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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I couldn't find anything about this on the internet, so I decided to figure it out and post it here.

A little background. I did the AT-radiator bypass and installed a supplemental fan to the AT cooler driven by a in-line fluid thermostat that comes on at 185F and shuts off at 160F. What I didn't realize was that the fan would keep on running long after the X was off, potentially killing my battery. So I needed to power the fan from a place that would have enough juice and would only come on when the truck was running.

It was important to have this on the ignition so you can still stop, listen to radio and don't kill your battery.

I couldn't get power from the fuse box bc I didn't like the idea of running that wire for that long of a distance.

my solution was to add another relay, so I can get a lot of juice from the battery, and connect to relay to a line that I found was only powered when the truck is running. I didn't want to over load this line, so that is why i went the relay route.

So this is what I did

first locate the secondary relay box under the hood. and remove the cover by unclipping it where the arrows point


once in there you can see our target, the small fuse module towards the engine side. to get access to all its goodness we need to remove the armature, this one is a little tricky. there are two clips to the outside front and then two small clips in the middle . i highlighted the inside clips, the arrows show you the direction they unclip



once you remove the armature and pull the fuse module you need to get access to the connector. for that first remove the white plastic to the side using a flat head screw driver. you will need to remove some of the relays and their bases to get full access. i would post pictures but I forgot to take them.




this is what the little clip looks like


to pull the connector we still have two more pins to get out of the way as we pull the yellow cord out



now we need to add our line that will trigger our relay. I found it easy to just crimp my wire to the existing curves in the connector.


this is a picture of the relay I used. I had this extra one from a towing kit lights install. 25230-19917 I think this is rated at 20 amps but I am not 100% sure


this is how i wired it.


I had to carefully cut a bigger hole for my wires. be very careful


now put the fuse block back together and feed your cables thought the newly expanded hole


now put the armature back and connect your new wires. I did not have any other color wire so to mark my ground I wrapped it in tape.
this works for me for the mean time but i recommend using black or any other color as long as you know it is for the ground


This sort of shows you what's going on electrically



I have an inline fuse that I forgot to take a picture of. ALWAYS use a fuse to protect your X
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks I think i posted it on the wrong thread, maybe an admin can move it to the how to's?
 

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The center console one is switche don my '11. Sadly the dash was always on so I added a second switched one. That is one thing I loved about my Subary lights off, outlets off with key.



Recently, on a business trip, I had a rental car. Now, in my car, all of my 12V power outlets are always on. On the rental car, some of them were always on, some of them were only on when the car was on.
http://www.launch-x431-diagun.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So it has been about 2 weeks since I did this and I am very happy to inform that everything works great.

The fan for the bypassed AT cooler comes on when temperature reaches 185° F and fan turns off when I shut off the X. Couldn't be happier with this set up
 
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