Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,696 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For a few years I've been dealing with my master power window switch being able to put a rear window down but not back up again and I'd have to reach back to the rear door and use that switch to get the window back up.

I know a bunch of us have run into the same problem and I looked at replacing the MPW switch with a junk yard unit but there's no guarantee that it wouldn't have the same problem in the future so I decided to remove the switch and do a tear down to see if it was repairable.

Turns out that it is and doesn't really take more than 30 min but make sure to be careful with everything as it's mostly plastic and you don't want to crack anything.

What you'll need:
1. Electrical Contact Cleaner. I used CRC QD Contact Cleaner I bought at Home Depot for about 7 bucks.
2. 1 sheet of sandpaper. Any of the common grits is fine.
3. 2 small flat tip screwdrivers or similar tool for prying. Eyeglass repair toolkit size is perfect.
4. 1 phillips tip screw driver or snow crab pick.


Optional:
1 Small wire brush







Step 1
Remove the Master Power Window switch from the door. This has been covered in other post so I won't go in depth but you just pry one of the ends up a little on the trim piece and pull it up. Disconnect the harness and remove. Then use the phillips tip screwdriver to remove the 3 screws holding the switch to the door trim piece and set aside.

Step 2
Use the pry tool to separate the white cover from the switch. I used 2 small flat tip screwdrivers to loosen one side and then rotated the cover off. Be careful not to crack anything or jab the electronics under the cover.


Step 3
With the cover removed now you can see the electrical board. To remove it from the switch you have to remove the power window lock button. The window lock is easy, just pull on it and it will come off. In an earlier version of this writeup I removed the door lock switch but others have pointed out that it's not necessary so I would recommend not removing it, it has small ball bearing that will fly out when removed and you don't need to pull it off to do this repair since it will stay in the housing with the other buttons.




Step 4
The green electrical board will come right out and you can now see the side that needs to be cleaned. I sprayed everything down with the contact cleaner paying close attention to the gold stripes, those are the contacts for the Driver Side door switch and the Door Lock switch if you removed it.




Step 5
Even though I only had a problem with one window I decided to clean all of them so I wouldn't have to do this job again soon but you can do just one if decide. To get to the contacts you need to remove the white cover for each button. Just pry one side at the two points shown while gently pulling on it to get the cover off. Although I removed all of them at once its easier/less confusing if you do them one at a time.



Step 6
With the cover removed now you can see the contacts and the 2 metal wing rockers that connect them. Note the direction they are in because one end is slightly larger. They aren't held in so you can just pull them out and spray some contact cleaner in there. Mine were really blackened so I used a small wire brush to clean the contact points on the board. For the wing rockers I removed and cleaned the tips with sandpaper until they were completely clean again.




Step 7
One extra step I also did was slightly bend the wing rocker ends down just a tiny bit. I think the ends get slightly bent upward over time and that helps creates a looser connection (my theory). Here's a rough diagram showing what I mean:


Now just give it a spray of the contact cleaner again and let everything dry out completely, set the wing rockers back in place and take the white cover and press it back in. Do the same for the other buttons and then reassemble everything in the reverse order and your switch should be back in action!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,721 Posts
Awesome awesome write-up! Thanks for sharing. Will definitely go back to this how-to once I run into this problem. This problem tends to follow me around for all the cars I've owned.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,495 Posts
Thank you! My switch contacts were also pretty bad. Being able to clearly see what you did was a really big help. When I popped open the lock switch a little ball bearing went flying off the spring. Luckily it was coated in lithium grease and stuck to the table where I could see it. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,696 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thank you! My switch contacts were also pretty bad. Being able to clearly see what you did was a really big help. When I popped open the lock switch a little ball bearing went flying off the spring. Luckily it was coated in lithium grease and stuck to the table where I could see it. :)
No problem! Glad you found that bearing it's probably a pain to track down a replacement, mine was stuck to the spring so I guess I got lucky.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Well . . . good news, bad news. I tried this today and the contacts were really dirty and I managed to get the windows all working again.

The bad new is . . . something went wrong with the door lock part of it. I wasn't expecting pieces to fall out when I took the board off, but a little white piece with some contacts on it fell onto the table and I don't know if I also had that ball bearing someone mentioned fall out, too . . . or maybe I just didn't put it back together again right based on that piece falling out, but I had issues getting the lock switch back on and it's kind of "dead feeling"--there's no spring to it anymore and the door lock/unlock is being flaky. Sometimes it works and sometimes it locks and then unlocks itself on its own. I looked all over the table and the floor and I'm not seeing any pieces.

So I'm not sure what I did wrong or what I lost--but I think I may end up just buying the replacement parts anyway. I guess I learned something for down the road at least.

EDIT: To borrow a screen shot from above . . . this is the part that came out. Not sure if there was something else behind it and/or I just am not putting it back together again correctly.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,771 Posts
Well . . . good news, bad news. I tried this today and the contacts were really dirty and I managed to get the windows all working again.

The bad new is . . . something went wrong with the door lock part of it. I wasn't expecting pieces to fall out when I took the board off, but a little white piece with some contacts on it fell onto the table and I don't know if I also had that ball bearing someone mentioned fall out, too . . . or maybe I just didn't put it back together again right based on that piece falling out, but I had issues getting the lock switch back on and it's kind of "dead feeling"--there's no spring to it anymore and the door lock/unlock is being flaky. Sometimes it works and sometimes it locks and then unlocks itself on its own. I looked all over the table and the floor and I'm not seeing any pieces.

