Well, I broke down and did the Valley hitch install today. While the installation was quite easy and the instructions were good, I have created the following write up.
Tools:
1/2" Drive
3/8" Drive
1/2" Extension
3/8" Extension
1/2" Torque Wrench
2-1/8" Metal Hole Saw
19mm socket
17mm socket
12mm socket
HD Drill
Parts to Order:
Note: There are many suppliers for these parts. The supplier I chose is indicated in parentheses.
Nissan OEM wiring harness (yournissanparts.com)
Valley Class 5 Receiver Hitch (etrailer.com)
Depending on what you are towing, you'll need a ball mount, ball and hitch pin. I chose the following:
Master lock height adjustable 2" ball mount (etrailer.com)
Master lock no spin 2" hitch ball (etrailer.com)
Locking no rattle hitch pin (etrailer.com)
7 pin (blade contacts) adapter to 4 pin flat
I started with the Nissan Trailer wiring harness. The directions for connecting the wiring is simple. There are two connectors located near the bumper on the left rear frame rail. You must remove the dummy plugs and connect the new harness.
The length of the harness permits mounting on the OEM hitch or mounting in the rear bumper. There are two to three relays to be mounted inside the vehicle behind the right front passenger's kick panel. Again this is covered in the directions from Nissan.
Some aftermarket wiring harnesses do not include these relays. The wiring will not work without the relays. The Nissan harness comes with relays. It also includes mounting hardware and an assortment of zipties etc.
I chose to mount the harness plug directly above the license plate light next to the license plate.
Most installations I have seen mount the plug in the driver's side of the license plate on the flat part of the bumper. The location I chose requires a bit more precision in drilling.
I started by center punching for a hole 2-1/8" above the license plate marker light. I removed the light from the bumper (keeps it from being scratched) then drilled the 2-1/8" hole. Drilling this hole with a 2-1/8" hole saw gives 1/16" clearance between the plug and license plate light. Carefully paint the exposed metal. Reinstall the light when finished.
I disconnected the plug from the harness then trimmed all the extra plastic from around the back side of the plug.
It is important to plan on mounting the plug so the cover hinge is toward the top. Once the plastic is trimmed off, the plug can be test fitted in the hole. It should be a tight fit to get the plug installed. I had to do some extra filing to get the plug through the hole. Once through, there was enough play for the bottom of the plug to touch the license plate light. Holding the plug in this position, I center-punched one of the holes. I drilled the hole with a bit the side of the hole in the plug. I repeated on the other side, using one of the supplied bolts to hold the plug in place while I center-punched the other. With both drilled, I applied locktite to the bolts and mounted the plug. For now, leave the harness hanging free behind the bumper.
Mounting the Hitch:
The mounting the hitch is easy. Nissan provides illustrated directions.
First, start by lowering and removing the spare tire. Then loosen the two lower bumper bracket bolts on each side.
Notice my version of an impact wrench. I apologize for the un-manicured toe nails. Security at Heathrow confiscated my clippers last week.
Thread the bolts provided for the hitch into their respective holes to ensure the bolts thread smoothly.
The threaded captive nuts are built into the frame. Remove the bolts when you are sure they thread with no problems. Some folks have reported having to chase the threads with a tap. I had no issues.
Next the directions call for removing the bracket holding the exhaust in place. While I did this, I do not think its necessary.
I was able to slide the hitch in without displacing the exhaust.
Now is time to position the hitch in place. Having an extra set of hands here would be helpful, but I mounted the hitch myself. I gathered the bolts, placed the hitch on my knees and slid under the vehicle. I started by positioning the passenger side of the hitch in place by slipping it over the exhaust. I then slid the driver's side into place and started the forward most bolts on both sides. I then rotated the hitch into place and installed the remainder of the bolts. Many folks have indicated trouble getting the bolts started on some hitches. I had no difficulties and managed to get the bolts mostly tightened by hand.
The Nissan and Valley hitches (both manufactured by Valley) fit the best. Other hitches don't always fit perfectly.
Once in place, there is a slight amount of adjustability, allowing the hitch to be snugged up against the bumper. I left about 1/16" between the hitch and bumper to avoid vibrations.
I then tightened all the bolts to the recommended 75lb.ft. using a torque wrench.
Remount the exhaust hanger and put the spare back. Once the spare is in place, you are done.
Some folks have stated that they need to bend the exhaust to avoid it from contacting the hitch. I had no issues with about an inch of clearance all around. I'm assuming this is an issue with other hitch manufacturers.
Here it is with the Master Lock height adjustable ball mount.
I shortened the ball mount as the receiver in the hitch is fairly short. I cut about 4" off the ball mount and re-drilled the hitch pin hole so the ball mount is as tight as possible to the hitch. This reduces the leverage that the trailer has on the rear suspension.
Overall, its an easy and worthwhile mod.
-Old Army
Tools:
1/2" Drive
3/8" Drive
1/2" Extension
3/8" Extension
1/2" Torque Wrench
2-1/8" Metal Hole Saw
19mm socket
17mm socket
12mm socket
HD Drill
Parts to Order:
Note: There are many suppliers for these parts. The supplier I chose is indicated in parentheses.
Nissan OEM wiring harness (yournissanparts.com)
Valley Class 5 Receiver Hitch (etrailer.com)
Depending on what you are towing, you'll need a ball mount, ball and hitch pin. I chose the following:
Master lock height adjustable 2" ball mount (etrailer.com)
Master lock no spin 2" hitch ball (etrailer.com)
Locking no rattle hitch pin (etrailer.com)
7 pin (blade contacts) adapter to 4 pin flat
I started with the Nissan Trailer wiring harness. The directions for connecting the wiring is simple. There are two connectors located near the bumper on the left rear frame rail. You must remove the dummy plugs and connect the new harness.

