Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,474 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This won't be a detailed How-to as there are already several that cover everything.
This is just my attempt to organize them together into a larger project of restoring a 10-year-old truck from feeling like it's falling apart to feeling like it's new.
A lot of this comes down to worn out bushings, ball joints, and bearings. Here we go...

If your truck drives like a sinking ship, you have 3 options:
  1. Ignore it, run it into the ground, then buy another truck later.
  2. Fix only what you need to fix and look forward to many frustrating hours playing "find that squeak".
  3. Just assume that everything past a certain age or mileage has given you all it can, save the labor of pulling the wheel (and sometimes a whole lot more) to change each ball joint, bearing, or bushing one-by-one, and just bite the bullet and do it all knowing that you'll probably be able to relax for the next 5 or 10 years.
The scope here is intended to cover everything that wears out that makes the ride feel like crap and/or unsafe. Tires, brakes, diffs, etc are not included.

You'll want to review these FSM sections and How-to's:
Since this is a big project, I've decided to split the parts into groups that can be done on an easier budget without too much repeated labor.
(AKA: I need some of the bearings and ball joints asap.)

Parts Lists as follows:
ROLL
[TABLE=head] Position | Part | Note | Make | Model | QTY | $ | $*QTY | FO | Ref. URL
front left | UCA | incl: bushes, ball joint | Mevotech | CMS30122 | 1 | $59.79 | $59.79 | X | rockauto link
front right | UCA | incl: bushes, ball joint | Mevotech | CMS30123 | 1 | $59.79 | $59.79 | X | rockauto link
front left | LCA | incl: bushes, ball joint | Mevotech | CMS30124 | 1 | $74.79 | $74.79 | X | rockauto link
front right | LCA | incl: bushes, ball joint | Mevotech | CMS30125 | 1 | $75.79 | $75.79 | X | rockauto link
front left/right | Camber Bolts | adj. | Moog | K80276 | 2 | $20.79 | $41.58 | X | rockauto link
front left/right | Wheel Hub/Bearing | incl: ABS sensor/wire | Timken | SP450701 | 2 | $131.79 | $263.58 | X | rockauto link
rear left/right | Wheel Bearing/Retainer | | SKF | BR10 | 2 | $30.79 | $61.58 | X | rockauto link
rear left/right | Axle Seal | | SKF | 45600 | 2 | $15.73 | $31.46 | X | rockauto link
front left | Sway Bar Link | | Moog | K80470 | 1 | $17.92 | $17.92 | X | rockauto link
front right | Sway Bar Link | | Moog | K80471 | 1 | $17.92 | $17.92 | X | rockauto link
front left/right | Sway Bar Bushings | (avoid the Moogs, fitment) | OEM | 54613-ZL10A | 1 | $4.72 | $4.72 | | nissanpartsdeal link
rear left/right | Sway Bar Link | L/R same | Moog | K750075 | 2 | $18.36 | $36.72 | X | rockauto link
rear left/right | Sway Bar Bushings | pair | Moog | K200975 | 1 | $3.28 | $3.28 | X | rockauto link
| | | | | | subtotal | $748.98 | |
[/TABLE]

BOUNCE (NOTE: This is a mild 1.5" lift getting refreshed after ~100k. OEM refresh would be a bit cheaper.)
[TABLE=head] Position | Part | Note | Make | Model | QTY | $ | $*QTY | FO | Ref. URL
front left/right | Coil Springs | pair, 4WD | Moog | 81280 | 1 | $58.79 | $58.79 | X | rockauto link
front left/right | Shock | Bils. 5100 adj. | Bilstein | 24187053 | 2 | $105.79 | $211.58 | | rockauto link
front left/right | Spring Seat/Bushing | | KYB | SM5699 | 2 | $9.58 | $19.16 | X | rockauto link
front left/right | Strut Mount Plate | | KYB | SM5698 | 2 | $15.29 | $30.58 | X | rockauto link
rear left/right | Shock | Bils. 5100 | Bilstein | 24187169 | 2 | $89.79 | $179.58 | | rockauto link
rear left/right | Leaf Spring | | Old Man EMU | CS061R | 2 | $186.20 | $372.40 | X | amazon link
rear left/right | Leaf Spring Bushing | | Old Man EMU | OMESB99 | 2 | $23.70 | $47.40 | X | amazon link
rear left/right | U-bolt Kit | (replace for PRG flip-kit) | Rough Country | 7604 | 1 | $39.95 | $39.95 | | MFG link
| | | | | | subtotal | $959.44 | |
[/TABLE]

