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I did not see this in the How To section and wasn't sure if any one else wrote it up. Hopefully I didn't forget anything..

Dealership rear brake job=$265.00+tx New pads $40.89+tax=44.82 Less then an hour to complete=priceless
So as you read, my rear brakes are done. Very easy to do. God I love having pads on all 4's
A little write up for all who have 05's or newer.
* Lift truck and take tire off (duh) Use safety jacks.
* There are 2 14mm bolts holding on the caliper. if using hand tools, you will need to hold the back nut as well. (17mm or 18mm, i forget)(finger pointing in pic)

* Remove caliper by lifting away from rotor

* Squeeze in the caliper using a C-clamp or something similar. rest in a secure spot. Leaf spring is what I used. Don't hang by brake line!
* Remove old pads by sliding out and away from rotor. Compare old to new pads. WOW 31,942 miles on old.

(old on left in case you were wondering) lol
* Remove and replace shims on pads and on the caliper mount. be sure to do one at a time so you can keep track on what pad they go to..I reused mine as to save some $$ as they were in fine shape. just cleaned the mud off of everything before reassembly. lol
* I add a little no squeak to the spot where the caliper piston touches the shim and where ever the metal contacts metal.
* The pads slide in the same way they came out.
* Replace the caliper. It will slide right on unless the piston is not all the way in.
* Tighten to spec.
* Repeat on other side
* Put wheel back on
* Pump brake pressure back up.
* :cheers: You are done :thumbright:
Sorry for lack of pics. Camera is a POS and died.
 

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My rears were worse at 33K.

Pretty accurate how-to. It's so easy, even a caveman can do it!

BTW, the Bendix brakes I bought came with all the spacers and clips.
 

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Instead of taking the Caliper all the way off, losten the top bolt, and remove the bottom. The rotate the caliper up... the top bolt will hold the caliper... My two cents on brakes.
 

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Thanks for the write-up! I have stillen cross drilled rotors and metal matrix pads on the way, but my brakes were horrible so I replaced the rear pads w/ some cheap $25 pads til the stillen stuff comes in. I honestly cant believe it got this bad @ 30k miles.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I realized I could have left the lower bolt on and rotated the caliper up. Of course it was after I took it all the way off. lol
Its unbelievable that the pads only last that long. I guess we were spoiled by shoes for so long... I guess by the wear the brakes are being used pretty evenly. Not like the old trucks that use 70% braking on front pads alone.
My fronts are cross-drilled and I will eventually do the rears when the rotors need to be replaced..
 

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Is the process for changing the front brakes the same as the rear?
Also, I'm I correct in believing that this is a relatively simple take off old pads / put on new pads process?

-T
 

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sleepyt said:
Is the process for changing the front brakes the same as the rear?
Also, I'm I correct in believing that this is a relatively simple take off old pads / put on new pads process?

-T

I had a tough time with my front passenger brake. The stupid metal clips where bent and made it tough to get in. The brakes in the next gen don't swing on one bolt like the 1st gen X's.
 

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I did my fronts at 25K and they were shot, but a majority of my driving is stop and go city stuff.
 

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i have 4800 miles on my car and i brought it in because the brakes are squeaking like crazy and they found that the pads were shot already and i dont get on my brakes at all and they charged me $430. does this seem obsured to anyone else? i dont even have 5000 miles!!
 

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Yeah, something sounds wrong there. Shouldn't that be covered under the 12K warranty they give you? I know things like alignment and tires are covered, I would think brakes would be too.

That and the fact that the pads cost $45 and it would take less than an hour to change them, so they even ripped you off in the money department.
 

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thats what i thought. they claimed that it was because i went off road and there was apparently mud in the calipers but idk cause i cleaned them out with a powerwasher.
 

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I wheel all the time and in the North East you can't avoid mud and sure mine wore out faster than I think they should have, but they lasted 6 times longer than yours.
 

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ok thanks thats good to know
 

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how about the emergency/parking brakes? how hard are those to swap out? i ask because my GF, well, ex-GF drove 10 miles with the parking brake partially on and i tried adjusting inside the console but it isn't quite enuf...


thanks..
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
60,059 miles and replacing the rear pads again...
 

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my oem brakes lasted me to 74k... dealer was shocked how i still had close to 40% left..... i baby my truck... anyhow what about the glue that assist to locking brake pad in place????? when i turned my rotors about 2 months ago i began to hear a clink coming from the front pads being loose...... the brake guy had not put that glue stuff to the pad to lock it in place aside from the clips....
 

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got new rear pads and rotors at 20,000 miles, covered under waranty due to them replacing the rear end....
think ill do the fronts soon
 
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