The length of the harness permits mounting on the OEM hitch or mounting in the rear bumper. There are two to three relays to be mounted inside the vehicle behind the right front passenger's kick panel. Again this is covered in the directions from Nissan.
Some aftermarket wiring harnesses do not include these relays. The wiring will not work without the relays. The Nissan harness comes with relays. It also includes mounting hardware and an assortment of zipties etc.
I chose to mount the harness plug directly above the license plate light next to the license plate.

Most installations I have seen mount the plug in the driver's side of the license plate on the flat part of the bumper. The location I chose requires a bit more precision in drilling.
I started by center punching for a hole 2-1/8" above the license plate marker light. I removed the light from the bumper (keeps it from being scratched) then drilled the 2-1/8" hole. Drilling this hole with a 2-1/8" hole saw gives 1/16" clearance between the plug and license plate light. Carefully paint the exposed metal. Reinstall the light when finished.
I disconnected the plug from the harness then trimmed all the extra plastic from around the back side of the plug.
It is important to plan on mounting the plug so the cover hinge is toward the top. Once the plastic is trimmed off, the plug can be test fitted in the hole. It should be a tight fit to get the plug installed. I had to do some extra filing to get the plug through the hole. Once through, there was enough play for the bottom of the plug to touch the license plate light. Holding the plug in this position, I center-punched one of the holes. I drilled the hole with a bit the side of the hole in the plug. I repeated on the other side, using one of the supplied bolts to hold the plug in place while I center-punched the other. With both drilled, I applied locktite to the bolts and mounted the plug. For now, leave the harness hanging free behind the bumper.
Mounting the Hitch:
The mounting the hitch is easy. Nissan provides illustrated directions.
First, start by lowering and removing the spare tire. Then loosen the two lower bumper bracket bolts on each side.


Notice my version of an impact wrench. I apologize for the un-manicured toe nails. Security at Heathrow confiscated my clippers last week.
Thread the bolts provided for the hitch into their respective holes to ensure the bolts thread smoothly.

The threaded captive nuts are built into the frame. Remove the bolts when you are sure they thread with no problems. Some folks have reported having to chase the threads with a tap. I had no issues.
Next the directions call for removing the bracket holding the exhaust in place. While I did this, I do not think its necessary.

I was able to slide the hitch in without displacing the exhaust.
Now is time to position the hitch in place. Having an extra set of hands here would be helpful, but I mounted the hitch myself. I gathered the bolts, placed the hitch on my knees and slid under the vehicle. I started by positioning the passenger side of the hitch in place by slipping it over the exhaust. I then slid the driver's side into place and started the forward most bolts on both sides. I then rotated the hitch into place and installed the remainder of the bolts. Many folks have indicated trouble getting the bolts started on some hitches. I had no difficulties and managed to get the bolts mostly tightened by hand.

The Nissan and Valley hitches (both manufactured by Valley) fit the best. Other hitches don't always fit perfectly.
Once in place, there is a slight amount of adjustability, allowing the hitch to be snugged up against the bumper. I left about 1/16" between the hitch and bumper to avoid vibrations.

I then tightened all the bolts to the recommended 75lb.ft. using a torque wrench.

Remount the exhaust hanger and put the spare back. Once the spare is in place, you are done.

Some folks have stated that they need to bend the exhaust to avoid it from contacting the hitch. I had no issues with about an inch of clearance all around. I'm assuming this is an issue with other hitch manufacturers.

Here it is with the Master Lock height adjustable ball mount.

I shortened the ball mount as the receiver in the hitch is fairly short. I cut about 4" off the ball mount and re-drilled the hitch pin hole so the ball mount is as tight as possible to the hitch. This reduces the leverage that the trailer has on the rear suspension.
Overall, its an easy and worthwhile mod.
-Old Army