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Ok, here is my latest mod. I installed the Total Chaos Upper Control Arms and Pre-Runner Greg's 2" Spacers.

To begin always make sure you have all the parts in your kit.
Here is a pic of what comes in this kit from PRG Products.



Note that you will be cutting away one of the bolts that mounts the driver
side UCA to the frame, so you need to purchase an extra bolt if one did
not come with your kit.

You need a 14mm x 90mm 1.50 bolt but you can substitute
a 9/16 x 3" grade 8 bolt if necessary, this is what i did, to avoid special
ordering the metric bolt, and it works perfectly.


Next, check that you have all the proper tools.

You will need:

  • 1. 17 & 19mm open closed end wrenches - 2 ea
    2. 12, 14, 17, 19, & 22mm sockets
    3. 3/8 drive ratchet
    4. ball joint separator
    5. torque wrench/breaker bar
    6. heavy duty floor jack & standard nissan jack (under back seat)
    7. two jack stands
    8. two wheel chocks
    9. grease gun
    10. hack saw or sawzall
    11. rubber mallet
    12. pry bar
    13. grease, pb blaster
Air tools really speed up the operation but are not mandatory.

I used an air ratchet and impact wrench in my install to speed things up.



  • For the first step, make sure the truck is on a level surface. Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels.

    Loosen - but don't remove - the lug nuts on both front tires.

    Jack the front end up and place the truck on jack stands, be sure the
    front tires are off the ground and place the jack stands under the frame
    of the truck, not the suspension.

    Remove the lug nuts and remove both front wheels.



    Next remove the front sway bar. I have removed the front sway bar
    previously, so there is no pics of this step, but using your 17 and 19mm
    wrenches, remove the connecting rods from both ends of the sway bar
    and tilt it up out of your way.


    *i borrowed the pic from dan, since i didn't do this step today.

    Now you are going to remove the coil over shock assembly. Loosen the nut on
    the lower shock mount, and using your light jack under the lower control
    arm, move it up until the bolt will slide free. remove the bolt and lower
    the jack down.

    Using the 14mm socket, remove the 3 nuts on top of the coil perch. Do
    not loosen the middle nut, as it holds the spring in place. And remove the
    whole assembly. Adjust the steering as necessary to get this part out.



    Now just slide on the spacer, to the top of the coil over, and use the
    factory bolts. torque those bolts to 22 ft-lbs.


    Set the coil overs to the side and get out your ball joint separator.
    Remove the cotter pin and use your 22mm socket with breaker bar to
    pull off the bolt on the ball joint.




    If you truck is new enough the ball joint may come apart easily, but
    it is best to have a ball joint separator on hand, since you can get a free
    loaner from advance auto or any of the auto parts stores in your area.
    Make sure to put your light duty jack under the lower control arm before
    removing the ball joint, to avoid putting stress on the brake line.



    Once you have the ball joint broke free, you can pull the steering knuckle
    out of your way. be sure to keep that jack under the LCA until you put it
    back together.



    Now reinstall the coil over. Insert the bottom end first and then position
    the top end with spacer into the bucket. you will have to reposition the LCA using your jack as needed to get the assembly back in there. once
    it's in place install the top 3 bolts first then the bottom bolt. torque specs
    on the top bolts are 22 ft-lbs and the bottom should be torqued to 160ft-lbs.






    Pull the bolts from the top of the Upper control arms. The driver side rear
    mount point will be close to the steering components so extra care is
    required when working with that bolt. you will remove the nut, then pull
    the bolt about 1/2 way out, so you can use your hack saw or sawzall to
    cut the bolt. a sawzall is highly recommended, but a small hack saw
    will work. be very careful not to cut the rubber boot on the steering
    which is about 1 inch away from the bolt you will be cutting.



    Now with both UCAs removed, put the TC UCAs together.
    Apply a teflon lubricant or grease to the bushings and sleeves to ease
    installation. a rubber mallet may be helpful to tap the bushings in.
    Make sure when threading in the zirk fittings, you do not overtighten them,
    or you may break them off at the threads.



    Now that you have the UCAs assembled, install them on the truck. use
    your 14mm x 90mm bolt that you purchased separately, on the driver
    side rear mount. make sure to put the bolt in from the rear, and use
    caution when working around the brake lines that are right behind there.

    Tighten the UCA mounting bolts to 60ft lbs. Apply grease to the zirk fittings.



