Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Special thanks to CroftonBilly and his far Superior How-to: Install Heated Seats which I followed for the Seat and Seat Cover removal Instructions.

If your Seat Bottom is worn out and compressed from years and miles of use, you can replace it. Here's how.

Before you begin, make sure you get the correct part.


Tools Needed:


Clockwise from top left on our sturdy work table protected with cardboard, we have a pair of Skinny Needle-nose Pliers, (forceps), length of Cord for pulling Seat Cover Clips through, a Phillips Driver for removing Plastic Trim Piece, Locking Pliers for Hog Ring Removal / Reinstall, Small Diagonal Cutter for Zip-tie Trimming. In the center is a length of Copper Wire to assist in pulling Cord through. Not shown is 9/16" 6 Point Socket for Seat Bolt removal.

1st Phase: Remove Driver's Seat:

Disconnect Battery before working.

*NOTE: If you have a Seat Airbag, you may have additional Wiring under the Seat. Mine is an '06 with no Seat Airbag, so I only had one small Wiring Harness going to the Seatbelt.

Disconnect Seatbelt Chime Wiring, (underside, front of Seat):


Remove Wiring from Seat:

Remove Plastic Covers from Seat Rail Attachment Points:


Unbolt Seat, (use 9/16" Socket to remove the four bolts):



*NOTE: On my Truck both Rear Seat Bolts were pretty difficult to remove. I hadn't realized it, but these holes go straight through to the underside of the Vehicle, so they had rusted a bit.

Seat Removed:


Take this opportunity to clean up any loose change or previous owner Dog hair from under the Seat!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited by Moderator)
2nd Phase: Remove Old Seat Bottom Foam:

The actual Seat Foam work will be done inside. Prepare a sturdy table at good working height, cover with thick cardboard or other material. There is an Alignment Pin on the right Rear Seat Attachment Point that will damage your table surface if it's not protected.


Place Seat on Table:


Unhook Fabric from underside, pull through between bottom and back of Seat:


Pulled through:


*NOTE: - CroftonBilly pointed out that it should be possible to remove the four bolts on the bottom of the seat pan to allow the Seat Bottom to be removed as one assembly. I did not realize this at the time so I did this the harder way, (wrestling with the whole seat). It should make this process easier. Most of the information would still apply.


There are three Black Plastic J-shaped Channels that hold the Seat Fabric in place, you need to pull on and unclip them from the Seat Pan:


Unhook the longest Seat Cover Channel, pull through between bottom and back of Seat:


Unhook both sides of Seat Bottom Cover, pull through to top:


Remove Plastic Trim from right side of Seat. It's just two Phillips screws on either side of the Trim. I found this made things easier, but it's probably not mandatory.


Release side piece holding Seat Fabric, may require a bit of pulling on the Fabric. You can also unhook the piece across the front of the Seat, (not pictured):


Remove Seat Adjustment Knobs from the left side of Seat. Again I found it easier to have these out of the way and they're not too hard to remove. Use a Skinny Needle-nose Pliers to reach in and pull the Retention Wire Clamp.


Now the only thing holding the Seat Cover Fabric to the Foam, (except for the left hand side where the Knobs were), is the Hog Rings. There are 9 Metal Rings that clip the Loop of Wire in the Seat Cover to the Loop of Wire in the Foam Seat Bottom Cushion. I originally was going to use Zip-ties, but opted instead to re-use the Hog Rings so I had to carefully pry them open to remove.

Unhook Hog Rings connecting Seat Cover to Foam:


If you are going to use Zip-ties you may just cut the Rings, but I removed and reused them instead.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited by Moderator)
3rd Phase: Install New Seat Foam:

Here's my old Seat Foam:


Looks like someone has been in here before. The central piece had been cut out and flipped over (I think) but in any case it was all very mushy and not at all supportive. No wonder the seat had felt weird.

Remove the old foam. Note there is nothing holding the foam to the seat pan, it just sits in there and is held by the cover.


Place the replacement foam into the seat pan.


Connect all nine points with hog rings or zip ties. If using zip ties, make sure to cut them off cleanly and rotate the thick part of them down into the foam so they don't poke up into the seat cover.

