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Ordered these from 4Wheel Parts and they didn't bother to get me ANY of the washer, bushings or nut. So everything in the bottom right wasn't even in the box. I emailed them back to let them know what was missing. Hopefully they make it right and send me the correct sh1t.
I have everything, i dont use them cuz im running bilstein
 

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For those of you who have used a flat bottom spring, did you use an isolator at the bottom? These are the ProComp's with Eibach springs. I would think you'd want an isolator there so it's not metal on metal but I'm not sure. Input?

This is with the stock ProComp isolator. obviously for a pigtail spring
136425


And this is without the spring isolator.
136424
 

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For those of you who have used a flat bottom spring, did you use an isolator at the bottom? These are the ProComp's with Eibach springs. I would think you'd want an isolator there so it's not metal on metal but I'm not sure. Input?

This is with the stock ProComp isolator. obviously for a pigtail spring
View attachment 136425

And this is without the spring isolator.
View attachment 136424
I used an isolator when I had the 5100s, but my Radflos don't have an isolator. I don't think I've ever noticed a sound from the springs rubbing the perch.
 

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Finally got the ProComp's and Eibach springs assembled. The idiots are 4x4 Parts didn't send me any hardware for them so when they did, they sent 4 units of hardware. Then the nut that goes on top wasn't even the right nut. It was close but they were the wrong thread pitch. Got them assembled from my local shop for $45. Now Just waiting for a day to tear the whole front end out

 

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Finally got the ProComp's and Eibach springs assembled. The idiots are 4x4 Parts didn't send me any hardware for them so when they did, they sent 4 units of hardware. Then the nut that goes on top wasn't even the right nut. It was close but they were the wrong thread pitch. Got them assembled from my local shop for $45. Now Just waiting for a day to tear the whole front end out

Did you make your top hats, have them made or did you order them before ADO sold out? That is currently the last part I am trying to source before jumping on my Tswap for the Fronty.
 

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Did you make your top hats, have them made or did you order them before ADO sold out? That is currently the last part I am trying to source before jumping on my Tswap for the Fronty.
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I had a local fabricator make them for me for about $25. The files are out there. Any metal or fabrication shop can easily make them for you.
 

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So post a few back reminded me that I still needed to do this SO! I finally have an update on the ProComps for those that were asking!

ProComp ProRunner SS Strut (zx2081) vs Bilstein 5100


A few months back I replaced my old P/N Tundra Bilstein 5100s that gave me nearly 50k miles of solid use, with the comparable ProComp ProRunner SS struts. I’ve been running around on the ProComps for about 5k miles now and feel that I have enough time on them to give some feedback to those who might be considering them.
Just so everyone knows, this is about as apples to apples as you can get with the only change in the front suspension being the struts. Same UCAs, top hats, and springs were used on both setups.

I know the first thing you want to know is: “Are they better than the 5100s?” and the answer to that is: It depends, but mostly yes.

Some Explanation:

Valving- The biggest issue that I had with the 5100s was that the damping was very light and this caused some loud banging top-outs on occasion as well as a general “loose and bouncy” feeling. By comparison, the ProComps feel much firmer in the valving department, with very rare top out bangs and a more stable feeling overall. For those familiar with mountain bike shocks, the ProComps have what feels like a platform style valving. It feels almost locked until the threshold is reached and then moves to the next stage in the valve stack. This equates to very minimal body roll (MUCH less than with the 5100s) but also worse small bump compliance. So on the road, handling improved drastically but washboard type dirt roads are slightly more jarring. I preferred the off road characteristics of the 5100s, but the on road of the ProComps. The Valving of the ProComps does seem to be a better match for the setup overall.

Wheel Travel- The travel is nearly identical slightly less than the 5100s, but it’s less than .25” difference. So not really a win for either.

Fit and Finish- The ProComps have some parts that are better and some that are worse than the 5100s. For example, the spring perch setup on the ProComp is MUCH nicer than the 5100s (machined billet Aluminum with spring isolators, vs stamped steel). On the flip side, the supplied bushings with the Bilsteins appear to be higher quality. Additionally, I ended up reusing the Bilstein shaft collars on the ProComps as only a washer was supplied. The way Bilstein adds the collar below the lower washer distributes the load much better and reduces the risk of the shaft punching through the bushing stack. The shaft coatings are also different, in my opinion, the Bilstein coating is superior. The Bilstein is hard chrome plated over the whole shaft where as the ProComp appears to be some sort of black chrome that was not applied all the way to the end of the shaft. Another difference is the lower bushings, the ProComps have a smaller diameter. This leads me to believe that they will wear a bit faster as there is less rubber to absorb the twisting action.

Warranty- The ProComps win this one hands down*. I believe the Bilstein is 90 days but if they ever saw that we have mounted them the way we do (not on designed application) it is null and void. The ProComps come with a lifetime replacement but the same caveat about application is there. However! If you buy from 4 Wheel Parts (ProComp is their house brand), they will offer you an extra warranty for another $10 per shock. This is a “No questions asked” free 3 year replacement. I even specifically asked the rep about using them the way we do and he said “No problem, still covered. You could bend them in half on a stool or blow them up on a huge jump, doesn’t matter, still covered.” So if you have any concerns, spend the extra $20 for this.

