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Changed my fluid today and the light went away shortly after. Fluid is a tiny bit greenish and cloudy, not terribly so.

Hope it stays fixed. Breather looks good at the axle, but I didn't pull the taillight off to check that yet.
4 days later... same flickering light. I've been letting my gear oil sit and there's some water separating out.

Now I fear my breather tube is full of water. I haven't seen any heavy rain or water crossings since changing the fluid :angry5:
 

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Can someone enlighten me as to the use case for the override and engagement of the locker in 4WD Hi?
It's free.
2wd + locker + snow = fun.

Not really any other good reason. 2wd + locker isn't really helpful in low traction situations.
 

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All (18) Photos placed into PB's Purgatory, have been Resurrected for this Thread! :thumbup:
 

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Thanks for fixing the photos! I just did this mod and the pictures helped A LOT

Sent from my SM-N920W8 using Tapatalk
 

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so if I was looking for one of these DLCU's in a junkyard, which vehicles would be common enough to have the same unit? I have a 2012 Xterra P4X and I was thinking common vehicles might be xterras (any year, Offroad or P4X), Frontiers (same models) and Titans (same models).

Are there any other models I should include to search?

Are there any trim lines that would have this module that I haven't listed?

Finally, I've seen reference to a module that goes by 28496 EA31A. I've heard one person say they used that to do the bypass but online it is usually listed as an airbag controller. Any thoughts on this? Will it work?

TIA

Stockhardcore Xterra (Paul)
 

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UPDATE: The 28496 EA31A controller will work. I think its the same part but for a Frontier. I got mine off The Bay for $35 plus shipping. did the mod to the module. put it back together and slapped it up under the dash with some zip ties. Didn't even take the panels off. Left the old one in too so I can swap back and forth in about 60 sec if needed. When I hit the button the Diff Lock Lit right up so for now I'm assuming that it is locking the diff but won't know for sure till I take it wheelin somewhere.

Just a warning to you Monkey shade mechanics. Its tough to get in there and solder these pins neatly. I thought myself a not so horrible solderer (and still do in circumstances) but its tight quarters and the plastic plug tends to start letting go of the pins if your not quick with the heat and tinning. Some flux and even a jewelers file to make your solder spot super clean does wonders and even then mine looks like a rank beginner. But there are no cold joints and no bridging where not desired so it works.

Enjoy!!
 

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Hi Guys,

I did this mod a couple years ago on my 2012 P4X 6Spd and loved it.
I sourced a DCLU module from a junk yard, modded it and installed it in my X.

Had a blast in the snow/wet and never had any issues.

I forgot to swap it out when I traded the X in a couple weeks ago.
I have my original DCLU module, unmodded for sale.

Text me and ill get it put in the mail.
40 bucks plus shipping. (what I paid for the other unit)

504-256-5366
Frank
 

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The plunger-sensor (which detects whether or not diff is locked) in my rear diff is out of alignment again, so when my rear E-locker is on, the light flashes 100% of the time and never goes solid.

I'm wondering if I did this mod - will the light be solid with the switch on (regardless of whether the diff is actually locked) and the light stays off with the switch off (regardless of whether the diff is actually UNlocked)?

I basically want my dash light to behave like an indicator light for switch position, but I'm worried this may not work because of my plunger sensor being wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #172
The plunger-sensor (which detects whether or not diff is locked) in my rear diff is out of alignment again, so when my rear E-locker is on, the light flashes 100% of the time and never goes solid.

I'm wondering if I did this mod - will the light be solid with the switch on (regardless of whether the diff is actually locked) and the light stays off with the switch off (regardless of whether the diff is actually UNlocked)?

I basically want my dash light to behave like an indicator light for switch position, but I'm worried this may not work because of my plunger sensor being wrong.
The mod won't cure your indication issue. All that I suspect will happen is that you will have an engaged locker without indication due to the position switch in the diff being stuck in the non engaged position.
 

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The mod won't cure your indication issue. All that I suspect will happen is that you will have an engaged locker without indication due to the position switch in the diff being stuck in the non engaged position.
damn... that is annoying. Alright thanks.

I wonder if there is a way to rewire it how I wanted. I just want the dash light to come on when the switch is on whether or not it is actually locked.
 

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For what it's worth, I followed the DLCU module (not the wiring) modification as posted in this thread and it works perfectly, but the indicator light does not come on. I confirmed engagement of the lock by electrical checks in all conditions of transfer case but the light is clearly no longer in the circuit. I am not sure how some people seem to say the light still works after the mod and others don't. The light is either still part of the circuit or it isn't. I have no idea in the case of the wiring mod but I doubt it's different in any way. In my case, I also did a gear swap so I had the whole diff apart and had to replace the feedback switch (broke by stupid mistake during pinion install) as well the internal solenoid connector where it had fused to the case and broke on disassembly. So I knew I had everything in position on the re-assembly.
If you don't have the light working and want to test, you can check signal to the solenoid with a voltmeter simply looking for battery voltage at the harness terminals when the switch is on and check the lock engagement by looking for continuity on the feedback switch connector when the switch is on and open circuit when the switch is off (you obviously have to reconnect the solenoid for this step). I suppose you might have to move though some gears fwd, rev and neutral if the latter test fails at first, just to make sure it is in a free position to engage (this is the cause for the blinking light followed by solid indication on a stock DLCU).
Anyhow, I will search for a method to restore the indication. Worst case you could bypass everything and give the light its own circuit through the feedback switch on the diff.
 

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Worst case you could bypass everything and give the light its own circuit through the feedback switch on the diff.
I was wanting to just tie the light to the switch itself. If it is not gonna work as intended, I just want it to turn on when the switch is on.
 

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My light problem turned out to be a bent pin #20. But I figured a few things out along with way with wiring diagrams in the manual. First, there are two warning/indicator lights that don't come on in test mode when turning the key to "ON" = this differential lock indicator and the ATP light (automatic transmission park failure). So if you just want to test and make sure the differential lock light is functional just short the harness terminal 21 to ground with the key "on" and it should light. As far as the mod goes, the pin 9 to pin 12 jumper allows mode switch position on to send power directly to the lock solenoid (full bypass of all circuitry. The 3-11 jumper completes the solenoid circuit to ground. The 1-22 jumper just sends power back to the mode switch "off" pin. This appears to be a useless step, but I didn't cut it to see what would happen without it. The 20 to 21 jumper is indeed a full bypass from the light wiring through the feedback switch in the diff to ground. These are the smallest pins that get soldered, side by side, so the highest risk of softening the plastic from the heat especially if done right after the other. I remember checking things after the first plug-in but obviously missed the bent pin. I didn't find it until I finally stopped laying upside down and just took the unit out again. I know this is a really old mod but for anyone still doing it, it's easy and straightforward and I would recommend just doing the wiring mod version. Enjoy...
 

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Discussion Starter #178
@WCoyote

From the mod wiring diagram

"Jumper Pin 22 Green connector side to splice into Pin 1 White w/ Green. Power into Pin 22 tells the DLCU that the selector switch is always in the off position"
 

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Discussion Starter #180
Ok, interesting. But why? The DLCU is fully bypassed at that point. Just to fake out the CAN comms?
I will answer this with "most probably". :smile: I wrote this mod in 2008. If I pulled the Nissan prints out and re traced everything I might give you a definitive answer. With an aviation background, the intent of the mod was for the CAN system to sense unlocked and unselected at all times and to prevent warning lights associated with the locker being used out of the DLCU's factory parameter.
 
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