Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,842 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
howto replace the positive crankcase Ventilation valve:

Ok, i have replaced my pcv 3 times on my truck. YOU DO NOT need to take any engine part off at all besides the pcv itself and it's hose.

once at 45k and it was stuck up and would not rattle. again at 80k, same thing. and i just did it today at 105k and it rattled but i still replaced.


here are some tricks to doing this without going craZY:

1) i picked up a new pcv at autozone. NOBODY else had them in my town. Dealer prolly does but why pay 15$ for a 4$ part?

2) the pcv is located back behind the top of the motor. trace the black hose from the intake plenum which is hard plastic back to that area. that is the pcv location.

3) removing the clamped hose end on the intake plenum is easy, do that first as it makes the next step easy/possible. the clamp that actually clamps around the pcv nipple- a royal pita!! Once you move the easy clamp out of the way, then pull the hose off the intake plenum's nipple. disconnect the center of the hose also from the c bracket 1/2 way between the ends of the hose. You will see what i mean. This makes the next step possible.

a) Now the rear clamp/hose end.. Argh.. i ended up using a pair of adjustable pliers. Needle nose pliers won't do it unless you have some with really wide ends. I tried alot and got nowhere. You have to use two hands with pliers with long handles. One to get the end of the pliers in place and hold and the other to push down on the handles from the top. This is noway a one handed job. If you can't get the wrench to open up the clamp due to angle, you can use your fingers and compress the clamp to open just enough to move the tabs on the clamp/and the clamp up or down/around the hose to allow for a better fit to try again. Persistence is your friend here.

b) once you compress the clamp tabs fully with the pliers you must then hold it in that position with one hand then wiggle the spring clamp away from the pvc nipple that is in the hose with the other hand. it's a pain but can be done.

now it, the clamp, should be away from the pcv nipple and then just pull off the hose from the nipple.

4) now pull the hose completely out and check for blockages/holes etc.

5) at this point get a 3/8" stubby ujoint type ratchet- it is a short handled 3/8" ratchet with a built in u-joint near the end. also get either a 24mm socket in 1/2" or 3/8" size. If you use 3/8" size it should work fine. I only had 24 mm in 1/2 so need to use a 1/2 to 3/8" adapter.

6) assemble the "tool" and then using both hands, guide the socket over the nipple of the pcv in the engine.

7) remove the pcv. You will need to use both hands here too, one to hold the socket in place, and the other to do the loosening.

8) install the new pcv into the engine and snug up.

9) NOW at this point, i decided to replace the stock spring clamp with a screw type clamp. This will make this job so much easier next time.

10) i just got a tiny clamp, placed on the engine end of the hose and snugged alittle.

11) once the hose was back over the nipple and slid the new clamp down and finger tightened.

12) i then used a 1/4" socket to a 1/4" 3" extension then to a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter then a 6" extension and then just finger tightened that way- sort of like screwdriver tight.

13) attach the other end of the hose to the intake nipple and you are done!!!!!

good luck!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,013 Posts
To be honest I had to Google what the PCV valve does. But this seems like a great how to if I ever need to replace it. How would I know if I need to replace it? what are the symptoms in our Xs?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,842 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
To be honest I had to Google what the PCV valve does. But this seems like a great how to if I ever need to replace it. How would I know if I need to replace it? what are the symptoms in our Xs?
I had erratic idle the last time- notexcessive tho.
Seems like on my truck I can go 20k miles on a valve
Maybe 30. I know by 40k miles the last 2 valves would not rattle
I would say every 30k at least. I will do every 20.
Posted via Mobile Device
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
855 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,972 Posts
I thought about adding a catch can. Someone said that the intakes and such are engineered to receive that oil vapor as a top end lubricant and removing it from the system could have ill effects.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,469 Posts
Anyone have a different wrench suggestion? My 24mm shallow socket is too shallow, and the deep is too deep - cant get a ratchet on the end. Maybe crows foot, or maybe I buy a cheap box end and cut it off short.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
For any others wanting to do this work, my experiences was:

- a pair of needle-nose vicegrips made removing the PCV valve side clamp very easy
- a normal depth 15/16" socket fits the PCV valve well enough. Given the PCV valve is plastic, I was able to torque on the socket by hand (ie. no wrench on the socket) to remove the valve
- a 0.5" to 1" screwed pipe clamp (a small version of what holds the airbox to the intake) makes re-assembly very easy
- In Canada, the PCV valve is available from Lordco for ~$20. The pipe clamp was $1.
- the PCV valve I removed did not have Teflon tape on it's threads. I did not use Teflon tape on reassembly. I also torqued the PCV valve down by hand (with the help of a 15/16" socket) - I didn't lean on it with a wrench. This seems to be working just fine.

I replaced the PCV valve for the first time at 130,000 miles. It still rattled, but barely. There was visible oil on the intake and PCV valve nipples.

After replacement:

- I seem to have more consistent / smooth power through the 2000-3000rpm range. Power north of 3000rpm is the same
- I seem to get a less raspy engine tone when under light load

Overall this repair took less than 30min and cost less than $20CDN - if any gains are minor, it seems worth doing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
I just replaced the PCV valve on my 2011, so I'll add my data points to help the next guy out. I just added an oil catch can, so I figured I'd replace the PCV valve while I was back there. The PCV valve itself is difficult to access, but as others on this thread have noted it can be replaced without removing any other parts.

PCV Location:
The PCV valve lives near the back of the engine close to the firewall on the passenger side. The PCV valve is at the other end of the 3/8" ID hose on the intake plenum pointed to by the green arrow in the picture that hopefully attaches to this post. It's the treasure at the end of that hose rainbow. The valve itself is hard to see even when you know where look.

Tools Needed:
1. A small pair of needle-nose locking vice grips to remove the two clamps on the PCV hose...one that's easy to remove on the intake plenum shown the attached picture and the one right next to the PCV valve that's more difficult to clamp on to and push back away from the valve. Hose clamp pliers make work as well.

2. Use a standard depth 23mm socket. A deep socket is too big since space around the PCV valve is very limited...I tried. Shallow sockets may work without a socket wrench attached, but see the attached picture and note that the green hose flange part sticks out about 3/4". I was able to just place the socket itself on the PCV valve and turn it by hand (no wrench needed) to unscrew the PCV valve. I reached in over the passenger front fender. Put a fender apron there if you have one and get rid of the metal belt buckle/keys in pocket. I think a stubby adjustable wrench able to open up to 23mm will work better than using a socket turned by hand. There's a wire harness bracket very close to the PCV valve that would have torn my hands up had I not been using fingerless gloves as I unscrewed the PCV valve by hand.

Parts needed:
I used the Nissan PCV valve, which is part number 11810-EA200 for my 2011. The rattle test seems to be how one determines if a PCV valve is fully functioning. The new valve rattles freely and easily. Lots of travel for what sounds like a ball valve or something in there. The old valve that I replaced barely made a tiny little sound when shaken, so it was clear the old valve was just about done. My 2011 has about 60,000 miles on it, so that old PCV valve was about done at 60k.

PCV hose to intake plenum.png PCV Valve.png
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,842 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
so is the pcv valve affected by time or mileage? i replaced mine last in 2015. But that's just 16k miles ago......
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top