local hardware store to try and clone the transponder from the Original Key to the Flip key and the Cloning machine wasn't able to clone it. I was a little concerned when the guy at the hardware store told me that the cloning machine salesman said that 75 percent of the transponders sold "online" were no good. I decided to be a gambling man and take it to the dealership and see what they could do. The guy at the service desk told me it would be 55.00 to program, if it worked or not. Ugh. I only had one key for ReX, so I decided to buy a dealer key ($45.00) and have it programmed ($55.00) at the same time so I'd have a good spare key either way. Well turns out the flip key was able to be coded! Apparently you have to program the Xterra (with dealer software) to accept a new key and just cloning the transponder doesn't work. IDK. Thanks for the info from previous posters, i'm stoked to have the flip key!
 

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Thought I would update with my experience of the rogue flip key. I originally ordered the OEM key from amazon and found out the frequency was wrong so I never even tried to program it. I then also ordered the keyless options one on amazon for something like $17 in the right frequency. I can tell you without a doubt the OEM key opens nicer and feels better all around. The cheap knock off feels like garbage to me. I swapped out the guts from the aftermarket one to the OEM fob and used my valet key chip. Took it in to a locksmith and he cut it for a few bucks and it works great no issues. So if you want a better quality key definitely consider swapping out the guts into the OEM fob.
 

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Thought I would update with my experience of the rogue flip key. I originally ordered the OEM key from amazon and found out the frequency was wrong so I never even tried to program it. I then also ordered the keyless options one on amazon for something like $17 in the right frequency. I can tell you without a doubt the OEM key opens nicer and feels better all around. The cheap knock off feels like garbage to me. I swapped out the guts from the aftermarket one to the OEM fob and used my valet key chip. Took it in to a locksmith and he cut it for a few bucks and it works great no issues. So if you want a better quality key definitely consider swapping out the guts into the OEM fob.
Did the guts swap right over with no fitment issues? Easy peazy?

I had a Audi that I sold in December.....and I love the flip keys it came with......but like you said....I bought a cheap replacement on amazon and it didn't feel nearly as nice. But the aftermarket ones I bought.... the guts couldn't be swapped without some major surgery.
 
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