So I'm not sure what I did wrong or what I lost--but I think I may end up just buying the replacement parts anyway. I guess I learned something for down the road at least.
Go hit up a local junkyard for a switch panel. I would think it doesn't even have to be the same year as all you really want is the guts to the switch to see if you can fix yours.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,696 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Well . . . good news, bad news. I tried this today and the contacts were really dirty and I managed to get the windows all working again.

The bad new is . . . something went wrong with the door lock part of it. I wasn't expecting pieces to fall out when I took the board off, but a little white piece with some contacts on it fell onto the table and I don't know if I also had that ball bearing someone mentioned fall out, too . . . or maybe I just didn't put it back together again right based on that piece falling out, but I had issues getting the lock switch back on and it's kind of "dead feeling"--there's no spring to it anymore and the door lock/unlock is being flaky. Sometimes it works and sometimes it locks and then unlocks itself on its own. I looked all over the table and the floor and I'm not seeing any pieces.

So I'm not sure what I did wrong or what I lost--but I think I may end up just buying the replacement parts anyway. I guess I learned something for down the road at least.

EDIT: To borrow a screen shot from above . . . this is the part that came out. Not sure if there was something else behind it and/or I just am not putting it back together again correctly.
I think I have an idea of whats happening with it. You know how the door lock/unlock switch has that white arm on it? That is supposed to push into that little white piece you had fall out.

When you reassemble make sure that that little piece is put in correctly, if you look close it has a tiny notch that keeps it from sliding too far in either direction. Make sure thats in correctly and when you go to reassemble slide that little white piece to the center so when you put the switch in they're lined up.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
I'll take another look at it . . . I tried to line that all up to get it back together, but maybe I jacked it up? I was zooming in my laptop as close as I could get it to look at your pic to try to see what the hell that part came out of, LOL.

Worth a shot . . . that part is like $250+ from dealers, apparently. I was floored when I called around to ask. Courtesy has it for about $175 if ordered from their website but I'd rather not spend that $$$ if I can avoid it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,696 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
If I remember right I think if you look in where the the lock/unlock switch goes before you put it back on you should be able to see it and if its not centered you can slide it. You might be able to get away with just taking off the switch and realigning it if it's in their correctly.

Yeah they're crazy with the price of the master switch unit, even the cheapo no brand Amazon ones were 70 last I checked.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
I took the switch apart again . . . and I found the ball bearing rolling around in there! So that's good . . . I think. But in the process I also discovered that I may have broken a little part off that lock switch at some point, either originally (which I think is the case) or when I took it apart again just today. See the little white piece next to the ball bearing.



So I am trying to epoxy that little piece back in place . . . we'll see how that goes. But I am not sure where the ball bearing goes. I assume it goes on "top" after the spring has been pushed down that hole/channel in the switch??? I wouldn't think it should go down the hole and then the spring on top of it, but if anyone can confirm that would help.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
That seems right but I don't remember exactly. I think on mine the bearing was held in place by some white lithium grease which kept it from falling out.
I have some grease on the one end of the spring, but it didn't hold onto the bearing that I didn't know I had lost originally when stuff fell out. I think I picked up the spring and stuck it back in thinking it didn't matter and I put it in upside down (without the bearing and missing that plastic piece). Seems logical that's where the bearing would be . . . but just not 100% sure.

I'll give the epoxy a good chance to dry and will try putting the switch back together later tonight . . . see how it goes. Nothing to lose, except about $200--ugh!:smile: :surprise:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Success!!! Temporarily, at least . . . I'm not sure how long my epoxy fix on that little plastic piece will last, but I got the switch connected and the "springiness" was there again. Closed it all up and put it back in the X and all is working well. I'll just have to monitor and hopefully this will hold up over time. I may keep an eye out for junk yard possibilities and maybe grab one for the parts bucket if I run across one just in case, given the cost of a new OEM switch.

***THANKS A MILLION FOR ALL THE HELP ON THIS, GUYS . . . this is why I love this site. Always helpful!***

As an aside for anyone else doing this same DIY---I think the only switch you have to pull off to get the circuit board out is the window lock. At least it seems that way based on my putting this back together and putting the door lock switch back in first before putting the board back in. I think the board should come off with that switch still installed. Barring that . . . definitely take great care in getting that sucker out. I messed mine up despite trying to be careful--if yours comes apart, then that pic of the switch with the spring and ball bearing above is definitely the correct positioning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
replacement switch

switchdocter.com has whole unit for 27 bucks supposedly oems. on Amazon from 22-35 bucks. rated pretty good. thinking of trying to fix mine like on here before I spend the money. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,696 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Awesome write-up! Made for a quick job this morning. Nice to have my window rolling down correctly again. If I do it again, I think I'll try it without pulling the lock switch though.
Glad it worked for you! I edited the how-to post to remove that door lock switch part since a you and a few others have said (correctly), that it didn't need to be removed to do the repair, hopefully this helps any future people out!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Really excellent write up THANKS! Only thing I would add is to caution people to hold the switch assembly upside down when pulling out the circuit board to keep sliders for lock and driver window from falling out. I just repaired the driver window switch myself without looking for a how to. Would have saved me a little time trying to get the sliders for the lock and driver window switches positioned correctly after they fell out if I read this first.

FWIW my problem was that the driver window switch would intermittently stop working and even would put the window down in the UP position. Thought maybe moisture got in there but after a dry spell it started acting up again. When I saw the contacts on the board they were covered with dust and grime. Bad design makes it too easy for junk to get in there.
I figured dealer cost would be around $80-100. Over $200?!?! ?
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top