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I know there have been a couple of How-to's written on basically the same topic, but none of them seemed to cover some things I ran into with my install, so I thought that I would write up my own. I hope someone finds it useful.

Essentially, I am trying to write up the instructions that Volant SHOULD have included.

This is for reference only. Use them at your own discretion and risk. Don't blame me if the whole thing goes sideways.

1- Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable. If you can't figure this out, Stop Now. You should not attempt this on your own.

2- Remove the two screws holding the MAF to the Factory Intake. I should have taken a better pic of this. Here is a pic of the MAF already removed. It is the small silver rectangle connected to a Cable at the lower right of the picture. Two screws hold it in place.

MAF Removed:


2a- Remove the factory MAF Gasket. It is around that back part of the MAF where the metal part meets the plastic part:


The Gasket looks like this, the rectangle right above the Volant Logo:


3- Remove the two bolts holding the Factory Engine Cover and pull straight up to remove the cover from the Engine. Interestingly, I don't have a Factory Engine Cover. I haven't verified this yet, but I read somewhere that the 2011 Pro-4X does not have one. Hence, no picture.

4- Remove two bolts holding Resonator Box in place:


The Resonator Box is the thing with the big Nissan Burger on it:



5- Using Pliers, remove the Clamp holding the Breather Hose onto the Duct into the Resonator Box. Pull, (wiggle), the hose until it comes off:


6- Remove the Clamps holding the Duct to the Throttle Body and to the Air Box, in the picture the two Clamps to the right of and left of the Resonator Box:


6a- Remove the Resonator Box and Piping from the Engine compartment:


6b- This leaves your Throttle Body open to the elements:


I suggest you cover it with something to keep crap out of it:


7- Take the top Cover off the Air Box:


Don't forget to detach the Hose that is attached to it:


7a- Take the rear bolt off the Stock Air Box, (outside the Air Box, in back, by the ABS/VDC Actuator(?) - Not sure that is the right name for it):


7b- Take out the Filter:


7c- Take out the Horns, (picture came out blurry, sorry). This will make Step 7d much easier and you will need to relocate them with this particular Intake anyway... Won't fit:


7d- Remove this PITA bolt on the front of the Air Box:


7e- Remove the last bolt, (inside the Air Box... repeat pic):


7f- Pull out the bottom half of the Air Box:


Check out the Hole in the Fender:


8- I chose to relocate my Horns here:


Just behind the Grille. I straightened out the Factory Horn Bracket and used a Rubber Bushing that I stole off the Resonator Box to take up space where I Mounted it. I forgot to take pics and wasn't going to take the Grill off again for pics. Sorry, these are the best I got:



9- Attach the Foam Ring around the rectangle Intake hole, (the part that mates to the Fender hole I showed above). I also forgot a pic of this. You get what you pay for. :)

10- Place the Air Box into the Engine compartment and realize that it doesn't quite fit with the Brake Lines coming of the ABS/VDC Unit:


11- Cut a big ass hole in the back of your brand new Intake, (to the left of the bolt), so the Brake Lines don't have to get bent:


I haven't figured out what, yet, but I will eventually find some way to close that hole up. Hoping to find some kind of Grommet maybe. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

12- NOW you can fit the Air Box in. Insert and tighten the middle bolt, (inside the box), first. Then tighten the back one, (also inside the box). I still haven't installed the third bolt... Need to buy a longer one. The one Volant provided didn't reach. The Box is secure with just two. If I can't get the third bolt in right, I will plug the third, (front), hole and call it a day.

13- Attach the Rubber Hose with the bulge in it to the Air Box, (see pic above). Just tighten the Clamp enough to hold it on. It's easier to fit everything together if you don't tighten everything yet.

14- Attach the Non-bulge Rubber Hose to the end of the Plastic Pipe with the bend in it. Put the remaining two Clamps on the Plastic Pipe on their respective ends so you don't install the Pipe and THEN remember you need those Clamps on it:


14a- Fit the Rubber Hose over the Throttle Body opening:


15- Then do the other end at the Air Box:


16- Once everything is in place and fits right, tighten up the Hose Clamps:



17- Fit the Stubby Hose that came with the Volant onto the Plastic Mating Fitting:


Attach it to the Intake Pipe, (repeat pic):


When I attached the Factory Breather Hose and realize that Volant didn't give you Clamps for their stuff. More for the to-do list:


18- Put on the Volant-supplied MAF Gasket. Install the MAF using the screws supplied. The factory screws don't work... Not a great pic but this is pretty easy:


19- Make sure the inside of the Air Box is relatively clean and totally free of debris. Especially after you hacked a hole in the back. Install the Air Filter in the Air Box:


20- Curse again that you had to do this:


21- Remove the Plastic Film from the Air Box Cover. Install the Shiny Cover for the Air Box:


22- Step back and admire your work:


23- Fire up the Engine and take her for a Test Drive. My VDC Light was on for about a Mile or so of driving. This is normal after you have disconnected the Battery. I had no other lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
My First Impressions:

I can't really say that the truck feel more powerful with this installed. The throttle response does seem slightly better. The sound at idle and light throttle isn't much louder than stock. The sucking/whistle sound when you get on the throttle is noticeable but not too loud. Under WOT (or heavy throttle) the intake gets LOUD. I'm new to the VQ40DE but I suspect this is when the variable valve timing (whatever nissan calls it) kicks in. Also, it could be a placebo effect, but it does seem to pull a bit harder under this condition. Either way, it sounds sweet when you romp on it. :)
 

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Looks good. I wasn't a fan of how empty the Engine Bay looked after installing the Volant so I decided to add the Resonator Piece back in.


I drove it for 6 Months before adding the Resonator and honestly couldn't tell a difference in Sound, Power, or MPG.
 

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Yep, I chopped the Volant tube. I can measure the exact length tomorrow if you would like to help eliminate any guessing. There was absolutely no change to the sound or power from one setup to the next.
 

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thought about doing the same thing... does look better that way.. best of both!! and for b00ster, why did you have to cut in intake box?
 

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thought about doing the same thing... does look better that way.. best of both!! and for b00ster, why did you have to cut in intake box?
The lines coming out of the ABS/VDC actuator were in the way. I could have forced the airbox in but I didn't want to have it putting pressure on those lines constantly. I could have redrilled the holes to mount the airbox further forward but that seemed to be more work in the long run (getting the alignment right, filling the old holes). I tried doing a "melt mod" but since I had to bend the plastic on a corner it was very stubborn and I likely would have put a hole through it anyway. So, I cut it. :)
 

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The lines coming out of the ABS/VDC actuator were in the way. I could have forced the airbox in but I didn't want to have it putting pressure on those lines constantly. I could have redrilled the holes to mount the airbox further forward but that seemed to be more work in the long run (getting the alignment right, filling the old holes). I tried doing a "melt mod" but since I had to bend the plastic on a corner it was very stubborn and I likely would have put a hole through it anyway. So, I cut it. :)
I just installed mine in a 2009 those hard lines were in the way but I bent them slightly (probably high risk) by hand and enlarged the Volant box mounting holes since they didn't quite align up anyway to avoid cutting a hole in the side of the new air box.
 

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well yeah there is a cutout for the horns so one doesn't have to relocate them-really wish they wouldn't have done that. i didn't have an issue with the hard lines for the abs/vdc, but the box butts right up to them.

thinking about creating the hybrid and putting the resonator back in because no one wants to buy my stock intake!
 

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I have the Volant on my 2010 OR, did not have to cut for lines, maybe they changed the design, anyhow if they still have the open hole in the base of the box you can go to Lowes in the plumbing section and find a plug for that. It is about a 2" hole, I think this was for the "ram air" option that they were thinking about, not a very good idea for off roading. If you plan on a snorkel you may want to plug those holes.

Nice write-up

jeromy6
 

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Volant 12740

I would like to share my experience with installing the Volant 12740 on 2015 Xterra 4x4 S.

The most labor intensive part war relocating horns and extending horn wires. The actual installation of the COA was easy. Surprisingly, everything fit well (no cutting or bending was required).
The car rides fine, although I have only put about 50 miles since the install. If there are changes, these are subtle. When I have swapped for the MagnaFlow 12580 muffler the difference was noticeable right from the start.

Cheers,

Jarek
 

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Volant 12740

I would like to share my experience with installing the Volant 12740 on 2015 Xterra 4x4 S.

The most labor intensive part war relocating horns and extending horn wires. The actual installation of the COA was easy. Surprisingly, everything fit well (no cutting or bending was required).
The car rides fine, although I have only put about 50 miles since the install. If there are changes, these are subtle. When I have swapped for the MagnaFlow 12580 muffler the difference was noticeable right from the start.

Cheers,

Jarek
Thats good to know...I want to install this on my 2014 X...and was concerned about the brake lines being in the way...relocating the horns is not such a big deal..cheers!
 
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