There are two strip of velcro on the seat foam, you will need to attach the velcro counterpart on the seat cover to these and make sure they're lined up


Reverse previous steps to reinstall the seat cover.

Install the front (not shown) and side (shown below) pulling the seat cover taught. Make sure everything is smooth and lined up and the seat cover fabric isn't bunched up oddly


You can use a loop of copper wire to pull some nylon cord through to help get the side clips into the right place and pulled through.



The rear panel gets pulled back through and attached last


Now the last fabric flap. There is a thick plastic sheet that stiffens this area and makes it somewhat difficult to pull through, but it does fold fairly tightly.


Reattach the seat adjustment knobs and side trim plastic if you removed them


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited by Moderator)
4th Phase:

Reinstall Seat. I don't have any photos that differ from the ones used for removal, it's very straightforward. Just bolt the seat back in place with your 9/16" socket and replace the plastic covers where applicable.

Reconnect any wiring harnesses under the seat, then when everything is completely installed you can reconnect the battery.

Enjoy your new comfortable seat!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
849 Posts
Good Job! Good writeup and thanks for the shout out. I'm glad to have helped out a little with my other how-to. I'll link to this thread in mine to give some more clarity/options for people wanting to do similar seat/pad work.

As an FYI, I think the bottom seat pan can simply un-bolt from the seat frame with 4 bolts on the bottom to make it easier (get more access around bottom pad) for the next person to come along and do this or the heated seat bottom (looks that way in the FSM diagram too - re-torque each to 15 ft-lb).

Oh yeah, and EFF those damn Hog Rings right!?!

Cheers! :eek:ccasion5:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Good Job! Good writeup and thanks for the shout out. I'm glad to have helped out a little with my other how-to. I'll link to this thread in mine to give some more clarity/options for people wanting to do similar seat/pad work.

As an FYI, I think the bottom seat pan can simply un-bolt from the seat frame with 4 bolts on the bottom to make it easier (get more access around bottom pad) for the next person to come along and do this or the heated seat bottom (looks that way in the FSM diagram too - re-torque each to 15 ft-lb).

Oh yeah, and EFF those damn Hog Rings right!?!

Cheers! :eek:ccasion5:
It would be a huge understatement to say your how-to helped a little, it helped immensely! Makes my dark interior not as well lit previous owner dog hairy photos look pretty poor though :laughing3:

If there's an easier way to do this then I'm all for it! Unfortunately I have reinstalled everything back in so I no longer have the seat out. If I did I'd definitely look into that. If one removed those four bolts, the bottom seat cushion would come out as one unit then? It would make things easier but you'd still have the hog rings to deal with. Which, yes, F the hog rings! That was the most difficult part. I ended up using 6 of the 9 hog rings, the other three points I used zip ties, which were much easier, but I was concerned about long term durability in the Utah heat and cold.

Oh and thanks for mentioning the FSM, I didn't realize those were available. Will be a great resource for the future! Any way to download as one big file? Or are they only available as individual sections? In either case I'm going to start some downloadin' in case the link I found disappears. Thanks again. :eek:ccasion5:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
849 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,368 Posts
If you look at this pic, (taken from your 'How-to' post);


Here are 4 bolts holding the metal pan, ( one on each corner), I think those are the bolts that CroftonBilly is refering to, but great job on the 'How-to' as well.
Thanks! Yeah those are the ones I'm thinking as well. Wish I had the seat still uninstalled to try it out.

Anyone else think that pic looks like a monkey? Or is it just me?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
For the FSM, download all the files for your year into one folder. Use the fwd.pdf as the starting point and it "should" link/open to the other sub files of what you need from that one index.

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-xterra-factory-service-manuals.html

The "SE.pdf" file is the one for the seats (at least for the 2009 I have downloaded).
Thanks once again, that is the same link that I found. It does work using fwd.pdf as the starting point.
 

·
TNX Administrator
Joined
·
20,161 Posts
All (32) Photos placed into PB's Purgatory, have been Resurrected for this Thread! :thumbup:
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top