TURN
[TABLE=head] Position | Part | Note | Make | Model | QTY | $ | $*QTY | FO | Ref. URL
front left/right | Tie-Rod End, Inner | (avoid the Moogs, quality) | Hitachi | TRI0004 | 2 | $31.79 | $63.58 | X | rockauto link
front left | Tie-Rod End, Outer | | Hitachi | TRE0005 | 1 | $41.79 | $41.79 | X | rockauto link
front right | Tie-Rod End, Outer | | Hitachi | TRE0006 | 1 | $41.79 | $41.79 | X | rockauto link
| | | | | | subtotal | $147.16 | |
[/TABLE]

STOP
[TABLE=head] Position | Part | Note | Make | Model | QTY | $ | $*QTY | FO | Ref. URL
front | Brake Rotor, coated | | Raybestos | 980370FZN | 2 | $22.89 | $45.78 | X | rockauto link
front | Brake Pads, ceramic | | Raybestos | EHT1094H | 1 | $28.89 | $28.89 | | rockauto link
front left | Brake Hose | | Raybestos | BH382855 | 1 | $5.17 | $5.17 | X | rockauto link
front right | Brake Hose | | Raybestos | BH382856 | 1 | $5.20 | $5.20 | X | rockauto link
rear inner | Brake Hose | | Raybestos | BH382989 | 2 | $9.48 | $18.96 | X | rockauto link
rear outer | Brake Hose | | Raybestos | BH383254 | 2 | $10.70 | $21.40 | X | rockauto link
rear | Brake Rotor, coated | | Raybestos | 980368FZN | 2 | $18.39 | $36.78 | X | rockauto link
rear | Brake Pads, ceramic | | Raybestos | EHT1100H | 1 | $23.79 | $23.79 | | rockauto link
rear parking | Shoes | | Raybestos | 869PG | 1 | $18.81 | $18.81 | X | rockauto link
rear parking | Hardware Kit | | Raybestos | H17400 | 1 | $15.85 | $15.85 | X | rockauto link
| | | | | | subtotal | $220.63 | |
[/TABLE]


TOOLS
[TABLE=head] Position | Part | Note | Make | Model | QTY | $ | $*QTY | FO | Ref. URL
| Ball Joint Separator | | Performance Tool | W83022 | 1 | $26.79 | $26.79 | | MFG link
| Strut Spring Compressor | | Performance Tool | W89322 | 1 | $34.79 | $34.79 | | MFG link
| Slide Hammer | | Performance Tool | W89725 | 1 | $85.79 | $85.79 | | MFG link
| Seal Driver | | Performance Tool | W89715 | 1 | $51.79 | $51.79 | | MFG link
| | | | | | subtotal | $199.16 | |

[/TABLE]

OPTIONAL
[TABLE=head] Position | Part | Note | Make | Model | QTY | $ | $*QTY | FO | Ref. URL
front left/right | CV Axle | | Cardone | 666239 | 2 | $54.79 | $109.58 | X | rockauto link
front left | R180 Axle Seal | | National | 710922 | 1 | $6.02 | $6.02 | X | rockauto link
front right | R180 Axle Seal | | National | 710921 | 1 | $6.80 | $6.80 | X | rockauto link
rear left/right | Bump Stops/Helpers | | SuperSprings | SSR-210-40 | 1 | $209.25 | $209.25 | | MFG link
| | | | | | subtotal | $331.65 | |
[/TABLE]