Price- The ProComps are slightly more expensive, but not by much. They are listed at $109ea and don’t go on sale often, whereas the 5100s are usually around $94ea. And another $10ea for the good warranty, so you are looking at roughly $50 more total for the ProComps. I happened to get mine on sale for the same price as the 5100s, but I had been watching for quite some time for a sale.

Longevity- Thus far into their life, the ProComps seem to be fairing better than the 5100s. They have zero leaks and honestly still look new. I had them apart recently to check on a few things and the lower bushings had hardly sagged at all and there was very little shaft bushing play. I did not have as good luck with the 5100s prior. By this point they had already began leaking and the lower bushings had sagged significantly. Judging by the condition of my rear ProComp MX6 shocks (purchased at same time as 5100s), I’d venture to say the ProComps will outlast the Bilsteins. With 55k miles on the rears, they show no signs of performance loss and have zero leaks.

Lift Heights and Misc- One drawback with the ProComps is the way the spring perch provides lift. Rather than moving the snap ring to raise and lower the perch, you flip the perch over for 0” or 2.5” (on Tundra). For us, the 0” setting is really the only one that can be used without modding the shock body. At the 0" setting after settling, I ended up at about 3.75" vs the 3.5" on the Bilsteins at the same 0" setting. The specs that effect the compression of the spring were nearly identical so I account the slightly more height to less settling in the lower eye bushings. If you want more options than that, luckily the ProComps still use a snap ring on the body to hold the perch. You’ll just need to add move grooves just like you would on the 5100s, just that there is only 1 groove from the factory, rather than 5. One cool thing about the perch on the PCs is that if you remove the lower spring isolator, you can run flat ground springs (Eibach and the like). This way you can get the correct spring for your truck and not muck around with Toyota springs if don’t want to.

Verdict- Overall, either are good shocks but as of now I’m leaning toward the ProComps due to the valving, available warranty, perceived longevity, and spring options. So far they have been great and I would not hesitate to buy them again.

Up close detail pics of ProComps when new: How-To/Review: Tundra Coilovers On a T Swap, Perfect Budget Coilover! - Page 20 - Nissan Frontier Forum

I was just looking on 4WP website and these are discontinued. Does anyone have any other alternatives besides the bilsteins?
 

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Bilsteins ended up rubbing for me because of wide eyelid outside.
I used discontinued Pro Comps. Locally bought from 4wheelParts in 2 stores (1 and 1).
Replacement part number was not readily available either

my 2021 build:
 

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In the process of assembling. I have the bilstein 24-261425, stock top hats, and used passenger side front fj springs. With the spring perch on the lowest bilstein setting the top hat can be tightened with out compressing the spring. Which makes me think I bought 4x2 springs not 4x4 springs. If I put the spring perch on a higher setting things seem right but I was not expecting to need to do that.
Springs are 13 inches long
What should the measurement be from the shock eye to the top hat? I’m coming in around 20 inches.
Liquid Hypodermic needle Fluid Gas Automotive lighting
 

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Post #17 may help answer your question
In the process of assembling. I have the bilstein 24-261425, stock top hats, and used passenger side front fj springs. With the spring perch on the lowest bilstein setting the top hat can be tightened with out compressing the spring. Which makes me think I bought 4x2 springs not 4x4 springs. If I put the spring perch on a higher setting things seem right but I was not expecting to need to do that.
Springs are 13 inches long
What should the measurement be from the shock eye to the top hat? I’m coming in around 20 inches. View attachment 147839

Post #17 might answer your question.
 

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Would a
Finally got the ProComp's and Eibach springs assembled. The idiots are 4x4 Parts didn't send me any hardware for them so when they did, they sent 4 units of hardware. Then the nut that goes on top wasn't even the right nut. It was close but they were the wrong thread pitch. Got them assembled from my local shop for $45. Now Just waiting for a day to tear the whole front end out

Would a 2.5" ID spring fit on these?
 

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@NoMorePathfinder In my T Swap I had rubbing of metal on metal from big Bilstein eyes.
I used Pro Comps with much smaller eyes and no more rubbing or noise.
May not bother everyone but my issue was squeaking from this, on road speed bumps and off road too.

These are adjustable shocks in height, used to be around $150 each and I am selling them at half price in case anyone doesn't mind squeaks.
Add FJ (or other) coil overs and you're halfway to a swap. Rock Auto R180 axle shafts..

 

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Post #17 may help answer your question


Post #17 might answer your question.
This wasn’t what I was looking for, but very useful information nonetheless. Thank you! I think I’m going to go the custom top hat route.
 

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@NoMorePathfinder In my T Swap I had rubbing of metal on metal from big Bilstein eyes.
I used Pro Comps with much smaller eyes and no more rubbing or noise.
May not bother everyone but my issue was squeaking from this, on road speed bumps and off road too.

These are adjustable shocks in height, used to be around $150 each and I am selling them at half price in case anyone doesn't mind squeaks.
Add FJ (or other) coil overs and you're halfway to a swap. Rock Auto R180 axle shafts..

So I did decide to t-swap. I have all the parts for the front except brake lines. Nothing yet for the rear. Wanted to figure out the front shocks before installing anything. The X is still the DD so can’t keep it down for too long.

Might be a little while before I have results for my combination. At this point I won’t speculate. But think I need the custom top hats to get the spring preload without too much lift. I was basically going to copy your original swap roxterra, going to stay with stock tire size for a while. Hopefully the bilsteins don’t give me too much trouble.
 
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