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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've had few people inquire about this so this will be a short write up....I didn't document every single step into this but its pretty much easy to figure it all out.

First: I followed XJ-TERRA's thread for the fuseblock/wiring so that is covered.

But there's one thing I did that was different from this write up, I used a BlueSea 100A circuit breaker instead of a fuse:

Second: Relays....I didn't like the idea of having to pull the radio console section out everytime to replace a relay or add a new relay so I did this route:

You'll need a uni-strut "L" Shaped and you will have to cut it to make it fit between the frame 2 supports under the steering wheel column just behind the knee panel.

Not great pics but that should help you get a better idea of how it is mounted:

See how its bolted to the supports using the existing holes...I only had to widen one hole on the uni-strut...easy fix.

Laying on the driver's floormat looking straight up under the steering column, this is what you'll see.

The relays are mounted to the holes on the uni-struts with a screw/nut....easy to access and remove to replace if needed. Sorry, no pic but will get one if you need it, just speak up.

Third: The switchbox

This is how I did this for mounting the switchbox to the gear console cubby pocket and how I ran the wires though to the switch.

First, you pop out the cupholder part...just grab an edge and pull....easy to pop out and put that aside.
Second, grab an edge of the plastic around the shifter (AT models) and pull up gently and run your fingers across the edges to pop the rest out and once you do, take it out and you will have to drill about 1" - 1 1/2" inch hole on the corner edge of the pocket:

Fourth: While you have that console piece out, its a good time to drill two holes into the edge closest to the shifter for the mounts. I just bought these mounts from Amazon for cheap ( and removed the middle piece since that was not needed BUT do not discard that! You will use it to mount it inside the console piece to use it as a brace. See Pics:

Middle part used under the console piece:

This is a mockup of what it looks like once done:

In this pic, you can see how the wires are running out of that hole and directly into the switch:

This is the finished result:



1) I strongly recommend you run all 5 wires to the switch even if you don't use them all and leave the ends accessible under the dash is a royal PITA to pull the cupholder/shifter pieces out every time to install a new switch. If you have all those wires prewired to the switch and all you need is the ends to hook up to whatever accessory you want it for, its much easier.

2) I have the accessories wired directly to the aux fuseblock so with a flip of a circuit breaker switch in the engine bay, it is easily turned off/on.

3) Code 3 Rockerpak is the name of the switchbox, however, it is very hard to find, I just lucked out on a guy getting rid of surplus inventory and I wasn't 100% sure that the OTRATTW switches would be a direct fit, but it is so no cutting/widening/etc so I was happy. Use Ebay to find your switchbox, however, I am not guaranteeing that the other models will be OTRATTW compatible so that is your call on that one. I used "Police switchbox" on Ebay search engine.

4) I used one wire and ran it to the radio fuse on the passenger side with a 10A add-a-fuse and jumpered the rest of the switches behind the switchbox (add a fuse wire to switch 1 positive then switch 2 positive to switch 3 positive to switch 4 positive to switch 5 positive) (Same for negative) for the upper switch light to come on whenever the truck is running. The lower light is when you are using an accessory so when you push it to use it, the lower light will come on.

I think this completes this write up....if you all need more pic or have questions, feel free to post up.
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