Some notes:
  • Most links go to Rock Auto but they are not always the best price after shipping.
  • Most of the parts I chose are the grease-able options when possible.
  • There's lots of alternative tools on Ebay/Amazon cheaper. The "tools" section is just to remind me that better ways then big hammers and C-clamps exist.
  • The column "FO" identifies parts on my truck that are still Factory Original and very likely toast. (It's around 130k miles right now.)
  • I'm still looking for a better leaf spring option. The longer I wait, the bigger my maintenance budget grows...
  • I've used those Mevotech LCAs on a Pathfinder I recently did for a relative. BTW, I got all the LCA bolt cuts done with a single carbide recip saw blade. Definitely cheaper (and less frustrating) than burning up half a dozen non-carbide blades that don't cut very well anyway.
  • I recently changed the diff oils and the prybar helped me find plenty of things I want to replace sooner rather than later, even though it already started snowing last week. :)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
659 Posts
My 11 has 130,000 miles.
From the Carfax I know h majority ae highway from previous owner.
And for me have also been highway.

Previous owner was very good about maintenance I suspect many parts are new or newer.
I struggle to notice a difference form new.
Even though.... I do sometimes hears a squeak from the front when going over a speedbump
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,474 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I struggle to notice a difference form new.
Me too. I was taught to test by inserting a prybar somehow to get leverage and see if it moves "the bad way". The FSM has fancy numbers, but I don't see how you can check those without removing it, and at that point you've done nearly all the work to replace it...

Basically my rule of thumb for ball-joints is any play in direction C in the diagram means replace asap. The rule on bushings is more vague... Does it wiggle? How much? Is the rubber all cracked?
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,474 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
OP parts list updated to reflect OME rear leaf packs and some recent bad experience with Moog sway bar bushings. (@Longboardr, I hope you didn't go through all that because rockauto told me they would fit and I put 'em on my list. I don't even have OEM sway bar bushings since rockin' the PRG bling @VMBiohazard sent me a while back.)

So far I'm maybe 30% done.
  • Got the UCAs replaced. Ball joints had 1-2mm play in dimension C so they really could not wait. (Note to self: stop forgetting to check the uppers when checking the lowers.) My driver side rear mount bolt was going the stupid way so I had to remove the steering link too. I hear on the later years Nissan put the bolt in the right way.
  • Got both new Timkens in. Originals had 129k miles and were a bit crunchy/grindy sounding, but had no off-axis play. Maybe could have lasted a bit longer. God I hate those ABS connectors...
  • While in there I discovered a brake pad spring seized up. (Note to self: check and grease slide pins and pad springs every 6 months even though there's no chance it'll need new pads.) 3 pads had 5-6mm useful life left but 1 had got stuck and wore down to the backer steel and gouged up the rotor. These pads lasted about 60k miles and they were still the original rotors. The slide pins were not seized at all. I'll probably put new hoses on the list since they are 10 years old also and look a bit faded/cracked. I'll add a list of full brake kit parts too since I'm a big fan of being able to stop whenever I want.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,798 Posts
Nope, I saw Moog when I was loading up the Rockauto shopping cart and never figured it would make a difference vs OEM. Still don't know for sure, but I'll be driving in the rain home today and towing in the wind this weekend so I should have an informed opinion by the end of the weekend.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,474 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Updated the parts list with a link for U-bolts, fixed some links that I probably cut-n-pasted wrong. (Hey, at least I finally figured out to make a table.)

These U-Bolts are to replace the original bolts that came with a PRG flip kit from a long time ago. I chose that length based on what the leaf pack thickness difference is between the OEM w/ SAAL vs. the OME CS061R w/o HD AAL. I had trimmed those bolts down to ~6.5" inside length and these don't stick up so far that I'll bother trimming them.

As of now:
  • ROLL is done
  • BOUNCE is done for the rear half
  • STOP is done for the front half
It's a big job but it already feels almost like a new truck. Mostly I'm doing it because the rest of my family drives it more than I do and I want them to be safe.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,474 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Swapped the listed tie-rod ends to Hitachi per this thread. It's only about $50 more and if those really are the oem parts, my first set lasted a good 10 years. Only 2-6 months life for the Moogs is not cool.

