Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,159 Posts
Hey all,

Seems like there was not a ton of info out there on replacing the Front Wheel Bearing, so here I go. I replaced one of mine this morning, and it only took a couple of hours. Some people also disconnect the Knuckle from the Upper Control Arm and remove the Axle from the Knuckle, but there was no need for this. Now, mine came out pretty easily, not too much BFH Needed, I could see needing to pull the Axle, if you had trouble getting the Hub out.

1. Remove the Wheel and Tire, and Caliper, Caliper Carrier, and the Rotor. Rest the Caliper on a up side down bucket, or hang it with some wire so you don't mess up the Brake Line;


2. Unplug the ABS Sensor and disconnect the wire from the Mounts on the Knuckle. If your new Hub/Bearing comes with a new one like mine did, you don't have to worry about messing it up, since you will be replacing it. Disconnecting this plug can be a Real PIA, take your time and try not to damage the Male end.

3. Remove the Cotter Pin and Axle Nut, (32mm), Impact Gun is best, but if that's not available, take the Center Cap off the Wheel, put the Wheel back on and lower the truck back down the ground, then use a Breaker Bar and the 32 through the Center of the Wheel to break it loose.


4. Knock the Axle loose so the Hub will slide off of it;


5. Remove the 4 x 17mm Bolts from the back of the Knuckle that hold the Hub and Bearing in.


6. BFH Time, beat the Hub out of the Knuckle, be sure to hammer evenly from side to side, as not to get it cockeyed in the Knuckle. You an also use Pry-bars here.

7. Remove the Hub/Bearing from the Knuckle, it should slide right out


8. Clean everything up, a lil Anti-seize never hurt anybody;


9. Then put it all back together in the reverse order, and Torque to specs, 44 ft/lbs for the 4 x 17mm Hub Bolts and 101 ft/lbs for the Axle Nut, don't forget the Cotter Pin or the Anti-rattle Clips!


10. Go Wheel'in!!!!!!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
I just had to do mine the other day...

Add 1 step for cars that lived on the beach...

Get a bigger hammer. I was using that same hammer you have there for about 3 hours and then I finally went to the HW store for a 5 lb metal sledge hammer before it would even budge.

Nice write-up, folks like you make the world go round.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
455 Posts
I just had to do mine the other day...

Add 1 step for cars that lived on the beach...

Get a bigger hammer. I was using that same hammer you have there for about 3 hours and then I finally went to the HW store for a 5 lb metal sledge hammer before it would even budge.

Nice write-up, folks like you make the world go round.
I'm beating it with a mini-sledge and haven't noticed any movement yet. Will continue beating it onto the night.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,952 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
455 Posts
But seriously, I've been hitting the hub from the back, and from the sides. Hit it with some LPS 2 for the night and will let that soak in.

When striking the hub from the side I've been hitting it on the flange.

All the suspension components on the front look as though I pulled them out of the ocean...
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
19,412 Posts
Can we get a PB fix on this one? I have to do this today...
Your wish is my command - All Photos placed into PB's Purgatory, have been Resurrected for this Thread!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,381 Posts
Can you do just bearings or is it smart just to do the hub?
The bearing is all part of the hub and is not serviceable on its own - you must replace it all.

Here down south you can buy the complete Timken hub - which comes complete with the speed sensor and wheel studs, for about $150.00 USD. It is a direct replacement, and my understanding is they make the OEM ones as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Can you do just bearings or is it smart just to do the hub?
The bearing is all part of the hub and is not serviceable on its own - you must replace it all.

Here down south you can buy the complete Timken hub - which comes complete with the speed sensor and wheel studs, for about $150.00 USD. It is a direct replacement, and my understanding is they make the OEM ones as well.
Ah I figured as much. Hanks anyway. I ordered one from wrench monkey for $260cdn for a timken. Local shop wanted $390. I thought maybe I could rebuild this one for the other side when it?s needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Really like the simplicity of the xterra. No vacuum hubs to worry about. After I got the hub bearing out I could barely spin it by hand. Was very crunchy, especially if I spun it the other way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
383 Posts
I have used air impact chisels on the hubs of other vehicles. Makes it much easier/quicker and they cost only $50. Of course you have to already have an air compressor.

A mechanic/friend told me about using an air chisel between the hub flange and the knuckle and I've done several vehicles (not the X) with it. Given the number of impacts to work a hub out, I cant imagine doing it with a BFH.
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top