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Just use something to pry it out; heavy duty screw driver, open end wrench, etc. Place it on the inside of the metal ring and push toward the front of the rig to pry out a little bit at a time, don't worry about bending the old seal's metal. This seal is just like most of the other powertrain seals on our vehicle. It is a metal piece that has the rubber fused to the outside of the metal. The metal ring gives it the rigidity to be installed and sealed around the outer ring of the case and the inside of the seal has 3 ribs that are pre packed with grease and seal to the actual shaft.

Look at the inside of your new seal, you will see the metal that I am referring to.
 

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Hopefully someone can help me out, in regards to this picture after the seal is out.


So I had to chip my seal completely out and there seems to be a top metal inner ring that the seal sat on, is this normal or frontier specific?


And top of the seal before the dust boot goes on there was this plastic piece.

so, this year I replaced my transfer case, and I believe the new one came out of a frontier. Whatever, still worked just fine.

Now, my seal has been leaking for the last few months, so i finally replaced it today.

when I knocked the cover off it fell into my drain pan and was submerged...I didn't care because i got a new dust boot anyways. Once I finished, and put new fluid in, i removed the old dust boot from the drain pan and when i pulled it out it had that plastic piece in it. I did not reinstall it.

Do you guys think its a big deal that I didn't reinstall it there? I took it down the road and so far it has not leaked yet. I'm debating pulling the driveshaft, popping the cover off, and reinstalling that plastic piece but idk if its really necessary.

What do you guys think?
 

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So, does anyone happen to know the part number of the dust boot? I've been digging through the IPBs and cannot find it, and the wonderful parts guy at the local nissan store stared at me like a parakeet when I asked him.
 

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33141-7s11a for my 07

Schematic: Power train --> transfer case --> cover-rear


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Thanks, bud! For some reason, the schematic only shows that is applicable back to 09/2005. Mine was built 05/2005, that's why I couldn't find it... I had entered my VIN. I know it's the same for all of them... Thanks for finding it for me! :eek:ccasion5:
 

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THanks

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this write-up. Just changed my rear seal & dust boot today. Used a PVC T-fitting to seat the new seal. I nearly couldn't break my drive shaft bolts free. They were the most hateful part of the whole job. If I had a lift and a cheater bar they would have been cake. I had to whack the hell out of the wrench with the rubber mallet to break them loose.
 

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ordered the new seal and cover. Gotta get it fixed SOON!
 

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Excellent write up! My buddy and I ironically developed this same leak this past week. We are replacing his seal Saturday night and then hopefully will be doing mine next weekend.
 

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I appreciated this write up, made me a lot more confident going into replacing the seal.

A few things I wish I'd had ready before I started.

A puller. There just isn't a lot of room to pry the seal out. Obviously it can be done but if you've got access to a puller save yourself the trouble and figure on using it.





There is a plastic piece inside of the dust boot. I'd seen it mentioned in this thread and might not have noticed it otherwise as it came out in the boot. It's in the upper right of this picture.







My dust boot didn't go back on easily. A 10" long piece of 3" schedule 40 PVC pipe makes it a lot easier to drive the boot on with a hammer.



 

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All this is excellent and very helpful. A few comments that might help others. OReilleys has a $12 seaal pulling tool that make seal removal a 30 second procedure. Another point that was made somewhere in the thread about taking the yoke and flipping it around did the trick for me. When I felt maybe i needed to tap the seal in a bit more I took the old seal and placed it over the new one so the mallet never made contact with new seal, really have no idea if it matters. I guess my 2012 which i bought used had something happen up front before i got it because all 8 drive shaft bolts came out easily and their was no dust boot over the pressed in seal. I was a little confused about adding silicone sealant around the contact surface of the seal,,, Another thread talked about petroleum jelly... Not sure if I screwed that up by coating the contact surface with Permatec multipurpose white lubricant to make the seal press in easier. Was that a bad mistake? I am running it now without the dshaft to check for leaks.
 

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Does anyone know where a write up on the front transfer case seal could be found? I am confused on how to get the seal on over the output flange. Does the whole output shaft come out from the t-case?
 

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Does anyone know where a write up on the front transfer case seal could be found? I am confused on how to get the seal on over the output flange. Does the whole output shaft come out from the t-case?
The output shaft goes on in a similar fashion to the rear diff flange - remove the driveshaft, then remove the nut inside the output flange. You will need a puller to pull the output flange off the shaft. then remove and replace the seal. Re-assembly is in the reverse order of dis-assembly.
 
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