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OK, so this past Sunday I installed my Top Gun Spacer Front Lift & PRG Rear Suspension Lift and I took photos at every step. I know there are already How-to's on this subject, but none with detailed photos. So, here goes....

All the Parts:
PRG Deaver AAL Pack
PRG Shackles
Bilstein 5125's
Top Gun Spacers
New U-bolts


Jack up the rear and support it with Jack Stands on the Frame.


If you haven't previously done, remove the rear Sway Bar.



Start by removing the Stock Shocks.



Next, loosen and remove the U-bolts and remove the Over Leaf on the Leaf Pack. Use a Large C-clamp to retain the tension in the remaining Leaf Pack.


Left Over Crap.


Support the Axel with 2 more Jack Stands now that the Leaf is Free from the Axle. Raise the Axle up and out of the way for the time being. Also, there are 2 Clips that hold the Brake Lines to the Axle and to the Frame on both sides. Loosen the Brake Lines off of those Clips and that should give you enough slack once the Axle drops. Every X is different though, so you may need to extend those Brake Lines!


Ok, add the new PRG AAL and insert the Center Pin facing down and screw it on. Use C-clamps to squeeze the Leafs together if necessary. Now, you may need a 3 degree Shim on top of the Leaf Pack to decrease a possible vibration. The Shims could help you or not. Every X is different, but go ahead and install the Shim, just in case. That being said, I did not install the Shim. D'oh!


Tighten that mother down and you will be left with a lot of extra Center Pin like this.


So, cut it off and leave about 1/2 inch on it.




OK, it's new U-bolts time! Lower the Axle back down and line the Center Pins up with the hole on the Axle. Always use new U-bolts. They're cheap, so don't you be cheap! Use Air Tools to expedite the process. Once again, you'll be left with an extra U-bolt sticking out. Cut them off too... I would have, but the Cutter Blade Broke.




OK, so next is the Shocks. They are easy to install and I trust everyone can do it.




Lastly, it's Shackle time. A Bottle Jack makes life easier to lower the Rear Leaf Pack Mount and help can the new one on. Use a Ratchet Strap to pull the old Shackles out.





Put the new Shackle on, top first. Use the Bottle Jack to lower the Lower Leaf Shackle Mount.

NOTICE: You do not want to strip the Shackle Bolts by using an Air Gun.

Attach that mother and use Hand Tools to tighten.




Left over parts.


Put you Wheels back on, remove all the Jack Stands, lower the X and go see how out your Alignment now is. As soon as you can, go get an Alignment. Firestone offers Lifetime Alignments for $149.

See the difference in stance and height.

Before and After;









That is about it. I ended up with about 2.5 inches of Lift up front and 4 inches in the rear. Any suggestions on other tips, let me know. I am very happy with the PRG Lift. Greg from PRG is a Solid Dude who knows how to handle Customer Service. We called him twice that Sunday and he picked up both times to answer questions. Also, thanks to Steve Thomas for helping me do this Lift!

 

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awesome write up...just in time for me to do mine in the next week or 2. A couple questions though...

1. You didn't use shims? Any vibrations?

2. I thought (based on what i've read on here) that you need to remove the leaf pack, separate it, add the new leafs and then reassemble. It looks like you left the leafs attached to the truck and just added the AAL to the bottom of the pack...is that right?

3. While i'm asking questions...can you jack up the X by the pumpkin? I've been wondering about this.

~Creek
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Although I didn't, I recommend installing the new leaf pack with a 3 degree shim. I don't have any vibrations, but it's a crap shoot whether or not you will.

You just add the new AAL to the bottom of the existing pack after removing the overload leaf.

Yes you can jack up the truck with the pumpkin, just make sure to cover the jack with a cloth or rag so there is no direct metal to metal contact.
 

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Great write-up!

For those you you installing the Deaver AAL, they come with the center bolt installed backwards from the way it needs to be on the X, so make sure you take the bolt out, and flip it over. You want the nut on the BOTTOM of the leafpack, and the round part on the top, so that it can fit into the pad on the axle.
 

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this is an excellent how-to. I think that i might be able to tackle this myself after i go buy some new tools! Thank you!
 

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Sent Greg an email last night to find out pricing and shipping to Vancouver, Canada.
Did you have to extend your break line in the rear? 4" of lift....
SeXterraPA, if I were to tell Greg that I am looking for the same set up as SeXterraPA, would he know who you are by that name?
What did the set up cost you?
How much were the shocks?
Do you recommend the 3"?
Thanks,
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There are 2 little clips that hold your rear break line to the axle and to the frame on both sides. You can release the break line off of those clips and it will give you more slack. Now, that being said, every X is different and some people have to extend their break lines die to a lack of slack. I did not need to extend mine.

I will edit the how to and add that info.
 

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XterraPA - I think you're talking about the ABS or Parking Brake Lines... The Regular Brake Lines are two thick tubes that run down to the Axle in this picture.


They are generally not long enough when you extend the Rear Shocks and could become an issue.... You may want to Jack the X up by the Frame and see how far they become extended as the Rear Suspension Droops.
 

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Great write up Steve.. :cheers:
 

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SeXterraPA said:
No, I think we talking about the same thing. Aren't we?
I don't think we are.....

The Stainless steel lines on mine are the ones I'm talking about... Mine have obviously been replaced with longer lines, yours are black vinyl, or some type of lines.

The lines I have my hand on are the ones I think you are referring to as they have Clips on the Frame and Axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yea, we are talking about the same thing. I loosened them to check the length during full flex. But, it is also smart to loosen those parking/emergency brake lines too.

I had plenty of length left, so I don't believe I'll be extending mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
This lift took almost 10 hours. Now, that being said (which is my favorite phrase right now) we did both the front and rear lift. I also ran into trouble with the top gun spacers shipping without hardware and the hardware having different thread counts. I also stripped a bolt for a shackle, which was also my fault for using an air gun when I should have been using hand tools.

This rear lift should take 5 hours or less. The front and rear should take 7 hours or less. Both are dependent on having a partner to help and air tools to expediate the process.
 

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SeXterraPA said:
This lift took almost 10 hours. Now, that being said (which is my favorite phrase right now) we did both the front and rear lift. I also ran into trouble with the top gun spacers shipping without hardware and the hardware having different thread counts. I also stripped a bolt for a shackle, which was also my fault for using an air gun when I should have been using hand tools.

This rear lift should take 5 hours or less. The front and rear should take 7 hours or less. Both are dependent on having a partner to help and air tools to expediate the process.
The rear took up 5hrs, but that included wasting about an hour trying to figure out which way to mount the shocks, lol, running to the hardware store, taking pictures, cleaning up, and catching the end of the eagles game, so I would imagine it could be done in a lot less time.
 
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