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ok. so I went out to LI to meet with the guys over there for a little mini Mod Day and noticed this.


Note: i removed the driveshaft when this picture was taken.

so, i decided I'd do the seal change myself and save a little $$$ since the titan swap and life in general has me a bit strapped for cashola.

Parts You will need:
1.) Medium Sized Flathead screwdriver
2.) Rubber Mallet
3.) Metal Hammer
4.) a box cutter or razor knife
5.) ATF
6.) the new seal. Nissan Part Number: 33140-7S110;

7.) 14mm Box Wrench
8.) Torque Wrench
9.) 3/8 or 1/2" drive extension (depending on what you are using)
10.) 3/8" or 1/2" socket wrench
11.) New Dust Boot

ok here we go!
1.) First step is to remove the Driveshaft and place it aside. They are 14MM bolts...you will most prob need an extension to get in there. The Yoke is connected to the rear Diff Flange To remove the slip yoke from the transfercase simply pull out on the shaft. put a bucket under the rig...or a tarp...in case a little fluid comes with it...it won't piss everywhere...just a little may be in the yoke and may come out.


2.) You will need to remove the dust boot which is shown below:


there is a metal ring built into this sucker..and it is coated in rubber. To get this off place a flathead screwdriver (bigger than the one shown) against the back flange of the dust boot...and drive it towards the back of the truck with a hammer. Hit the handle of the screwdriver while the flathead is pressed against the flange. If done correctly, the dust boot will come free. You may have to do this around the circumference of the boot to dislodge it.....its a whore.

3.) remove the seal: to do this you must either use hooks and slide them in the seal and pull outward...OR...you can use a box cutter and cut out a portion around one of the edges of the boot (since you will be throwing it out anyway)..and then use the flathead screwdriver to pry it out using the space you just opened up by cutting the boot material.


it will look like this once removed:


4.) i know its new but next clean the dust boot and rid it of dirt and debris...you don't want ANYTHING in that area....it will quickly chew up the new seal:


5.) clean the outer ring where the dust boot sits...and remove any corrosion, crap, or burrs.

6.) time to get the new seal in. first rub some Black Silicone around the outer edge of the seal like so for good measure.


place the seal in carefully and nudge it in with the rubber mallet. make sure the side go in evenly..if you stick one side in too far...and it goes in unevenly..it will NOT make a good seal. EDIT: on the second time installing this thing we ended up cutting a pipe with the same outer diameter as the outside of the seal. We then placed a rag in between it and the seal and used a block of wood and rubber mallet to nudge it on with even force distribution. There will be 3mm or so of the inner transcase metal ring showing. The compression fitting and spring have to be over the ridge inside the shaft case.


7.) Put some ATF on your finger and rub in on the inside of the seal and around the outer face of the seal now.. (the part that is now facing you...as the seal will be installed at this point)

8.) Put some ATF on the inner ring of the dust boot..and put it back on the output shaft outer flange. It should slip right on if you cleaned it well enough.

9.) Put the Driveshaft back in and torque down the pinion flange bolts to spec (i torqued them down to 50 ft lbs. or so....I think spec is 41 or 44)

Drive it like you stole it...then check for drips. mine has been good so far ;)

- Rook - K.H.A.O.S.
 

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Nice Rook.

Biggest thing is to not damage the seal when putting it in. The back of the seal usually has a compression spring that goes around the inside diameter of it, whack it to hard or unevenly and it will leak and ruin the new seal.

You can use odd things to evenly distribute the seal if you don't have the proper tools. Huge sockets work if you are careful. I have even used a hollowed-out shower head to do the cam seals and front main oil seal on the last engine I rebuilt.
 

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update make sure the seal seats on the inner lip of the t case housing, the compression spring has a little ridge it presses over, we missed this on our first attempt, a learning curve of sorts. On our second try we cut a piece of pipe big enough to match the circumfrence on the seals outer edge, put a rag over it and tapped the seal in till it seats. there will be 3 or so mm lip between the t case tail housing and seal if done properly. We used some black rtv to help it go in and add to the seal around the outer lip. Live and learn then watch bry break something and learn from his mistakes! woo FTW.
 

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^ yes good points Garrett! I will update the OP. and x2 on learning from my mistakes...i certainly make enough of them...

thanks again for your help...i updated my sig with you latest and greatest...LMAO!
 

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Make sure you have the new dust boot for sure. I attempted to re-use the old one and now my truck is out of commission till Nissan gets it in tomorrow. Of course every dealership had to be sold out and its a dealer specific part so no Napa.
 

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I re-used mine, sorry to hear that. The trick is to use a DULL chisel or something and from the passenger side give it a couple small taps on the back and it should come right off. I made the mistake of using a gear puller at first with my hand applying pressure and it ripped some of the rubber off the metal housing. But it still functions 100%.
 

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It looks like your seal is still in. That plastic piece in your hand looks the base to the dust cover. When you remove the dust cover and the seal around the output shaft it should look exactly like the first pic you posted.
 
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