    Remove the stock bumpstops, and replace with the ones provided from
    PRG> you will have to use a dremel or drill to widen the mounting hole
    slightly on the LCA. Tighten the bolt just till it's snug. no torquing is necessary.






    Now you will assemble the uniball, make sure your high misalignment
    spacers are seated properly, and use your light jack to aid in positioning
    the components. once you have them together, you can tighten the bolt
    down to 90ft-lbs and your install is complete.

    Reinstall your wheels and lug nuts, then lower the truck and torque lugs to spec.









    Be sure to check and re-torque all your hardware after you drive
    about 100 miles on it.
 

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Excellent write up there Greg. Loved the step by step pics. :thumbup:
 

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Next remove the front sway bar. I have removed the front sway bar
previously, so there is no pics of this step, but using your 17 and 19mm
wrenches, remove the connecting rods from both ends of the sway bar
and tilt it up out of your way.
You need to add, Place all hardware (nuts and bolts) away from small PIA puppies who like to run off with stuff when you don't play with them. :geek:
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Grunzen said:
You need to add, Place all hardware (nuts and bolts) away from small PIA puppies who like to run off with stuff when you don't play with them. :geek:
haha true. my puppy grabbed my roll of blue masking tape and starting
working on that.

after riding without the front sway bar for over a week now, i decided im
not going to reconnect it at all. i took the bar off the truck completely and
its sitting in my "parts pile" on the side of my house now (along with front
bumper, old coils, load leafs, etc.)



And aside from the camber issue that Grunzen discussed in another
thread, one other issue i see it that the half shafts are at a bad angle
now. I could see them breaking if you torque the front end at full lock on
the steering... definitely plan to get a few spare parts before my next
"major" outing, like steering and cv components.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
should be about 4-5 inches.

front fender is 40" off the ground, and the rear fender is 39"
(measured from center of wheel at the fender.)

someone want to confirm what the stock measurements are?
 

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Might have to talk to Greg and see if they are going to come out with a
diff drop kit of about one inch to get the CV's out of that bad angle. If not
contact TC and see if they are in the works of doing such.
 

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Should you use the bumpstops that come with this kit if you already have timbrens?
( this is probably a really dumb question, but someone had to ask it!!) :rr:
 
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S_e_X-Terra said:
Should you use the bumpstops that come with this kit if you already have timbrens?
( this is probably a really dumb question, but someone had to ask it!!) :rr:
the timbrens should be fine maybe even better. these are the energy
suspension ones that every major auto store sells for about 10 bucks. i
have hit my fenders with both front tires under compression on the trail,
so im glad to finally have those bumpstops upgraded. it was pulling the
sheet metal out on the fenders, right above the tire. i have hammered
them back now, but the paint is cracking. oh well, another place to apply
herculiner in the near future :D :) :D
 

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Since I got a "clunk" in my front end and plan on having the front end up in the air, I think I am just going to call PRG and order me a set of UCA. This write up convinced me of this I think. I am not how ever going to go with spacers and springs (just AC springs) as I would rather have my CV's last longer than gain 1.5 inch of lift. :)
 

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I've got a e-mail out to RCV Performance on CV's with a higher angle limit and strength. They'll cost more than stock probably but it would be another option.
And Muzikman what are you doing to that poor truck? I think you need a SAS on that poor thing. :cyclopsani:
 

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Muzikman said:
Since I got a "clunk" in my front end and plan on having the front end up in the air, I think I am just going to call PRG and order me a set of UCA. This write up convinced me of this I think. I am not how ever going to go with spacers and springs (just AC springs) as I would rather have my CV's last longer than gain 1.5 inch of lift. :)
Any news on this clunk Muzikman?
 

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I'm bumping this thread for a couple reasons.

One, being that it is one of the best Total Chaos UCA Instal How-To's I've seen.

Secondly, to ask a few questions since the install.:


-Have you noticed any adverse effects from incorporating the spacers in the lift?
-Have you noticed anything like substantial contact between the UCA and the coil bucket, or anything wrong with the CV joints?
-What shocks did you use to achieve 5" of lift without overextending them?

Thanks!
 

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Wait... I dont think that he even has a Xterra anymore... If im not mistaken he sold all his parts and then sold the X so he could use his XJ as a trail rig.... Am I right?? I think i bought his UCA's from him... Or am I having a brain fart!!
 
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