I was getting ready to order a set in a few weeks. Thank you guys, posting in that thread has saved me the headache of doing the job twice. :thumbright:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Wow This is a comprehensive list...and I read through it twice.

Can't see any math adding up wrong - except the sway bar end links come in a set for $18.36. Thats all you need on that one - but you doubled it. Unless you meant to have a spare on hand ?

Also - you've mentioned it already, you can get some tools a bit cheaper, say Amazon for the seal driver kit for $ 23.00 vs the one listed @ $ 51.79.

https://www.amazon.com/SUNROAD-Aluminium-Bearing-Driver-Garage/dp/B075T82B8D/ref=asc_df_B075T82B8D/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241896598945&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1736609246589599554&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033284&hvtargid=pla-669068683328&psc=1

But it sounds like the work's been done. Excellent homework you put in beforehand ! Saving this post.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,474 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
How’re those Cardone axles holding up for ya?
Ok so far, but too early to tell much more. I put one just like it (same exact part number) in the 2010 pathfinder 6-8 months ago and it's doing fine. Still pretty early on that one too. It's done probably less than 10k miles. I'm mostly happy that the new seal hasn't leaked yet.

I'm hoping to finish the whole project before 6 months rolls around. I did most all the safety stuff pretty early on like brakes, ball joints, and wheel bearings. There's no garage (or even a patch of flat stable ground I'd trust for stands) where we're living now so I go about 50 miles to a barn I can borrow where I keep my tools. That and trying to work on it when it's 0* +/-10 isn't very fun. (It was a toasty 25-30 on the day I did the rear wheel bearings.) I'm onto my 3rd pair of neoprene gloves now and the temps are finally getting above freezing. :)



BlackbirdSR71 said:
Can't see any math adding up wrong - except the sway bar end links come in a set for $18.36. Thats all you need on that one - but you doubled it. Unless you meant to have a spare on hand ?

Also - you've mentioned it already, you can get some tools a bit cheaper, say Amazon for the seal driver kit for $ 23.00 vs the one listed @ $ 51.79.
It's very possible that I made some mistakes. It's copied from a spreadsheet and getting the table format to work on here was pretty hard. I also didn't exactly follow the list or update everything with what parts I bought. The Hitachi TREs should be in there since they aren't super expensive and just about everybody has had trouble with the Moogs lately. The sway bar links and bushings should probably also be updated to avoid Moog. Avoid all Moog!! (Says the fool as he starts building new 5100's with Moog coils...)

You're right about the tools. I think the slide hammer set I got was about $60. I know I could've gotten it for "free" from the parts store, but that's 2 trips when you count returning it for the rental refund. And when doing wheel bearing and suspensions for my xterra and 2 more pathfinders it was just cheaper to buy it and leave it in the barn than all the wasted time and gas for even more trips. For the seal driver I just use the old seal w/ block of wood, a big socket, random scrap metal... anything that fits and won't damage it. It'd be nice to have but isn't necessary, like the timing chain flywheel and chain guide tools.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,474 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
9 month update...

A new truck is born!

Ok, not really. But it rides pretty well, the steering isn't vague any more, and the alignment seems to be holding. Now the exceptions:

(Says the fool as he starts building new 5100's with Moog coils...)
How right you were past me! Those Moog coils were a waste of money. I'll take them off the list when I have time and find something better. Anyway, besides still needing to redo the front shocks, I've had engine mounts on the list and maybe it's a good 10-year item to add to the tables. I got an OEM set when they were cheap thanks to @General_Tarfun's post. I envy it only took him 2 weeks to get it done. ;)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,474 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
It was brought to my attention that the new forum thing mangled up those parts tables. I can't figure out how to fix it, and I can't upload the spreadsheet in a zip file anymore either...

Best I can do is upload a pdf-export of the spreadsheet with formatting and links that seems to still work. I scaled it to fit on a single 8.5x11 page if you print on both sides and you really want a hard copy.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Thanks 29erClan. These kinds of lists are very helpful for those of us learning how to replace suspension and other components.

FWIW, many of the listed parts correspond to consensus recommendations by forum participants which increases confidence in the other component recommendations.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top