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Want to rebuild your transfer case? Below are my notes on the automatic transmission version of the TX15B. This is slightly different from the manual transmission TX15B, and not much at all like the automatic transfer case, ATX14B. (In some Pathfinders w/ Auto 4WD mode.)

(I don't see any way to list parts in a table, and I was never any good at getting it to work anyway, so here's some "code" to try and make it easy to follow.)

Parts: (you should verify each part applies to your year/VIN before ordering in case you have a newer updated version compared to mine)
Code:
Name    Make    # (OEM #)    ODxIDxTHK
Input Seal    Koyo    MK048A2 (33111-7S110)
Rear Output Seal    NOK    15Z 45 69 10 (33140-7S110)
Front Output Seal    NOK    AH2677E (33216-7S110)
Input Bearing    NTN    6010Ex4x9C3px8 (33116-7S110)    80x50x16
Rear Output Bearing    NTN    TMB208C3 (32203-EA30A)    80x40x18
Front Output Bearing    NTN    TMB207X55 (33139-8S010, 2 required) 72x35x17
Anaerobic Gasket Maker    Permatex    51813
Optional/Misc:
Code:
Upgraded Front Output Flange    OEM    33210-7S11D
Upgraded Front Output Seal    OEM    33216-7S11C
Front Output Flange Nut    OEM    38216-31G0A
Rear Seal Cover    OEM    33141-7S11A (if you destroy during removal)
Planetary Bearing    Koyo    16011/3d    92x55x11
Needle Bearing    NTN    7E-8KS (33137-0W410)    28x40x22.5-1
Sleeve Bushing    OEM    31405-7S11A
*Snap Ring, Front Bearing    OEM    33112-0W411
*Snap Ring, Planetary Bearing    OEM    31348-EA300
*Snap Ring, Clutch Gear    OEM    33138-EA30A
*Snap Ring, Rear Output Bearing    OEM    33138-7S110 (2 required)
NOTES:
33137-EA300 is in the right place and looks like the planetary bearing but is called "Shim-Adjust, Hypoid Gear" for some reason.
* = marked as "must replace" in FSM, or don't destroy them during removal
Fails: (If you need one of these you're not gonna be happy, and a rebuild is probably a waste of effort)
Code:
Name    Part #    $
Fork-Shift, Front Drive    33168-8S010 (discontinued, hard to find)
Rod-Shift, Low & High    33161-8S010 (discontinued, hard to find)
Sprocket-Front Drive    33133-EA300 (discontinued, hard to find)
Input Shaft    33113-EA310    $160
Chain    33152-EA300    $432
Planetary Assy    31420-EA310    $403
Ring Gear    31431-EA300    $114
Main Shaft    33131-EA30B    $450
Coupling Sleeves    33153-8S010,33130-7S110    $98,$84
Special Tools:
The only special tool I really needed was a low-clearance bearing puller. Reaching in behind the rear output bearing you only have about 1.5mm and my regular puller just couldn't grab it. Luckily a 4.5" angle grinder is the perfect size to fix that.

Some good snap ring pliers would be nice, but you can get by with needlenose pliers and lots of patience.

Pressing out the needle bearing with a 1" dowel and deadblow hammer worked well. Regular seal pullers and prybars for splitting the case were fine too.

Process:
FSM-DLN has all the steps and is pretty easy to follow. Here's some pictures to go with it.


Remove plugs and drain oil, disconnect F/R drive shafts, breather tube, electrics, and pull from trans per FSM.


If you can't lock it in 4LO you can use the flange bolt holes like a pin spanner. Honestly an impact gun is the easy way to go. Flange nut is 30mm.


That's the flange, nut, and seal. That screwdriver looking thing is really a fancy seal puller if you look at it in good light.


Rear cover and front/rear seals.

Album link
There are 3 close ups for the OEM seal part numbers in the project album, but the new system says 20 pic max in the post so they aren't gonna be here.


Keeping the switches and hardware bagged so I don't lose it or mix up where it goes.


Here's the rear case removed without touching anything inside yet. The chain and sprockets show virtually no wear after over 100k miles. I measured the chain and see 110.6mm over 10 links. Hmmm... The HV-038 is very close at .4346Px1Wx84, and this chain looks like a .4346Px1Wx80 stretched about 0.2%. You'd probably have to be really unlucky to need a new chain or sprockets. Depending on how hard it is to pull 2 links and re-pin a rocker joint, it may be worth a try @$80 vs $430. Here's some PDF links with some info about these types of chains:
This chain is stamped "Morse E9" and is a pretty obvious match to the rocker pin style.


