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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Been wanting to do this for awhile now but couldn't find a how-to. Finally got around to figuring it out and doing it today. It was so easy to do I thought I'd share. This mod allows use of the power windows even if the key isn't in the ignition. Nice when you're camping in the X and want to roll up/down the windows without having to climb up front and turning the key to ON.

I don't have pics because if you know where the BCM is, the rest is cake. Here's how:

  1. Locate M20 harness on BCM. It's the one of the three that's hardest to see. Consult service manual page PWC-31.
  2. Unplug harness. This step is optional but a lot easier to work on when you can pull it down some.
  3. Locate the orange wire (pin 68) next to the THICK white wire (pin 70). Pin 68 is the power window power supply and pin 70 is constant positive.
  4. Jump/tap these two wires. I had a constant positive from my Blue Sea fusebox so I used that instead of the thick white wire (pin 70). I used a wire tap on my constant positive, and ran that wire to a wire tap on the orange wire (pin 68).
  5. Plug harness back in.
  6. Done. Roll your windows up or down anytime now! :cheers:
ZheKing Input

Additional Tips and Pics for Reference:
The White Wire is very thick, a 10 Gauge Tap was a struggle to get on. I had to actually strip some of the wire sheathing away to get it on good. I also did on the Orange Wire as well. I put a piece of Red Tape to indicate Hot Wire since apparently I'm out of Red Wire now, go figure.

Harness Unplugged and and T-tapped


T-taps Connected


Harness Plugged back in to BCM
 

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Nice one ~ Thanks for the "How-to" submission!!
 

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This is an awesome idea but as I normally carry dogs in my rig, I won't do it I could just see hoping out somewhere the damn dog trying following me in
 

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I have been wondering why vehicles aren't made like this from factory. at least with a user programmable feature to turn it on or off.
I am wiring up my crank to power window conversion to be powered all the time... it just makes sense. nice how-to!
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks!
Does this leave the buttons illuminated constantly?
I don't think so but I'll check tonight when it gets dark. The behavior shouldn't be different than turning the key to ON.
I stand corrected. I noticed it in the dark. Thanks, steve500, for bringing this up as I don't think I would've seen this until the next camping trip. Bummed about the illumination but I think I'm going to run it as is since I don't anticipate that the amp draw is going to do much to the battery. Any thoughts anyone?

when you say jump/tap these two wires, what exactly do you mean? put them together with a constant positive wire?
Pin 70 (thick white wire) is constant positive so it just needs to be run to pin 68 (orange).
 

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just find the illumination wiring and throw a transistor or relay in-line so it's only powered on ignition. should work just fine and will prevent draining the battery.
you don't want a constant low draw over time it's not great on the battery and i've heard people say it causes terminals to corrode faster
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I guess you could always throw a switch in between the jumpers as well so you can disable that feature under normal use and turn it on when your camping. My only concern would be someone able to pry the window open and push it so the window rolls down, or if you leave a crack open in the window. Could be just my paranoia though.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I wanted to post a follow-up since it's been a year. I ended up running this setup through an OTRATTW toggle switch just in case I ever wanted to disable the functionality but I've never disabled it (go figure). The illumination of the switches hasn't caused any battery drain issues and I sometimes don't drive it for a week or so. You can barely tell the switches are illuminated at night.

The only issue I had was a blown 10A fuse (in the Blue Sea fuse box) when powering two windows simultaneously. I swapped the fuse for a 20A and haven't had any issues since. :wave:
 

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This mod saved me from a major headache. After i did my body lift and welded my sliders on my windows wouldn't work at all. I still have no idea why that is, maybe blew something up in the BCM.. wutev.. The important thing is they work now :rockin: Not only that but having power to the windows at all times is way more convenient than i thought it would be. So far my fuse has held even with operating all 4 windows at the same time (spider hands). So far so good

big cheers to Kingtruc :eek:ccasion5:
 

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Additional pics and tips for reference if @Old Navy or @Mr. Bills want to add to first post so people don't have to scroll all the way through to find them.

The white wire is very thick, a 10 gauge tap was a struggle to get on. I had to actually strip some of the wire sheathing away to get it on good. I also did on the orange wire as well. I put a piece of red tape to indicate hot wire since apparently i'm out of red wire now. go figure.

Harness unplugged and and t-tapped


T-taps connected


Harness plugged back in to BCM
 
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