The inside of the rear case.


The rear bearing, retainer plate, oil pump, and snap ring.


This is what my modified bearing puller looks like now. Just be patient and keep grinding until it slips in between the bearing and retainer plate.


The clutch gear snap ring is a bear and marked in the FSM as must replace. After the little fork snap ring, the fork, sleeve, and sprocket slide right off.


You can pull out the shift control rods, Hi-Lo fork, and sleeve after that.


The outer front bearing snap ring is a bit of a bear and marked as must replace. Then you can slide the planetary assembly out and the rear snap ring on the front bearing is easy and the front bearing comes out pretty easy too. Basically any time a bearing here is set into aluminum/casting it is a slip fit, and on the steel/forging it is a press fit.


That's the empty front case after pulling the ring gear snap ring and the ring gear slides right out. Well, empty except for the baffle plate and breather tube.


The case models are going to eat up some free time. It's a tough one but I'm looking forward to the challenge.


The oil pump is a typical gerotor type and it feeds into the center of the main shaft through four 4mm holes. It can leak through the splines on one side and the shaft/bore gap on the other. It's a good idea to check that gap with some feeler gauges. If you look at the other parts and see galling you probably need a new oil pump. Some gap is probably intentional to feed oil to the rear bearing.


The planetary bearing snap ring is not hard to pull. I'm glad I checked as it has more play than I'd like to see. The needle cup bearing gets easily pressed out from the front with a dowel. It's got horrible play and will be replaced too.


Since I have to wait for the planetary and needle bearings I didn't order before, I'm building more 3D models at onShape. Now I understand how and where the oil is pumped. I think it's cool. And at the left end you can see how little room there is between the rear bearing and the retainer plate to get the bearing puller in there.

The oil pump is driven by the rear output shaft so anytime your rear axle is spinning, oil is pumping. It gets squeezed into the center of the main shaft and from there goes out through the needle bearing at the front and 5 drilled ports along the way. You've got oil ports to: the main sprocket, the gap between the main and input shafts, the center of the input/main shaft bushing, and 2 into the cavity between the needle bearing and bushing between the main and input shafts. From that cavity there are 2 outlet ports through the input shaft delivering oil to the planetary bearing and input bearing. The planetary bearing is open cage but the input is sealed, and this means no oil can get between the input bearing and input seal, so I don't understand why. Maybe an early version used open cage input bearings. Anyway, all the oil forward of the main sprocket eventually flows through the planetary gear assembly.

Oh, and my input/main shaft sleeve bushing was mostly ok. Not a lot of play but still some and a pair of shiny spots I didn't like the looks of as indicating uneven wear. Maybe due to the needle bearing wear. For $10 I'll give it a new one.


Still waiting for those 2 extra bearings, so now I have the all the driveline components modeled too. The 2 control sleeves are yellow. The one on the left locks the front drive sprocket to the main shaft (2-4) and the one on the right switches between locking the main shaft between the input shaft and the planetary carrier (H-L). As shown there it's in 4LO.

The front drive sprocket doesn't have any bearings or replaceable bushings, but under normal driving conditions both should be rotating the same speed anyway. They slip some when you turn and would have very different speeds if you tow with the front wheels lifted. The oil pump would still be delivering oil but the input shaft would still be driving the transmission. I don't know how that oil pump works yet and it's probably why we can't tow the automatics except on a flat bed.

Or lift the front and pull the rear shaft, that would keep the trans safe. A 3D model of the drive shaft stub might make possible a printable plug for easy towing. With good PM (hey, I try ;) ), basic trail spares and tools, and luck (knock on wood) my X has never been towed.

One of the shift forks has a clever looking spring loaded bushing. I haven't made those 3D models yet. Both shift forks I pulled had very little wear showing. The barrel shift cam looks like a fun challenge. Oh, here's the link to all the files:
Released public domain, but no guarantee any of it's perfect. Things like the various spline counts and OEM part numbers in the descriptions should all be correct.

That's it for now. Once the new sleeve bushing, needle, and planetary bearings get here it's just doing everything in reverse, keeping it clean and freshly oiled during assembly, then the special anaerobic sealant. Total cost was right around $200 including the 2 extra bearings, bushing, and fancy not-RTV stuff. This is mostly National bearings and seals from RockAuto except for a few dealer-only parts. (I already have the updated flange and the updated seal for it is pretty cheap.)
 
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